Question about 2002 Kia Sportage

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With in a 3month period after a recent clutch replacement the clutch was very spongy, and now it feels like its not disengaging all the way out. when we got it back there was bolts missing from the undercarrage and it never really felt tight at all. is there an adjustment or was it just poor work?

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Sounds like poor work, and you may have a bad clutch master or slave cylnder, being it was probably not bleed properly.

Posted on Feb 02, 2010

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I have a 1998 Dodge Dakota 3.9 with a 5 speed. I am having difficulties with the clutch and am trying to figure out if it is the clutch needing replaced or if it is the hydraulics.


Bad hydraulics (leaking/spongy) and worn out clutch have opposite symptoms. If the clutch does NOT ENGAGE - get the vehicle moving - you probably need to replace the clutch and/or pressure plate.
If the clutch does NOT DISENGAGE - you can't get the transmission into gear, or there is difficulty or grinding when trying to shift between gears - your hydraulic system is not moving the clutch release arm far enough to disengage the clutch.

Jun 09, 2017 | 1998 Dodge Dakota

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My clutch wont engage gears on my 98 corrola at low speed or at idle. I also cannot change gear. This has only just started. Can you tell me what the problem is?


Could be the clutch master or slave cylinder, or the clutch disc. The disc is not disengaging from the flywheel.

Sep 15, 2014 | 1998 Toyota Corolla

1 Answer

Pt cruiser clutch diagram


I recommend bleeding the clutch using instructions pasted from autozone.com below. As for the engine light, please get the computer scanned and send us the diagnostic trouble code.
Hydraulic System Bleeding NOTE
It is necessary to bleed the clutch hydraulic release system if the system has lost an excessive amount of fluid and has allowed air into the circuit. Air in the system typically results in a spongy pedal feel, and/or improper clutch release. If air cannot be removed from the system using this procedure, it is necessary to replace both the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder assemblies.

Except Turbocharged Models
  1. From driver's seat, actuate clutch pedal 60-100 times. Verify clutch operation/pedal feel. If pedal still feels spongy, or clutch does not fully disengage, excessive air is still trapped within the system. Perform the following procedure:
  2. Verify fluid level in clutch master cylinder reservoir. Top off with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary.
  3. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  4. Remove clutch slave cylinder assembly from the transaxle case, but do not disconnect from the system. Allow the slave cylinder hang, making it the lowest part of the system.
    CAUTION
    While slave cylinder is detached from the transaxle, DO NOT actuate the clutch master cylinder. Damage to the slave cylinder will result.
  5. Depress slave cylinder pushrod until it bottoms and then release. Repeat this at least ten times, forcing trapped air upwards and out of the system.
  6. Re-install slave cylinder into position. Torque slave cylinder to case bolt to 168 inch lbs. (19 Nm).
  7. Carefully lower the vehicle.
  8. Check and adjust clutch master cylinder fluid level. Actuate clutch pedal thirty (30) times. Verify clutch operation/pedal feel. If pedal still feels spongy, or clutch does not fully disengage, air is still trapped within the system. Repeat Step 3 through Step 7 until air is purged. If several attempts at purging air from the system are unsuccessful, replace both the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder assemblies.
  9. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  10. Carefully lower the vehicle.
  11. Top off clutch master cylinder fluid level with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary.
Turbocharged Models

NOTE
Due to the angle and design of the turbo hydraulic system components, gravity and pedal bleeding are less effective and less efficient than the reverse fluid injection method (reverse bleeding). Reverse bleeding is recommended for this system, and requires the use of commercially available injection bleeding equipment.

