I have no power to the fuse in the fuse box that regulates the fuel injectors(all others have power,has been replaced with a good one) which cause the relay to have no power and the pump wont start. after we cross wired the fuse we got one side of the relay to go hot (input) but no output and still no pump action. Can you bypass any of this .If not how can you check the ignition or is it woth it seems all of the other fuses have power when the key is turned on

If you have checked the ignition system, replaced the fuel pumps and fuel filter, and the TPS voltage is stable when driving, there are a few other potential causes of your 1988 Bronco 2 2.9's issue:

1. Check the fuel pressure regulator: A faulty fuel pressure regulator can cause a lack of power and poor performance. Check the fuel pressure at the fuel rail and make sure it is within the manufacturer's recommended range.
2. Check the mass air flow sensor (MAF): A dirty or faulty MAF can cause the engine to run poorly. Remove the MAF and clean it with a MAF cleaner, or replace it if necessary.
3. Check the oxygen sensor: A bad oxygen sensor can cause the engine to run poorly and result in decreased fuel efficiency. Check the oxygen sensor and replace if necessary.
4. Check for vacuum leaks: Vacuum leaks can cause a variety of issues with the engine's performance. Check all vacuum hoses for cracks, breaks, or loose connections.
5. Check the catalytic converter: A clogged or damaged catalytic converter can cause a lack of power and poor performance. Check the exhaust flow and replace the catalytic converter if necessary.

If these steps do not resolve the issue, it may be necessary to take the Bronco to a professional mechanic for further diagnosis and repair.

First, make absolutely sure the fuel pump is running when the key is on and is pushing fuel to the TBI. Take the feed line off the TBI if you have to. Watch it, fuel will spray everywhere if you aren't careful. Most fuel pump "no run" problems are caused by a bad ground. Use a VOM to check for power and ground.

Make sure the injectors receive power when the engine is cranking to start. Might be something as simple as a blown fuse. Can check with a noid light or 12v test light. Remote possibility of the injectors losing power when via the ignition switch and/or wiring when you crank the engine.

Fuel pressure regulator may be defective. TBI must be disassembled to replace it. There is a nice aftermarket adjustable regulator available.

Internal to the TBI itself (SOME, BUT NOT ALL HAD THIS) is a small neoprene pressure bleed. It has a VERY small hole in it, used to slowly bleed off the fuel pump pressure when the engine is shut down. If the diaphragm ruptured the fuel will return to the tank, never building enough pressure to spray out the injectors.

These units are relatively easy to rebuild. Youtube has several good vids walking you thru the process if you have any doubts.

Did you do a noid light test to see if the injectors are getting a signal from the PCM? If you're not getting a signal, you need to check the cam and crank sensors. They talk to the PCM to control the fuel injectors. There is on some models, an injector fuse in the main fuse box under the hood or in the left kick panel in the interior fuse block.

check egr valve if it is open it will cause rough idle and fumes as if it was being choked.

There is not an fuel pump reset button. There is however an Automatic Shutdown Relay that acts as a fuel pump shutdown. On the 1998 Model: It should be located in the Junction Box located under the leftside of the dashboard There should be a cover over the top of the Junction Box. On the backside of that cover is the identification and location of the Relays and Fuses. If there is no cover, your Owner's Manual should have a schematic identifying the location, position, and type of Relay and Fuses. There should be additional Fuses involving the Fuel Pump. Make sure you not only check the Relay and Fuses to see if they are good, also check with a Voltmeter to check for voltage, with the Key in the "ON" (not start) Position; it should read approximately 12v,

