Question about 1992 Lexus Es 300

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No brake fluid flow to passenger front caliper, bleeder and line to bleeder is dry, (yet still some brake when pressing pedal)

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  • Lexus Master
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Might be that the hole on the bleed nipple inside is blocked or the bleed nipple itself, take it out copletly and let it drip out by itself if it does do that then its not blocked if still no signe of fluid te it is blocked internally hope this helps a bit

Posted on Feb 03, 2010

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Put on new front calipers and hoses whenn bleeding i get fluid but no pedal not enough pressure to move piston in caliper


When you are bleeding brakes, the pressure from the pressed brake pedal is pushing the fluid out the bleeder screw. The caliper piston will not move until you close the bleeder valve and press the brake pedal.

Sep 19, 2017 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to bleed brakes


to bleed brakes is a relatively easy job for two people although it can be done by one without a pressure bleeder.NOTE keep brake fluid levels above minimum at all times during bleeding ( forgot to do it my self on more than one occasion and had to start over, trying to do too much at once) To do by your self you will need the correct ring spanner for bleed nipple, a clear tube that is a tight fit on bleed nipple ( long enough to reach down to floor) and a container with about an inch of brake fluid in it (glass jar will do it, is easier to see fluid level), Starting with the cylinder/caliper at rear furtherts from master cyl (longest brake line from tee piece) place spanner on bleeder then fit tube, placing other end of tube into container below level of fluid,. release master cyl cap/lid (no need to remove completely) undo bleeder half a turn, watch for fluid in clear tube. this should start to flow within 10 to 15 seconds (if bleeder isn't blocked with road grime clean if required), if fluid doesn't flow by it self (it should but) tighten bleeder then release again quarter of a turn, apply foot pressure to brake pedal, hold pressure on pedal till you feel pedal dropping towards the floor (half inch of pedal travel should be enough) ( fluid in container will stop air being drawn into brake lines when you release brake pedal) check clear tube for fluid/bubbles, open bleeder further quarter turn, if fluid has filled clear tube allow fluid to fill container a further eight of an inch, then close off bleeder (make sure no bubbles appear in tube whilst this is happening other wise drain more fluid till only brake fluid is visible in tube ) repeat process on opposite wheel cyl/caliper, then repeat process on front caliper furthest from master cyl , then the caliper closest to master cyl last. If two people are doing the bleeding the same clear tube and container are used,as is the order in which cyl/calipers are bled. One sits in the car and pumps the pedal until it has some resistance under foot (Whilst the pedal is held down) second person releases bleeder, first person keeps pressure on pedal whilst bleeder is released (pedal will travel towards the floor) when pedal has been depressed as far as it will travel second person closes bleeder before, the first person releases pedal and pumps the pedal again repeating the process until no air bubbles appear in clear tube at this cyl/caliper before moving to next cyl/caliper. good communication must be maintained to make this process hassle free

Jun 22, 2012 | 2000 Dodge Caravan

1 Answer

I replaced the whole back break line,as i try to bleed them i get fluid out of the front passenger side and the back driver side,but nothing out of the other two.whats the problem?


Hi, your proportioning valve is stuck. Take the caps off and recenter the one stuck valve. Then rebleed the system using the procedure below. Thanks for using fixya.

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For those of us who are not fortunate enough to have access to a power bleeding tool, the manual brake bleeding procedure will quite adequately remove air from the hydraulic system. The major difference between the pressure and manual bleeding procedures is that the manual method takes more time and will require help from an assistant. One person must depress the brake pedal, while another opens and closes the bleeder screws.
  1. Deplete the vacuum reserve by applying the brakes several times with the ignition OFF .
  2. Clean the top of the master cylinder, remove the cover and fill the reservoirs with clean fluid.
  3. The master cylinder must be bled first if it is suspected to contain air. If the master cylinder was removed and bench bled before installation it must still be bled, but it should take less time and effort. Bleed the master cylinder as follows:
    1. Position a container under the master cylinder to catch the brake fluid.
    2. Loosen the front brake line(s) at the master cylinder and allow the fluid to flow from the front port.




WARNING Do not allow brake fluid to spill on or come in contact with the vehicle's finish as it will remove the paint. In case of a spill, immediately flush the area with water.

  1. Tighten the line connection(s).
  2. Have an assistant depress and hold the brake pedal.
  3. Loosen the line connection(s) again, allowing air to escape from the master cylinder.
  4. Tighten the line(s), then have the assistant release the brake pedal and wait for 15 seconds.
  5. Repeat steps D through F until the line(s) are free of air.
  6. When finished bleeding the air from the master cylinder, tighten the line connections to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
  7. Repeat steps B through H, only with the master cylinder rear pipe fitting(s).

  1. Refill the master cylinder with fresh brake fluid.



WARNING Never reuse brake fluid that has been bled from the system.

