Question about 2001 Saturn SW

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Where is the radiator cap located on 2001 Saturn SW2?

Where is the radiator cap located? radiator has small leak - trying to add ''stop leak'' but can not see an actual radiator cap - only the overflow tank - help!

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Your system does not have a cap on the radiator. It is a 'sealed system' with the reservoir holding pressure. This is not so much an 'overflow' tank like some systems, but an expansion tank.

You can add the stop leak directly into the tank.

Posted on Feb 06, 2010

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1 Answer

Radiator cap on saturn vue


First thing to try might be some "radiator stop leak".
I should recommend you buy the more expensive you can find, rather than the cheapest.
"Bar's Leak - aluminum" might work.
I have bought many containers, and find cheap usually means ineffective.
If that does not fix the leak, see if you can find a low pressure radiator cap, like about 4# pressure.
I am not sure anyone will know what you are talking about. Sorry.
In the old days, another solution would have been to remove the rubber ring on the radiator cap, which does not allow the pressure to build up.
Downside is, you must constantly watch the coolant level of the radiator ( Daily or more often) so you do not run out and destroy the engine.
God bless your efforts.












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Oct 15, 2015 | 2009 Saturn VUE

1 Answer

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Did you replace the bulbs? Did you replace the turn signal assembly inside the steering wheel ?

Jul 26, 2014 | 2000 Saturn SW2

1 Answer

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Physically look in the radiator under the cap(if one exsist's) when cool, for coolant level, and check the valve in the cap for sticking. If air is present in the radiator it can't get out, and more coolant can't get in,(from the overflow). Either clean the cap or replace it and check that it is the CORRECT cap.

If radiator is low on coolant fill it to overflowing, replace cap, and check that coolant overflow is filled to the COLD line or mark. The overflow is normally where you would add coolant. (never overfill the overflow)After refilling as outlined above, check the level every morning for 2 or 3 days until coolant level stops dropping below the cold mark and add coolant to the overflow ONLY. Do not open the radiator cap. Also, if you have even a tiny coolant leak anywhere in the system, air will get drawn in, instead of coolant from the overflow.

For more OVERHEATING PROBLEMS try these...
Radiator fins dirty, clean with a strong stream of water, not high pressure water.
Radiator clogged, try backflushing it, or replace.
Thermostat stuck open or shut, replace it. Or installed BACKWARDS.
Water pump worn out, can no longer move enough coolant, replace it.
Fan shroud broken or missing....
Electric Fan(s) not working, Check the fan, relay, fuse and engine temperature sensor's.
Belt driven fan, belt slipping, fan clutch is bad, fan blades have flattened out.

Air dam under front bumper is gone, loose, or broken. It actually has a purpose other than scraping on the driveway or curbs. It forces air up into and thru the condenser and radiator. If it's loose, airflow can actually push it out of place making it useless or blocking the airflow. Along with that, there may also be a plastic piece attached to the bottom of, and wraps up behind the bumper. If it's loose, airflow can actually push it out of place blocking the airflow. Simply reattach it with 4 or 5 screws.

Also, if the vehicle has A/C and electric fans, one fan is dedicated to the A/C and should come on almost the instant the A/C is turned on. The engine fan will run even with the key off, that is normal. The system is trying to cool itself. Hope this helps.

Normally, you shouldn't have to bleed the cooling system but, there are two bleed valves. (these are the most logical locations)One is just above the water pump, and the other is on the thermostat housing. They are really small, and due to the age of your car, they will be brittle and almost impossible to open without breaking them.
You don't want to break them. If you are hearing air circulating thru the cooling system, try this and let me know how you make out.....

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1 Answer

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Physically look in the radiator under the cap(if one exsist's) when cool, for coolant level, and check the valve in the cap for sticking. If air is present in the radiator it can't get out, and more coolant can't get in,(from the overflow). Either clean the cap or replace it and check that it is the CORRECT cap.

If radiator is low on coolant fill it to overflowing, replace cap, and check that coolant overflow is filled to the COLD line or mark. The overflow is normally where you would add coolant. (never overfill the overflow)After refilling as outlined above, check the level every morning for 2 or 3 days until coolant level stops dropping below the cold mark and add coolant to the overflow ONLY. Do not open the radiator cap. Also, if you have even a tiny coolant leak anywhere in the system, air will get drawn in, instead of coolant from the overflow.

For more OVERHEATING PROBLEMS try these...
Radiator fins dirty, clean with a strong stream of water, not high pressure water.
Radiator clogged, try backflushing it, or replace.
Thermostat stuck open or shut, replace it. Or installed BACKWARDS.
Water pump worn out, can no longer move enough coolant, replace it.
Fan shroud broken or missing....
Electric Fan(s) not working, Check the fan, relay, fuse and engine temperature sensor's.
Belt driven fan, belt slipping, fan clutch is bad, fan blades have flattened out.

Air dam under front bumper is gone, loose, or broken. It actually has a purpose other than scraping on the driveway or curbs. It forces air up into and thru the condenser and radiator. If it's loose, airflow can actually push it out of place making it useless or blocking the airflow. Along with that, there may also be a plastic piece attached to the bottom of, and wraps up behind the bumper. If it's loose, airflow can actually push it out of place blocking the airflow. Simply reattach it with 4 or 5 screws.

