Question about 2000 Ford Expedition

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On a 2000 expedition multi meter on battery while vehicle is running reads 7.5 car is dying little by little battery draining .. suspect alternator ?

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  • Ford Master
  • 451 Answers

May not be alternator......have load test run on battery at autozone. then if not batterry autozone can also check alternator. all free of charge

Posted on Feb 06, 2010

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  • Master
  • 617 Answers

Yes your right, not charging

Posted on Feb 04, 2010

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My battery keeps dying which I have replaced twice in 14 months. The alternator was tested and this is not the cause? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you


Not everyone knows how to test alternators adequately ... but that is not to say that whoever tested your alternator did anything wrong either!t

One of the most annoying situations to have in any vehicle, is a mystery drain on the battery. It could be something as simple as a light not turning off somewhere. A trunk light that stays on, a glove box light, or any other lighted enclosure, an under-hood light, or perhaps even a defective phone charge cable that draws current even if the phone is disconnected!

If you have a voltmeter anywhere, connect it across your battery, AFTER setting the correct range and function on the meter. The voltage will be 14.2 to 14.6 VOLTS (NOT AMPS!!!) with the meter connected across the battery terminals, the engine idling, and as many things turned OFF as you can control. If the voltage is 12 point something, when idling, either the alternator is defective or not turning!

Any multi-function meter you get will probably have some current ranges. If you are not afraid to, you could (with the engine off and cooled off), DISCONNECT one battery terminal. Then connect your meter (as a CURRENT meter), in series with the disconnected battery terminal. Read the meter, and that will tell you IF you have a drain on the battery, and how much drain (in amps).

Such meters are very low cost at places like Harbor Freight Tools! Well under ten bucks!

Apr 17, 2017 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

My Volvo s60 battery died jumped got it started let it run 10 mind tried again now nothing


Sounds like 2 possibilities, A) your alternator is not charging the battery or B) your battery is pooched.

To check your alternator, 1) without the engine running apply a volt meter to your battery, it should read somewhere around 12 volts. 2) boost the car, and with the engine running test your battery again, it should read approx. 14-15 volts.

If it reads 15 volts, your alternator is fine, and your battery is suspect, if it only reads 12 volts when running, then your alternator needs to be replaced.

Oct 17, 2015 | Volvo Cars & Trucks

6 Answers

Has new battery,starter,and alternater I can jump it to start it but after it sits overnight it wont start please help