  1. If a single line or fitting was the only hydraulic line disconnected, then only the caliper(s) or wheel cylinder(s) affected by that line must be bled. If the master cylinder required bleeding, then all calipers and wheel cylinders must be bled in the proper sequence:
    1. Right rear
    2. Left rear
    3. Right front
    4. Left front

  2. Bleed the individual calipers or wheel cylinders as follows:
    1. Place a suitable wrench over the bleeder screw and attach a clear plastic hose over the screw end. Be sure the hose is seated snugly on the screw or you may be squirted with brake fluid.
    2. Submerge the other end of the tube in a transparent container of clean brake fluid.
    3. With the help of an assistant, apply the brake pedal slowly and hold.


During the bleeding procedure, make sure your assistant does NOT release the brake pedal while a fitting is loosened or while a bleeder screw is opening. Air will be drawn back into the system.
  1. While the assistant continues to apply pressure to the brake pedal, loosen the bleeder screw, and watch for air bubbles in the container.

Be very careful when loosening the wheel cylinder and brake caliper bleeding screws. The bleeder screws often rust in position and may easily break off if forced. To help prevent the possibility of breaking a bleeder screw, spray it with some penetrating oil before attempting to loosen it. Installing a new bleeder screw will often require removal of the component and may include overhaul or replacement of the wheel cylinder/caliper.
  1. Tighten the bleeder screw.
  2. Instruct the assistant to release the brake pedal.
  3. Wait approximately 15 seconds, and instruct the assistant to depress the brake pedal again.

Remember, if the reservoir is allowed to empty of fluid during the procedure, air will be drawn into the system and the bleeding procedure must be restarted at the master cylinder assembly.
  1. Repeat steps C through F until there are no air bubbles present in the container.

  1. Check the pedal for a hard feeling with the engine not running. If the pedal is soft, repeat the bleeding procedure until a firm pedal is obtained.
  2. If the brake warning light is on, depress the brake pedal firmly. If there is no air in the system, the light will go out.
  3. Once all the air is bled from the system, install the bleeder screw caps.
  4. After bleeding, make sure that a firm pedal is achieved before attempting to move the vehicle.

Feb 14, 2011 | 1994 Pontiac Grand Am

1 Answer

How can i bleed the brakes in my 91 skylark?


on the back side of calipers you will see a small bleed fitting -- attach a small 1/4 inch CLEAR hose to this fitting and run it into a catch bottle ( of some kind ). top off the brake fluid reservoir with fluid. now you will need a helper to sit in the drivers seat and ready your commands. use a small wrench and turn the bleed fitting counter-clockwise ( only about 1/2 turn ) -- have your helper press down the brake pedal and hold it to the floor,, and with the brake pedal to the floor you need to close the bleeder,, as soon as it is closed - have your helper let up off the brake pedal,, now open the bleeder again and have them push and hold the pedal to the floor again,, close the bleeder -- have them release the pedal,,, continue this process until you see no air bubbles flowing out the bleeder ( thru the clear hose ). keep the reservoir topped off with fresh brake fluid ( do not let it run dry or you will have to bleed the lines again ). repeat these steps for all calipers on the car and you will be good to go. --- also keep in mind that as soon as all the air is bled from the system -- when you pump the brakes, the pedal should get very hard and stiff,, if it goes to the floor after you have bled the system - then you still have air in one of the lines and you will need to continue bleeding.

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Jan 24, 2011 | 1991 Buick Skylark

1 Answer

Have an 89 festiva changed 5 master cylinders and still cant bleed front driver and rear pass wheel and also changed distribution block 3 times. i cant bleed it rite from the front port of the master...


Section 06-06: Hydraulic Brake System 1992 Festiva Workshop Manual GENERAL SERVICE OPERATIONS Manual Bleeding
  1. Read Hydraulic System Bleeding General Information.
  1. Clean all dirt from the master cylinder filler cap.
  1. Fill the master cylinder with the specified brake fluid. During the bleeding operation do not allow the master cylinder to run dry.
  1. If the master cylinder is known or suspected to contain air it must be bled before the wheel cylinders or calipers. To bleed the master cylinder, loosen the front line fitting and have an assistant push the brake pedal slowly through its full travel. While the assistant holds the pedal, tighten the brake line fitting. After the line fitting is tightened, the assistant may release the brake pedal. Repeat this procedure on the rear brake line. Repeat the entire process several times to ensure all air has been removed from the master cylinder.
  1. Remove the bleeder screw cap from the appropriate rear wheel cylinder.
  1. Position a box end wrench on the bleeder fitting.
  1. Attach a rubber hose to the bleeder fitting. The hose has to fit snugly around the bleeder fitting.
  1. Submerge the free end of the hose in a container partially filled with brake fluid.
  1. Loosen the bleeder fitting approximately three quarters of a turn.
  1. Have an assistant push the brake pedal slowly through its full travel and hold it there.
  1. Close the bleeder fitting.
  1. Have the assistant release the brake pedal.
  1. Repeat Steps 9 through 12 until air bubbles cease to appear at the submerged end of the bleeder hose.
  1. When the fluid entering the bottle is completely free of bubbles, tighten the bleeder screw, remove the bleeder hose, and install the bleeder screw cap.
  1. Repeat Steps 5 through 14 at the appropriate diagonal front caliper.
  1. Check the master cylinder fluid level. If necessary fill it to the correct level with the specified brake fluid.
  1. Check pedal feel. If the pedal remains spongy, repeat the bleeding process or, if necessary, refer to Diagnosis and Testing in Section 06-00.