Alternate Procedure (Pedal Bleeding)
  1. Remove reservoir cap and inspect fluid level. Top off with DOT 3 Brake Fluid. Actuate clutch pedal briskly at least 50 times. Verify release system function. Repeat. If release system is still inoperative, continue with procedure.
  2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  3. Remove clutch bellhousing access cap to expose system bleed screw.
    WARNING
    Use care not to allow fluid to drain into clutch bellhousing. Excessive fluid will be agitated and sprayed around inside the clutch bellhousing by the rotating flywheel, contaminating the flywheel, disc, and pressure plate, resulting in poor clutch engagement.
  4. Using suitable socket/wrench, loosen bleed screw. Immediately install rubber hose to bleed screw to prevent fluid from entering clutch bellhousing. Tighten bleed screw gently with suitable wrench.
  5. Lower vehicle.
  6. Have helper actuate clutch pedal to floor.
  7. Place collection container at end of hose to capture expelled fluid.
  8. Using suitable wrench, break bleeder screw loose and tighten to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm). Do not over-tighten.
  9. Have helper release pedal, returning it to at-rest position, and then actuate pedal to floor.
  10. Break bleeder screw loose and tighten to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm). Do not over-tighten.
  11. Repeat procedure as necessary, keeping master cylinder reservoir full during the process, until air bubbles are no longer visible in collection container.
  12. When air bubbles are no longer visible, actuate clutch pedal briskly at least 50 times.
  13. Verify release system function and top off fluid as necessary.
Recommended Procedure (Reverse Bleeding)
  1. Remove reservoir cap and inspect fluid level. Top off with DOT 3 Brake Fluid. Actuate clutch pedal briskly at least 50 times. Verify release system function. Repeat. If release system is still inoperative, continue with procedure.
  2. Remove reservoir from bracket and empty into collection container.
  3. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  4. Remove clutch bellhousing access cap to expose system bleed screw.
    CAUTION
    Use care not to allow fluid to drain into clutch bellhousing. Excessive fluid will be agitated and sprayed around inside the clutch bellhousing by the rotating flywheel, contaminating the flywheel, disc, and pressure plate, resulting in poor clutch engagement.
  5. Using suitable socket/wrench, loosen bleed screw.


    Fig. Location of the bleed screw for the 2.4L engine
  6. Quickly attach hand operated bleed apparatus to bleed screw. Use care not to over-fill reservoir and spill fluid into engine compartment.
  7. Operate bleed gun sufficiently to expel air upward through circuit and out of master cylinder reservoir. Fill and empty reservoir three times.
  8. Remove bleed apparatus and tighten bleed screw to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm). Do not over-tighten.
  9. Carefully lower the vehicle.
  10. Top off reservoir with fluid, then return the cap.
  11. Verify system operation. Actuate clutch pedal 50 times. If necessary, repeat procedure until road test confirms that shift issues no longer exist.

May 20, 2017 | 2002 Chrysler PT Cruiser

1 Answer

Hi I have a 1986 Nissan pick up 4 dual cylinder 5 speed Replaced the whole clutch assembly and it wont go into gear put on new slave cylinder and she wont go into gear at all. could the tranny and...


Why was the clutch replaced in the fist place? will it go into gear with the engine off? if so, the shifter and linkage is ok. what happens if you put it in gear, and then crank the truck, it it tries to go, then the clutch is not releasing. how does the pedal feel? Spongy? normal? If it feels spongy and the slave is new, replace the master and bleed the air out, until it feels normal, like its pushing on the clutch

Dec 06, 2010 | Nissan Hardbody Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have a 2007 VW Touran, recently serviced. After a motorway run using the cruise control I often find the clutch feels as if it had lost all hydraulic pressure and I have to pump the pedal to get the...


It might be the brake & clutch fluid wrong because it is too old inside. First time change the brake & clutch fluid. If the problem persists then replace both clutch master hydraulic cylinder and clutch receiver hydraulic cylinder. Bleed also correctly the clutch hydraulic line!

Sep 06, 2010 | 2009 Volkswagen Routan

1 Answer

2002 Kia Sportage Car spongy clutch pedal Answer The clutch pedal is very spongy, and sometime has not pressure on the pedal at all when the vehicle... (More) The clutch pedal is very spongy, and sometime...


The spoongy feeling is a defective clutch slave cylinder. Generally a cluthc will not slip because of a pressure issue with hydaulics.

If the clutch is slipping with your foot off the pedal it defineately is time for a clutch job... Best bet is to get it inspected to be sure.

Jan 04, 2010 | 2002 Kia Sportage

1 Answer

2001 hyundai accent clutch feels spongy and the


seems to be a worn clutch... Take/Tow your vehicle to an authorized Hyundai dealership and pay the diagnostic fee... they will tell you exactly what the problem is and the cost of parts/labor to fix it... at least this way you'll know what the problem is and what's required to fix it.

Sep 23, 2009 | 2001 Hyundai Accent

1 Answer

Clutch stays engaged and stays on the floor 97 Nissan Maxima


I'm going to need more information. Does the peddal feel the same? Do you have any weird vibrations? My first feeling is that your Throw out bearing is bad, in which case you will need to replace the clutch. Second is that your Hydraulic system on the clutch has a leak or is dry. let me know.

Jan 09, 2009 | 1990 Nissan 300ZX

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