Also, if the vehicle has A/C and electric fans, one fan is dedicated to the A/C and should come on almost the instant the A/C is turned on. The engine fan will run even with the key off, that is normal. The system is trying to cool itself. Hope this helps.

Normally, you shouldn't have to bleed the cooling system but, there are two bleed valves. (these are the most logical locations)One is just above the water pump, and the other is on the thermostat housing. They are really small, and due to the age of your car, they will be brittle and almost impossible to open without breaking them.
You don't want to break them. If you are hearing air circulating thru the cooling system, try this and let me know how you make out.....

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1 Answer

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Physically look in the radiator under the cap(if one exsist's) when cool, for coolant level, and check the valve in the cap for sticking. If air is present in the radiator it can't get out, and more coolant can't get in,(from the overflow). Either clean the cap or replace it and check that it is the CORRECT cap.

If radiator is low on coolant fill it to overflowing, replace cap, and check that coolant overflow is filled to the COLD line or mark. The overflow is normally where you would add coolant. (never overfill the overflow)After refilling as outlined above, check the level every morning for 2 or 3 days until coolant level stops dropping below the cold mark and add coolant to the overflow ONLY. Do not open the radiator cap. Also, if you have even a tiny coolant leak anywhere in the system, air will get drawn in, instead of coolant from the overflow.

For more OVERHEATING PROBLEMS try these...
Radiator fins dirty, clean with a strong stream of water, not high pressure water.
Radiator clogged, try backflushing it, or replace.
Thermostat stuck open or shut, replace it. Or installed BACKWARDS.
Water pump worn out, can no longer move enough coolant, replace it.
Fan shroud broken or missing....
Electric Fan(s) not working, Check the fan, relay, fuse and engine temperature sensor's.
Belt driven fan, belt slipping, fan clutch is bad, fan blades have flattened out.

Air dam under front bumper is gone, loose, or broken. It actually has a purpose other than scraping on the driveway or curbs. It forces air up into and thru the condenser and radiator. If it's loose, airflow can actually push it out of place making it useless or blocking the airflow. Along with that, there may also be a plastic piece attached to the bottom of, and wraps up behind the bumper. If it's loose, airflow can actually push it out of place blocking the airflow. Simply reattach it with 4 or 5 screws.

Also, if the vehicle has A/C and electric fans, one fan is dedicated to the A/C and should come on almost the instant the A/C is turned on. The engine fan will run even with the key off, that is normal. The system is trying to cool itself. Hope this helps.

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1 Answer

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It could be a leaking head gasket, or blockage in the cooling system such as sludge in the radiator, or a faulty cooling fan.
How long can you drive it before it gets to 220 degrees, and is the fan coming on ?

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

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OVERHEATING

Physically look in the radiator under the cap(if one exsist's) when cool, for coolant level, and check the valve in the cap for sticking. If air is present in the radiator it can't get out, and more coolant can't get in,(from the overflow). Either clean the cap or replace it and check that it is the CORRECT cap.

If radiator is low on coolant fill it to overflowing, replace cap, and check that coolant overflow is filled to the COLD line or mark. The overflow is normally where you would add coolant. (never overfill the overflow)After refilling as outlined above, check the level every morning for 2 or 3 days until coolant level stops dropping below the cold mark and add coolant to the overflow ONLY. Do not open the radiator cap. Also, if you have even a tiny coolant leak anywhere in the system, air will get drawn in, instead of coolant from the overflow.

For more OVERHEATING PROBLEMS try these...
Radiator fins dirty, clean with a strong stream of water, not high pressure water.
Radiator clogged, try backflushing it, or replace.
Thermostat stuck open or shut, replace it. Or installed BACKWARDS.
Water pump worn out, can no longer move enough coolant, replace it.
Fan shroud broken or missing....
Electric Fan(s) not working, Check the fan, relay, fuse and engine temperature sensor's.
Belt driven fan, belt slipping, fan clutch is bad, fan blades have flattened out.

Air dam under front bumper is gone, loose, or broken. It actually has a purpose other than scraping on the driveway or curbs. It forces air up into and thru the condenser and radiator. If it's loose, airflow can actually push it out of place making it useless or blocking the airflow. Along with that, there may also be a plastic piece attached to the bottom of, and wraps up behind the bumper. If it's loose, airflow can actually push it out of place blocking the airflow. Simply reattach it with 4 or 5 screws.

Also, if the vehicle has A/C and electric fans, one fan is dedicated to the A/C and should come on almost the instant the A/C is turned on. The engine fan will run even with the key off, that is normal. The system is trying to cool itself. Hope this helps.

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1 Answer

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Lift the hood. In the upper right hand corner is the overflow fill tank. If you want to put it in fast reach down the right side of the radiator(when it's cool) unscrew the small plastic petcock and drain a gallon or two of antifreeze into clean pan. Replace petcock. Open the cap on tank and add stop leak. Fill back up with antifreeze. Now would be a good time to change it. Go to Napa and buy the original antifreeze the car came with Zerex G5. Mix 50/50 with distilled water.Fill to just above cold line and start engine keep adding mixture till it won't go down any more. Replace cap and watch level for two or three days of driving add mixture after engine is cold12_2_2011_3_42_50_pm.gif

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1 Answer

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