Jan 04, 2011 | 1991 Ford Festiva

1 Answer

I put 2 front brakes shoes on my 1995 Nissan Maxima,what is the correct way to bleed my brakes?Is their any order that i need to follow?


Did you open the bleeder screws at all. If not you may not need to bleed the brakes just pump the pedal to bring the caliper pistons out and your pedal should feel fine. If you just want to blled anyways open all your bleeder srews and as the fluid level in your brake master cylider goes down refill with new dot 3 brake fluid (do not alow the master cylider to drain completely). Close bleeders when you get clean fluid through. Start at passenger rear corner and have a buddy press the brake pedal down. open bleeder, close bleeder after squirt of fluid then have buddy release pedal. Do this a couple of time per corner. Go from pass rear to drivers rear then pass. front ending with driver front. You just flushed your brake fluid. Hope this helps.

Oct 05, 2010 | 1995 Nissan Maxima

1 Answer

Brakes only working on driver side, rear and front, no brakes on passenger side rear and front. fluid good, lines good.


There only a few things that would cause this that you need to check, first start at the front wheel that doesnt work, have someone applie the brake open the bleeder screw if fluid sprays then caliper is bad or caliper slides are frozen, if no fluid comes out then you have a bad brake hose at that wheel, do the same to rear if fluid comes out of bleeder in rear then wheel cylinders are no good if no fluid comes out then brake hose to rear wheels is no good, make sure to have pedal pressed and repush pedal when checking the rear. hope this helps.

Aug 28, 2010 | 1994 Plymouth Voyager

2 Answers

Having trouble bleeding brakes on my ford f150 4x4 i had to put a new caliper on left front.i bled the front brakes but still cant gmuch of a pedal.is  there a switch or valve i need to turn off so...


1 Siphon off the old brake fluid in the master cylinder reservoir under the hood.
2 Fill the reservoir with new brake fluid (don't reuse old fluid as it holds moisture and will corrode your brake system).

3 Start with the brake farthest from the Master cylinder, usually rear wheel, passenger side. Pull off the rubber cover on the bleeder valve. Attach the aquarium air line to the nipple on the bleeder.

4 Have your assistant pump the brake pedal up and down 3-4 times, then hold the pedal down fairly hard.
5 Open the bleeder, let fluid flow out through the air line into a waste container. (preferrably a clear bottle so you can see any air bubbles escaping the system). When the fluid stops and your assistant's foot hits the firewall (brake pedal all the way down), close the bleeder valve immediately!
6 Go to step #4 above and drain more fluid out of the bleeder valve until clean fluid comes out. Check the master cylinder every time and top it up as necessary. This procedure uses lots of fluid.

7 Now move to the rear brake on the driver's side. Go to step #4 and repeat the same procedures above until clean fluid comes out of the bleeder valve and no bubbles.
8 Next is the front brake, passenger side, same procedure. Then the drivers side and the same procedure.
9 When finished check for any leaks, remount rubber covers on the bleeder valve nipples. Remount all wheels, re-torque lug nuts after 50-100 miles of driving.
10 Start vehicle and depress the brake pedal. It should feel much less spongy than before this procedure. If not, there is air in the system, start over. Bleed everything again.
Note: if you assistant releases the brake pedal before you can close the bleeder valve then air will be introduced into the brake lines. This is no good! Before you start tell your assistant you will tell him/her PUMP, HOLD DOWN, RELEASE commands.

That's it, you're done. Congratulate yourself on saving some cash instead of handing it over to a mechanic.

May 13, 2009 | 2004 Ford F150

1 Answer

Brakes


All you have to do is take the calipers off crack open the bleeder of the side you are working on leave the old pad in the caliper and press the pad in as far as it will go tighten bleeder clean the rotors with brake clean to get the oily substance off they put on during shipping to keep them from rusting put rotor back in place and put new pads in caliper if they give you grease for the caliper sliders put some on the caliper bolts and sliders the thing the bolts go into on the caliper so they move fairly easy this way your brakes will work better and last longer put caliper back in place tighten caliper bolts snug usually with a ratchet like a good 3/8 ratchet then do the other side fill up the master cylinder with proper brake fluid usually dot3 but should say on master cylinder cap bleed brakes if you did just the front bleed the passenger side first pump pedal a few times dont go all the way to the floor have someone open the bleeder on the right front passenger front while holding pedal down with just a little pressure one foot on pedal one under pedal so it dont go to the floor then do the same for the other side check fluid start vehicle if pedal is good go for a test drive and thats it.

Jan 06, 2009 | 2005 Ford F-150

2 Answers

Bleeding abs brakes


Try using a pressure bleeder. It will force the air out. Works every time.

Nov 08, 2008 | 2001 Ford Mustang

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