Question about 1993 Ford Explorer Limited

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My '93 ford explorer is leaking coolant. It only leaks 1/2 gallon and stops. I checked the hoses and they are not leaking but I can see leakage coming from a part of the engine I can not see, due to a lot of the tubes and wires are blocking the exact spot. How would I know if its the head gasket or the water pump that is leaking?

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Alot of these explorers had a problem with the radiator leaking around the edge of the aluminum and plastic sides. An easy way to see the leak is to get a black light at night or in a really dark garage, the coolant is floresent and should make it easier to spot.

Posted on Feb 05, 2010

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Where is the thermostat in a ford probe 96



  • Drain about 1 gallon of coolant from radiator. Follow upper radiator hose to engine housing.Remove housing- make note how thermostat is installed. Clean both surfaces. Install new thermostat and gasket. Refill coolant slowly to prevent an "airlock". Start engine and look for leaks. Run engine up to normal operating temperature with heater on. Re-check coolant level.

Aug 12, 2013 | Ford Cars & Trucks

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Things to test when checking cooling system


<p>A leak detection additive is available through the parts department that can be added to cooling system. The additive is highly visible under ultraviolet light (black light) (1). Pour one ounce of additive into cooling system. Place heater control unit in HEAT position. Start and operate engine until the radiator upper hose is warm to touch. Aim the commercially available black light tool at components to be checked. If leaks are present, black light will cause the additive to glow a bright green color.<br /> <p>The black light can be used in conjunction with a pressure tester to determine if any external leaks exist .<br /> <p><b>PRESSURE TESTER METHOD</b><br />he engine should be at normal operating temperature. Recheck the system cold if the cause of coolant loss is not located during the warm engine examination. <br /> WARNING <p> HOT, PRESSURIZED COOLANT CAN CAUSE INJURY BY SCALDING.<br /> <p>Carefully remove the radiator pressure cap from the filler neck and check coolant level. Push down on cap to disengage it from the stop tabs. Wipe the inside of filler neck and examine the lower inside sealing seat for nicks, cracks, paint, dirt and solder residue. Inspect the radiator-to- reserve/overflow tank hose for internal obstructions. Insert a wire through the hose to be sure it is not obstructed.<br /> <p>Inspect cams on the outside of filler neck. If the cams are damaged, seating of the pressure cap valve and tester seal will be affected.<br /> <p>Attach pressure tester (7700 or an equivalent) to radiator filler neck (1).<br /> <p>Operate tester pump to apply 103.4 kPa (15 psi) pressure to system. If hoses enlarge excessively or bulge while testing, replace as necessary. Observe the gauge pointer and determine the condition of the cooling system according to the following criteria:<br /> <p><b>Holds Steady:</b> If the pointer remains steady for two minutes, serious coolant leaks are not present in system. However, there could be an internal leak that does not appear with normal system test pressure. If it is certain that coolant is being lost and leaks cannot be detected, inspect for interior leakage or perform Internal Leakage Test. Refer to <a>INTERNAL LEAKAGE INSPECTION</a>.<br /> <p><b>Drops Slowly:</b> Indicates a small leak or seepage is occurring. Examine all connections for seepage or slight leakage with a flashlight. Inspect radiator, hoses, gasket edges and heater. Seal small leak holes with a Sealer Lubricant (or equivalent). Repair leak holes and inspect system again with pressure applied.<br /> <p><b>Drops Quickly:</b> Indicates that serious leakage is occurring. Examine system for external leakage. If leaks are not visible, inspect for internal leakage. Large radiator leak holes should be repaired by a reputable radiator repair shop.<br /> <a></a> <p><b>INTERNAL LEAKAGE INSPECTION</b><br /> <p>Remove engine oil pan drain plug and drain a small amount of engine oil. If coolant is present in the pan, it will drain first because it is heavier than oil. An alternative method is to operate engine for a short period to churn the oil. After this is done, remove engine dipstick and inspect for water globules. Also inspect the transmission dipstick for water globules and the transmission fluid cooler for leakage.<br /> <br /> WARNING <p> WITH RADIATOR PRESSURE TESTER TOOL INSTALLED ON RADIATOR, DO NOT ALLOW PRESSURE TO EXCEED 145 KPA (21 PSI). PRESSURE WILL BUILD UP QUICKLY IF A COMBUSTION LEAK IS PRESENT. TO RELEASE PRESSURE, ROCK TESTER FROM SIDE TO SIDE. WHEN REMOVING TESTER, DO NOT TURN TESTER MORE THAN 1/2 TURN IF SYSTEM IS UNDER PRESSURE.<br /> <p>Operate the engine without the pressure cap on the radiator until the thermostat opens. Attach a Pressure Tester to filler neck. If pressure builds up quickly it indicates a combustion leak exists. This is usually the result of a cylinder head gasket leak or crack in engine. Repair as necessary.<br /> <p>If there is not an immediate pressure increase, pump the Pressure Tester. Do this until indicated pressure is within system range of 110 kPa (16 psi). Fluctuation of gauge pointer indicates compression or combustion leakage into cooling system.<br /> <p>Because the vehicle is equipped with a catalytic converter, <b>do not</b> remove spark plug cables or short out cylinders to isolate compression leak.<br /> <p>If the needle on the dial of pressure tester does not fluctuate, race engine a few times to check for an abnormal amount of coolant or steam. This would be emitting from exhaust pipe. Coolant or steam from exhaust pipe may indicate a faulty cylinder head gasket, cracked engine cylinder block or cylinder head.<br /> <p>A convenient check for exhaust gas leakage into cooling system is provided by a commercially available Block Leak Check tool. Follow manufacturers instructions when using this product.<br /> <p><b>COMBUSTION LEAKAGE TEST - WITHOUT PRESSURE TESTER</b><br /> <p>DO NOT WASTE reusable coolant. If the solution is clean, drain the coolant into a clean container for reuse.<br /> <br /> WARNING <p> DO NOT REMOVE CYLINDER BLOCK DRAIN PLUGS OR LOOSEN RADIATOR DRAINCOCK WITH SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE. SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN OCCUR.<br /> <p>Drain sufficient coolant to allow thermostat removal(Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE). Remove accessory drive belt or (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - REMOVAL).<br /> <p>Add coolant to radiator to bring level to within 6.3 mm (1/4 in) of the top of the thermostat housing.<br /> <br /> CAUTION <p> Avoid overheating. Do not operate engine for an excessive period of time. Open draincock immediately after test to eliminate boil over.<br /> <p>Start engine and accelerate rapidly three times, to approximately 3000 rpm while observing coolant. If internal engine combustion gases are leaking into cooling system, bubbles will appear in coolant. If bubbles do not appear, internal combustion gas leakage is not present.