I've encountered this with my 2000 dodge mini van. The problem lies in the IOD circuit. Best fix is a battery disconnect switch for overnight parking. Here's info: IGNITION-OFF DRAW TEST
The term Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) identifies a nor-
mal condition where power is being drained from the
battery with the ignition switch in the Off position. A
normal vehicleicon1.png electrical system will draw from fif-
teen to twenty-five milliamperes (0.015 to 0.025
ampere) with the ignition switch in the Off position,
and all non-ignition controlled circuits in proper
working order. Up to twenty-five milliamperes are
needed to enable the memory functions for the Pow-
ertrain Control Module (PCM), digital clock, electron-
ically tuned radio, and other modules which may
vary with the vehicle equipment.
A vehicle that has not been operated for approxi-
mately twenty-one days, may discharge the battery
to an inadequate level. When a vehicle will not be
used for twenty-one days or more (stored), remove
the IOD fuse from the Integrated Power Module
(IPM). This will reduce battery discharging.
Excessive IOD can be caused by:
• Electrical items left on.
• Faulty or improperly adjusted switches.
• Faulty or shorted electronic modules and compo-
nents.
• An internally shorted generator.
• Intermittent shorts in the wiring.
If the IOD is over twenty-five milliamperes, the
problem must be found and corrected before replac-
ing a battery. In most cases, the battery can be
charged and returned to service after the excessive
IOD condition has been corrected.
(1) Verify that all electrical accessories are off.
Turn off all lamps, remove the ignition key, and close
all doors. If the vehicle is equipped with an illumi-
nated entry system or an electronically tuned radio,
allow the electronic timer function of these systems
to automatically shut off (time out). This may take
up to twenty minutes.
(2) Disconnect the battery negative cableicon1.png.
(3) Set an electronic digital multi-meter to its
highest amperage scale. Connect the multi-meter
between the disconnected battery negative cable ter-
minal clampicon1.png and the battery negative terminal post.
Make sure that the doors remain closed so that the
illuminated entry system is not activated. The multi-
meter amperage reading may remain high for up to
three minutes, or may not give any reading at all
while set in the highest amperage scale, depending
upon the electrical equipment in the vehicle. The
multi-meter leads must be securely clamped to the
battery negative cable terminal clamp and the bat-
tery negative terminal post. If continuity between the
battery negative terminal post and the negative cable
terminal clamp is lost during any part of the IOD
test, the electronic timer function will be activated
and all of the tests will have to be repeated.
(4) After about three minutes, the high-amperage
IOD reading on the multi-meter should become very
low or nonexistent, depending upon the electrical
equipment in the vehicle. If the amperage reading
remains high, remove and replace each fuse or circuit
breaker in the Integrated Power Module (IPM), one
at a time until the amperage reading becomes very
low, or nonexistent. Refer to the appropriate wiring
information for complete Integrated Power Module
fuse, circuit breaker, and circuit identification. This
will isolate each circuit and identify the circuit that
is the source of the high-amperage IOD. If the
amperage reading remains high after removing and
replacing each fuse and circuit breaker, disconnect
the wire harness from the generator. If the amperage
reading now becomes very low or nonexistent, (Refer
to 8 - ELECTRICAL/CHARGING - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING) for the proper charging systemicon1.png diagnosis
and testing procedures. After the high-amperage IOD
has been corrected, switch the multi-meter to pro-
gressively lower amperage scales and, if necessary,
repeat the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-re-
place process to identify and correct all sources of
excessive IOD. It is now safe to select the lowest mil-
liampere scale of the multi-meter to check the low-
amperage IOD.
CAUTION: Do not open any doors, or turn on any
electrical accessories with the lowest milliampere
scale selected, or the multi-meter may be damaged.
(5) Allow twenty minutes for the IOD to stabilize
and observe the multi-meter reading. The low-amper-
age IOD should not exceed twenty-five milliamperes
(0.025 ampere). If the current draw exceeds twenty-
five milliamperes, isolate each circuit using the fuse
and circuit breaker remove-and-replace process in
Step 4. The multi-meter reading will drop to within
the acceptable limit when the source of the excessive
current draw is disconnected. Repair this circuit as
required; whether a wiring short, incorrect switch
adjustment, or a component failure is at fault.

Apr 10, 2015 | 2000 Dodge Caravan

1 Answer

Replaced alternator and battery in 2002 Chevy Tahoe. Battery voltage remains between 9 and 14 (leaning more towards 9 and at times falling completely until trucks shuts off)


Hello,
When you say battery voltage how are you testing it? Are you looking at a gauge on the dash? Or are you physically testing it with a multi meter? If the truck is dying and you recently replaced the alternator and battery I would first suggest you to check all them connections again real good. Snug them all up. Check for corrosion and clean as needed. Did you replace the battery and alternator with new/re-manufactured battery and alternator? The alternator needs to put out at least 13.6 volts to charge your 12 volt battery or the battery will not maintain a charge. However the alternator runs the vehicle once it is started. The battery is used only to start the car and then the alternator runs it. So if your vehicle starts and runs and then dies you may have a bad alternator. Check your connections first and then test the alternator with a multi meter. Anything less than 13.6 volt will not suffice. 14+ volts would be the hopeful output of a good alternator.
regards, Tony

