I dont have enough clearence to install my new lug nut studs on my 96 ford explorer

Rotate the hub to a point that the stud will come out. Beat it out with a big hammer. You have to use a nut to pull the other one back in. If you don't have an impact gun, you'll need a breaker bar and some one holding the brake, so the rotor doesn't move.

ok they are not going to just go in easy they have notches on them that correspond with the notches they go into. put tire on put stud in and use the lug wrench or 4 way to tighten them, feel in the back to make sure they are seated tighten until they are seated job done.

Unfortunately, removing the hub will damage the hub bearing and ABS tone ring as they are pressed together. There are aftermarket studs that are able to slip into the empty stud hole but you have to modify the back of the stud to clear the tone ring. Using a brass drift and a dead blow mallet, strike the end of the stud to push it back in till it clears the splined area. You may have to shorten the broken stud with a cutting tool to get it out past the tone ring. Insert the new stud into the hub and using a half inch washer and lug nut, tighten the lug nut with an impact wrench till it seats on the back side of the hub. The lug nut must be a standard lug nut--- no threaded cap style or chrome style will work as the lug nut is installed BACKWARDS to avoid damaging the chamfered end.

It is not recommended to drive it like that. It's not too bad to replace but it depends on your level of mechanical skill, You need to remove the brake caliper and disc and then you can simply knock the remains of the broken stud out with a hammer and punch, To fit the new one insert the stud and then put a large nut over the thread, then fit the lug nut and tighten it to pull the stud into the hub, then simply remove the lug nut and put it all back together.

you don`t say if its front or rear lug nut(assuming you mean stud).remove the wheel and then the drum or rotor,then take a hammer and hit the broken stud to remove it from the hub assembly.with the correct wheel stud insert it through the hole and make sure its in straight,install the wheel nut and tighten the nut to pull the stud into the hub until all the way in.you may have to install washer on the stud and re-install the nut and tighten until the stud is seated all the way.

GO TO TIRE CENTER OR GARAGE THAT SALE TIRES AND DO BRAKE WORK.THEY WILL HAVE TOOLS TO REMOVE BROKEN STUD AND PRESS IN NEW TIRE STUDS.REASON TIRES STUDS BROKE TOO MUCH TORQUE WAS APPLIED TO BRAKE STUDS CAUSING THEM TO BREAK.COST TO FIX ABOUT $60.00

I am assuming you are talking about a wheel lug stud. The lug studs are pressed in from the inner side of the drum or rotor or axle flange depending on how your vehicle is equipped. You have to remove the wheel and drum or rotor to get access to the back side. Drive the broken stud out from the front after you have removed the drum or rotor and set the new one in from the back and tap it into the hole until set as the rest are. If you cant get it set all the way you can finish setting it by pulling it into place when you tighten the lug nuts on reassembly. The part should be under $10.00

You require "lug studs" to be able to install a lug nut to secure the tire.

You will need a special tool to press the lug studs in and out of the flange, or you can follow these directions;

First you will have to pound the broken lug stud(s) out of the wheel hub, use a punch or a drift that is a little smaller in diameter than the lug stud, and be sure that you do not pound on the flange itself, then you will need a lug nut and about a half an inch thick of flat washers.

1. Insert the new lug stud through the wheel hub from behind so that the threaded end is facing out towards you and then put some grease on the threads.

2. Then slip the flat washers onto the lug stud followed by the lug nut, and run the lug nut down backwards with the flat end of the lug nut towards the flat washers to take up the slack and use plenty of grease on the threads.

3. Then using a breaker bar tighten the lug nut until it pulls the lug stud through the wheel hub and it is flush with the wheel hub.

Be sure that the amount of flat washers used will make up for any non-threaded part of the lug stud that might stick out past the wheel hub preventing the lug nut from pulling the lug stud all the way through the wheel hub, and basically you do not want the lug nut to run out of threads before it can pull the lug stud flush with the wheel hub.

Let me know if you require any further assistance.

I assume that you are referring to the wheel studs and if so you will have to remove the wheel, the brake caliper, the brake caliper stand and the brake rotor. Drive the old stud out with a hammer. Make sure you purchase new lug nuts with the studs. If they are the acorn style, buy one that is not to help with installation. Slide the new stud in the hole from the rear of the flange, install some washers for clearance of the stud shoulder. Install the non acorn style lug nut on the stud backwards. Using a impact gun, pull the stud through. Remove the backwards lug nut and washers.

here is word for word what the manual says:

REMOVAL:
1. Loosen the front wheel lug nuts on the side to be dismanteld. Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jack stands. CAUTION: If the vehicle is equipped with Automatic Ride Control (ARC), make sure the air suspention switch is turned to the OFF position before the vehicle is riased to prevent damage to the system components.

2. Remove the front wheel.

3. Remove the cotter pin and loosen the nut on the tie-rod end stud. Discard the cotter pin.

4. Disconnect the tie-rod end fron the steering spindel with a Pitman arm puller.

5. Loosen the tie-rod end jam nut and back it off several turns.

6. Apply a paint mark to the theads adjacent to the adjusting sleeve or tie-rod end. Unscrew the tie-rod end from the adjusting sleeve or connecting rod.

INSTALLATION:
7. Install the tie-rod end into the adjusting sleeve or connecting rod. Thread the tie-rob end in until the marks made on step 6 align.

8. Install the tie-rod end to the spindle. Make sure the front wheels and steering wheel are in the stright ahead position. Make sure the tie-rod stud is seated in the taper to prevent it from turing while tightening the nut.

9. Install the new nut on the stud and tighent it to the proper torque (45-60 ft-lbs). Install a new cotter pin and bend the ends over completely.

10. Tighten the tie-rod adjusting sleever clap bolts or jam nut to 50-68 ft-lbs. Make sure the tie-rod is posistioned correctly in the same posistion it was in before it was removed.

11. Install the wheel and lug nuts. Lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts.

12. get the front end aligned.