on Jan 20, 2011 | Subaru Legacy Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have a 96 ford explorer that is leaking an orange color i have replaced the water pump along with gasket the heater core thermostat and 02 sensor please help with the leakage problem


Have you changed the heater hoses, and check the radiator for leaks. If you changed the hoses, one might just not be tight enough. The best way to find a leak, is park the vehicle over a large piece of cardboard, and mark where the leak is coming from. The cardboard will get you close to what is leaking. Now you know about where the drips are coming from, trace the stain to the leak. Hope this helps

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1 Answer

I first noticed this smell of oder coming from my vents without the air or heat on ..then it started leaking antifreeze mixed with water they think could this be a leak in the hose or another problem ?


Step 1: check to see if there is any leakage of coolant under the car, if so it could be a leaking hose or water pump seal.
If not
Step 2: check to see if there's coolant leaking on the passenger side fire wall (inside the car) and to see if there is any fogging on the windshield when the defroster is running, or if there's smearing on the windshield, this would indicate the heater core is leaking and has gone bad.

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2 Answers

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from what you describe I am sure it is the water pump that is leaking, check the pump bearing for play to confirm

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High temp could be low coolant check your coolant level. Low oil-check for leaks, if no leaks then check for blue smoke out exhaust, if no blue smoke it could just be low. A vehicle will go through a quart of oil between oil changes, even a newer one.

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I have a 1990 gmc 1500 5 speed that is overheating and leaking coolant i changed the radiator hoses,thermostat, and water pump, and i know the leak is not coming from the radiator what do i do next?


any external leaks?coolant stains? would check the intake for signs of leakage also the heater hose quick connect.also check the sides of the block for leakage from the core plugs.

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sounds like the thermostat gasket is leaking. Might as well change the thermostat and gasket at the same time. make sure the hose clamp is tight sometimes it needs to get tightened up. could be lealking from the hose and running down.

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Waterpump leaking, maybe???


Either your water pump seal is leaking or you have a hole in your radiator hose. Either one can ruin your engine in minutes if left unrepaired. I lost a perfectly good Ranger pickup engine when one of my employees ignored the warning signs. Don't let that happen to you

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