Question about 2003 Ford F350 Super Duty DRW SuperCab

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Lack of power using way more fuel and hissing by the firewall , i unpluged hose off wste gate box , pretty well same thing happening, maybe bit les power

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One of your turbo boots or intake boots is off or has a hole in it! Could be either cracked or has come loose of the clamp. This is your hissing noise your hearing. It means the turbo is making the boost but it is not getting to your engine. Its leaking out the boot. No boost no power! Poor performance and bad fuel economy too. You need to check all of your boots and clamps. If you say it is by the firewall then start on the side that the hiss seems to be comming from. DONT unplug your turbo waste gate as you can damage your turbo or other engine components! your waste gate allows excess pressure not needed on your exhaust side to escape.

Posted on Feb 02, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Hi , my 2.8 td pajero 1994 has an acceleration fault.. It idles and revs fine but when acceleraiting up a hill there is a hissing sound from the engine bay and power drops. Any ideas P,EASE )


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To me lack of power means Compression, Fuel, Spark.
Hissing sounds like Compression - vacuum leak--either a hose, valve, or gasket. Getting a code?
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same car with the AC problem. Timing is not going to make this all happen.

  • If its jaulting as an automatic, through the gears, then probably check and change the fluid and the filter in the transmission. Usual jolting is from lack of fluid pressure, caused by lack of or blocked filter.

  • Start up could be anything from a weak battery to lack of fuel/choke. Try a new fuel filter, air filter element, check your oil and change the spark plugs.

(Symptoms of bad ignition timing are misfire and run on also extreme lack of power and rough idle. The car will also shudder and keep running a few seconds after the key is switched off.)

  • The steering shaking from left to right at low speed could be a few things. Is it only happening at low speed? Sometimes its hard to tell at high speed as it is happening so fast the frequency is almost unable to be felt. However when you brake it should be pretty strong if its a mechanical fault, ie disc warped or bent wheel.
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Here is a picture of a standard booster/master cylinder.
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Another (DANGEROUS) option if the booster itself is leaking is to disconnect the hose from the brake master cylinder, and clamp it off/plug the hose. This is the equivalent of having manual breaks, and will require a lot of pressure to engage the brakes (normally you are compressed air assisted by the booster). The only reason to do this is if the tear is large enough that you are losing engine power because of it. This will allow you to get to the next exit, next gas station, or (in some cases) 3 states away.

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