Question about 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee

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I have a 97 Grand Cherokee with 105000 miles. For the past month If I let the car idle and after a minute or two it almost stalls and bucks and the tachcomitor jumps. There are other times when I drive it a quater mile it will do the same thing. After the motor comes back to normal Ill have no more problems until I shut it off and I go through the same process. I brought it the a dealer and they were unable to find anything wrong. I changed the throttle position sensor and tunned it up with out luck. Yesterday I had a check engine light come on. What could be the problem.

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  • dean_melrose Feb 05, 2010

    Thank you for you fast responce to my question. The code that came up was po135. The shop I took it to said that it is an O2 sensor dowm by the muffle and wouldnt cause the problem. As they were working on it the bucking etc happened while on the computer and it read no problems and the check engine light turned off. Could this O2 sensor be causing the problem? I think it might since the problem happens everytime I start it up I figure the sensor isnt reading the cold emissions. Any ideas

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  • Jeep Master
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It's good that the check engine light came on. Good in the respect that now you have a stored code that may give you a clue as to what the problem is. Most larger parts outlets do code scans free...have it done and see what system the code relates to. (codes often indicate a system, not an individual part so you may want to get a haynes or chilton manual and a digital multi-meter to do further testing) I'd guess that the problem may be with the coolant temp or intake temp sensor, but that's only a guess and needs to be verified by testing.

Posted on Feb 04, 2010

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  • Richard Scordino Feb 05, 2010

    Shop is correct in not immediately blaming the O2 sensor. Likely it is reading a bad fuel mixture and can't read that far out of range. Most often that kind of problem turns out to be either a coolant sensor or intake air temp sensor that is out of range, a small vacuum leak that closes up as the engine gets warmer or a purge system that is malfunctioning and permitting raw fuel or fuel vapor to get into the airstream either at the wrong time or in too much volume.
    The major problem at dealerships is that the pay structure prevents a good tech to take the necessary time to do intensive testing. I've seen many good techs that simply must get on to other work or they risk not "making their numbers". You can do many simple tests using a digital multi meter and a haynes or chiltons manual as a guide. It takes time, but since the problem is not going to cause your engine to fail, it may be worth the effort to do this, or find a smaller private shop with a really good reputation in regards to diagnostics that can take the time to do careful individual system tests. Also, as the system is controlled by a computer, it may have developed a "glitch" that corrects itself. I know many shops that keep a bunch of good computers that they can just plug in and check to see if anything changes....Sounds a bit "backyard" but it often saves a lot of time. I wish I could offer a better answer but the system is complex and guessing is just that.


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