With approx 12v present at the Relay and Fuses, one quick way to determine if there is Voltage to the Fuel Pump:
1) With a Partner behind the wheel. Take the Gas Cap off and place your ear up close to the opening of the Gas Filler Tube. Have your Partner turn the Key to the "ON" (not Start) Position. You should be listening for a humming sound (for 2-3 seconds)meaning the Fuel Pump is getting power (volts).
2) If there is no "humming" or you are not sure, get underneath the Van next to the Gas Tank and have your Partner do it again. Listen for a humming.
3) If there is definitely no humming present with good fuses, relays and voltage, then most likely the Fuel Pump is bad.
4) However, a lot of Fuel Pumps have been replaced only to find out the Pump was good, but the electrical wiring harness was bad and the real culprit.
5) You will have to slightly lower the Fuel Tank to gain access to this electrical connection.
6) After you disconnect the electrical connection, using the Voltmeter check for approximately 12v coming from the Wiring Harness/Connector.
7) Inspect the Wiring Harness/Cnnections for any signs of burns, melting, or shorting. Repair this wiring harness before deciding to replace the fuel pump needlessly.
8) After repairing the Wiring Harness/Connection: Replug it back in and recheck the Fuel Pump one last time.
9) If still no "humming" the Fuel Pump needs to be replaced.

If there is humming from the Fuel Pump, then there are four possible problems.
a) Fuel Filter (when was the last time it was replaced?) It could be clogged, prohobiting fuel flow.
b) Fuel Regulator. Located on the Fuel Rail where the Fuel Injectors are. If there is a presence of Gas in the Vacuum line (the only rubber line on the Fuel Regulator) attached to the Regulator, then the Diaphram of the Fuel Regulator is broke and Gas is not reaching the Fuel Injectors. Instead it is being dumped into the Intake. Replace the Regulator.
c) Fuel Injector Circuitry problem. Using an Auto Stethoscope: Place the Stethoscope end in each individual Fuel Injector. Have your Partner attempt to start the Van. If there is no evident and rythmic "clicking" (fuel injector's gate opening and closing) then the Fuel Injector is faulty or the electrical connection is faulty. To check to find out which is faulty, switch Fuel Injectors (one clicking with one not clicking) and recheck for the clicking.
d) Clogged Fuel Injectors. With the Fuel Rail (with the Fuel Injectors) removed out of the engine. Place clear Plastic tubing over the nozzle ends of all exposed Injectors. With a Partner Starting the Engine, look for
(1) Fuel Flow (presence).
(2) Fuel Spray (pressure).

Let me know if this helped, or if you have any additional information or questions. Feel free to contact me at FixYa.com!

This is usually a 10 amp fuse located under the driver side dash. If it is not this it should be a relay located above the fuse box.

Check the fuel pressure at the shredder valve, you should have 13 to 13.5psi, anything other then that will give you problems in the GM TBI. If the pressure is bad, then you may have to replace the fuel pressure regulator at the bottom of the TB. 
Good luck and keep me posted. 

Is the fuel pump actually coming on??? If it isn't, I would start by checking for a fuel pump relay.  This is usually located up in the engine compartment in a black box on the drivers side.  Relays are small black boxes approx 1"x1".  These have a tendency to go out just like fuses.  Also double check your fuses.  If you suspect a that a relay is bad, you can interchange them with other relays that look the exact same to see if they really are the problems.  These relays are very quick and easy to change and are very cheap.  They usually run no more than $10-15.
Any further questions, feel free to ask.

replace the fuel injectors, that is the likely cause......

to test the injector, take the power clip off the top of the injector, take one wire and ground it to the body of the car, and another form the battery, to the other post on the injector, if you do not hear a pulsing sound coming from the injector it is bad, if you do, then you have a wiring problem.

Where the car runs on starter cleaner, this is definitely a fuel problem...

Could be a few things:

Do you hear the fuel pump running outside the car (for a few seconds) when you turn the key on (engine off)?

If not it might be the pump or the pump relay (in the engine compartment fuse and relay box)

If so, it might be:
Clogged inline fuel filter (in the fuel line from the pump to the engine)
Bad fuel pressure regulator
Bad injectors/wiring

Did you check the fuse and wires to see if you have power (and a good ground) to your engine computer (controls fuel injectors), this could also be the culprit (without power to the computer there is no way for the engine to get fuel).