Apr 12, 2011 | 2002 Chevrolet Tahoe

2 Answers

Battery runs down after setting for 48 hours . Has new battery


Generally when a battery keeps dying even after replacement one of two things is the problem. Either the alternator or alternator belt (however, if this was the case, one would think it would die while driving down the road) OR Something is drawing power that shouldn't be, for example, let's say the switch that shuts off the light in the trunk is broken, so the light is staying on all the time and you may not be aware of it, constantly draining the battery. A quick test for the alternator is to visually inspect the belt, check belt tension. Measure battery voltage using a multimeter, start vehicle, measure battery voltage again, it should be higher than when you measured it with the vehicle off, this is a decent indicator that your alternator is working. To test for a drain on the system, first shut everything off. This includes lights, radio, taking out the keys, closing the doors, turning off headlights, heater, etc. To measure the drain, you must remove the positive battery cable from the battery. Connect a multimeter capable of reading amps DC in series between the positive battery post and the positive battery cable. If you have more than half an amp, you probably have a drain on the battery. Now, with the meter still connected in the manner described, you must remove fuses one by one until you determine which circuit the problem is on (excessive current reading on the meter goes to acceptable levels). This website has a very good description with a few pictures and other information about battery drain:
http://flashoffroad.com/electrical/Batteries/BatteryDrain.html
After determining which fuse the drain is on, you must determine what is now not working (hopefully your fusebox has a diagram on the lid, most do) and troubleshoot that circuit.

Mar 02, 2011 | Jeep Cherokee Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

On a 2000 expedition multi meter on battery while vehicle is running reads 7.5 car is dying little by little battery draining .. suspect alternator ?


Go to Autozone or Oreillys for a free scan. You would need to catch the voltage before it goes across the battery to know how much the regulator is sending to the battery. If the battery is that bad you are only measuring battery voltage and not alternator output.

Since most regulators are inside the newer alternators you will need to physically open the alternator to replace the regulator or buy a new alternator. If the battery is rapidly dying you are probably correct about the alternator. Usually a battery at 10 volts will hold 10 volts when it is getting a 14.2 volt boost to its good cells. Not drop like yours is doing.

Feb 04, 2010 | Ford Expedition Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have a 2000 Ford Expedition. The battery was


Hi:
The battery light is telling you that you are running off the battery,and you have a problem with your charging system. An easy way to check your alternator is to get a volt meter, and measure the voltage of your fully charged battery. with your expedition not running, it should read about 12.6 volts. When you start your expedition, it should read approx 14 volts if your alternator is working properly.
Of course, check all of your connections first, and most auto parts stores will check your alternator out for free, so they might have a chance to sell you one!

Nov 20, 2009 | 2000 Ford Expedition

3 Answers

Something is draining the battery on my 2000 Jeep Wrangler. We have a new battery, alternator checked okay, new starter. The jeep starts, lights come on, and then will die while driving. What could be...


Put a volt meter across the battery terminals while the vehicle is running. You should read no less than 12.5 volts at idle with no accessories running and no less than that with accessories all on. Normal volts should be around 13.5. Aside from slight fluctuations, the voltage reading should not steadily drop, regardless of how long it is running. I doubt if you have a system drain if it's shutting down while driving...the alternator would compensate for that. Some charging systems incorporate the voltage regulator into the computer. If the alternator checked good by itself but the tests I recommended show otherwise, likely your problem is with the computer.
If the engine does not need to be jump started after it shuts off, you may be looking entirely in the wrong place...but you didn't mention that part!!

Oct 21, 2009 | 2000 Jeep Wrangler

2 Answers

2003 Ford Mustang GT Battery Light


Your alternator should power everything when engine is running. Battery is only for start up. Test voltage with a multimeter when engine is running , should be 14V or more . Any less indicates low alternator output.

Jun 02, 2009 | 2003 Ford Mustang

2 Answers

Battery being drained on 2000 Expedition


you should remove your alternator and take it into an auto parts store and they can test it for you.
this alt had an internal regulator which can be replaced easy.
your auto parts store will be able to full feld your alt to bypass the regulator. this is how you test it to see if the regulator is bad.

you didnt say how many miles are on this truck .
most of these ford alt will last 120,000 or more
on the back side of the alt you will see the replaceable regulator.
516c5a3.jpg

Nov 17, 2008 | 2000 Ford Expedition

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