Question about 1996 Chevrolet Camaro

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My brake boosters are going bad because when I come to a stop I have to mash really hard on my brakes just to slow down or stop, my pads are fine. are they hard to change?

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Could be your check valve it is on the vac hose coming off booster
check vavle
hose ____ <> ____ hose
engine<< >>booster

Posted on Nov 07, 2012

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It is problem with any vacuum tube pipe is pinched or disconnected , booster is not getting vacuum, it is causing it, check with your technician that pipe, it will solve problem..

Posted on Feb 05, 2010

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First off there is only one brake booster on the fire wall under the hood on the driver side. and no there pretty easy. It's a two piece deal with a rod but, I would try bleeding your brakes first before spending all that money on something that may or may not be wrong. Hope I could help.

Posted on Feb 05, 2010

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1 Answer

Car dies when going over really bumpy roads


If the brake pedal goes hard right BEFORE the car dies, and not after, then you could have a problem INSIDE the brake power booster. try to verify this next time it dies at a stop, if you can safely pull the dead car off the road into a driveway (or try to make it stall in a bumpy parking lot) - then before you try to restart the car, open the hood, pull off the rubber hose where it's plugged into the brake power booster --> you SHOULD hear a big "Swoosh" of air being sucked into the booster because there's supposed to be a strong vacuum there even after the car stops running. if you get nothing there, your car is dying of an excessive vacuum leak through the brake booster.= bad booster.

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1993 buick lesabre changed the front rotars and pads and now the cars brake pedal is so hard to push down to get car to stop. Mechanic has checked both the front and back brakes and they are fine. T


I would jack up a front wheel and see if pushing on the pedal with the engine running will stop the wheel from turning.
You need to know if the pressure is reaching the wheels, or if the pads and rotors are too slick to stop the car.
Usually if the pedal is hard, the booster is not working or the brakes are glazed.
Can you stop the car with the parking brake ? That only uses the rear brakes.
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I have a 2000 1.8 turboVW beetle replaced the front calipers and a rear drivers side caliper that appeared to be locked up, bled the brakes all around go to mash on the brakes and the pedal feels real hard...


If you replaced the pads and used metallic pads, they do have a brake-in period. if you do all four at once this can be a bit unnerving when stopping the first few times. If indeed this is what is happening, 2 or 3 40mph panic stops on and unpopulated street should heat them up and solve the problem. Also, if you were under the hood messing around, make sure you didn't knock the vacuum hose to the power brake booster off.

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Check brake system. Resurface brake rotors. Replace pads. Check drums and shoes. Fush system. I use cross drilled rotors and carbon fiber pads. Stop in a hurry. Some Suburbans (94 and up) have slow ABS units that take their time to allow brakes to activate.

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Brake hoses go bad and either prevent brakes from operating or prevent them from pulling back after being applied. Had this problem too.

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Try to use some liquid around vaccuum hoses and see if idle changes. Non TBI engines have plastic intake issues.

Check check valve in vaccuum booster. My was bad too.

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No brakes I think the booster was going out because my peddle got soft but would still stop me then i changed my brake pads shortly after the brakes completly went out and can now only stop with the...


The problem is not the booster, the job of the booster is to make braking easier. If the booster went out the brakes would be hard to press.
Your soft pedal is likely due to air in the brake lines. Bleed the brakes and go from there.

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you can tell if the brake booster is bad, rearly it goes bad, your master cyclinder usually go out before your brake booster will. It feel spoon-gy and while pressing down on the brake peddle holding it down you can feel the pressure bleed off with no resistance. If the brake booster is bad you have only ONE shot for braking each time; its very dangerous. Did you bleed the brake lines to release the the air out of the system when you replace the pad? whom ever did your brakes should know to bleed it. having air in the line can be dangerous as brake will not function and operates properly and can cause an accident. If you did bleed the brakes and your booster is fine then you have a master cylinder problems. master cylinder gives you a spoon-gy feel and when braking the peddle it tend to go to the floor and you have to let your foot up to build the pressure and applied the brake again to make it stop. Master Cyclinder use or rebuilt will cost you 30.00 bucks and new will be 58.00 bucks and they are easy to replace. Just make sure you have plenty of extra brake fluid to bleed all 4 brake line..I recommend you reused the brake fluid when bleeding the unit saving some money than wasting the fluid, glass jar is the best for capturing the bleed fluid with automotive smallest vacum hoses you can purchase at any auto discount store 58 cent a foot, which you only need 2 foot. good luck I hope that help some.

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