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does not matter cores have no POLARITY ever.
some rare cars have heater hose VALVE. there, but most do not.
the core is only a radiator (liquid to air heat exhanger)with 2 pipes
it's all just pipe inside core and fins
no magic at all.
yes one hose is out and other is Input
but the core does no care. it only needs max flow.
yes the service manual covers this.(path day 1 new) yes.
if using oEM hoses preformed ,any generic car water hose works (auto stoles off a hose reel there)
the preformed hoses is he only reason to worry order here.
I can see your old car and what is there 34years later.
and LOOKING IS Every Thing doing car repairs.
says the blind.
It usually doesn't matter-it just circulates coolant through the core and returns it. But the hose going to the water pump is the return hose from the core. The other hose from the cylinder head or intake manifold is where the coolant comes from and going to the heater core. Take off the hose at the water pump and you will see a stream coming out with the engine running and the heater control on hot. Try this and if the stream is not good, try swapping the hoses at the core- I mean take the hose to water pump and fit it to the core's upper hose, and the inlet hose to the lower fitting. It shouldn't matter, but let us know.
What vehicle? Unless it has a check valve on it, it doesn't matter. If it bothers you, trace the route of the hoses and put the new ones on the side of the core to whatever direction the hose runs.
It don't matter where you put your heater hoses, coolent just goes in one and out the other, it don't matter whatsoever. Your problem is that your heater hoses are clogged up. Check where your hoses connected to your engine for blockages. If alot of corrosion is present, you stand a very good chance that your heater core may be clogged up as well. Wouldn't be a bad idea to clean out your coolent system with a good quality flush. Just to show you what i have found, check thes pictures, check red areas for blockages, and "c" is the inlet, "d" is outlet.(don't see why it matters tho)
make sure to check other end of hoses for blockages. inlet side goes to closest connection to waterpump.
Hi, my name is Shaun. I will do my best to help you with your problem. The good news is, for all intensive purposes, it really doesn't matter where the hoses go, as long as you are referring to the connections directly to the heater core. You should have two aluminum pipes coming out of your heater core where the rubber hoses attach. As long as the hose fits snugly, attach it. All the heater core is is a small radiator that cycles hot water from the block. You blow air across it and you have heat. There are no check valves or anything to worry about. One thing you do want to keep in mind when reattaching the hoses, though, is to reattach them in a way that allows them to conform to their most natural state. In other words, don't try to criss-cross them, stretch them, or twist them. This could result in leaks later on. Hope this helps. Have a great day!
common problem is the water resivor cracks up at the bottom... it appears that your water level is fine because the car doesnt over heat but i am willing to bet that resivor doesnt have water to the top. The radiator will hold just enough water to keep it cool. I replaced mine 3 times the sulution is doing to sound weird but go to the junk yard and get one off a murcury sable. dont know why but the sables res doesnt crack like that
Usually it doesn't matter, if there is a control valve to control the flow of water around or on the heater coil generally the hose coming from the intake which is a supply hose goes to the valve end of the heater coil
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