Question about 1999 Pontiac Montana

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Montana 1999 tach does not work

What would cause a pontiac montana tachometer not to work and the engine to miss other than a distributor module? I changed the module and coils and did a tune up and it misses and bucks at cruising speed.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

SOURCE: 1998 Sunfire rough running (missfire) common causes?

check the coils my 98 had a crack coil that drove me nuts. If thats the problem make sure you replace both ignition coils

Posted on Jun 18, 2008

SOURCE: 98 civic lx where is ignition coil?? ++

IT'S A BLUE WIRE ON THE BACK OF THE CONNECTOR THAT WOULD NORMALLY GO TO THE FACTORY TACHOMETER IN THE DASH. YOU HAVE TO REMOVE THE DASH GAUGE CLUSTER TO GET AT THE CONNECTOR. THE CONNECTOR WILL NOT BE PLUGGED INTO ANYTHING IF YOU DON'T HAVE A FACTORY TACHOMETER (DX, CX, HX ETC...YOU WILL HAVE TO SPLICE INTO OR CUT THE BLUE WIRE FROM THE PLUG. IT GOES TO TACH SIGNAL WIRE ON YOUR NEW TACH.

Posted on Jun 24, 2008

  • 98 Answers

SOURCE: change the spark plug for 1999 pontiac montana

Ok, based on the firing order from your vehicle there are (6) cylinders, and (3) are on the front of the engine and (3) are on the back. I have never even looked under the hood of one of these types of vehicles, however, You MAY need to remove the large plastic engine covering (not sure for your vehicle). If that is the case you may have to remove the engine oil (tube). The cap that you open up to add oil, twist and pull on the actual tube and it should twist off (if needed on this vehicle). Once this is removed if requiered on your vehicle, you can then remove the large plastic covering to have access to each cylinder. Once the large plastic covering is removed, put the oil fill tube back in place for the moment so no contamination gets in your engine. I would start with the back side first because that is hardest. I checked on Autozone.com and they have it listed for this vehicle that the iginition coil is set up on the left side. You should see six wires coming from this area with (3) going to the front and (3) going to the back of the engine. Start on the back side with the whichever of these wires/cables goes to the left side of the back of the engine. Please only do one at a time to avoid confusion as to the placement. What I would do in all honesty if you are doing the tune-up is to replace the spark plug wires as well. What I have used on all of my vehicles and have had great success is NGK plugs and NAPA auto parts has plug wires Belden Maxx (this is only a suggestion and I am only sharing what has worked well for ME). OK, prior to starting what you will want to do is take each individual plug one at a time, and using a spark plug gap tool (readily available at all parts places) Place the non-porcelin end (the one that has the arc in it) into the gap tool at the lowest end and slide it around until you have reached the required gap. For this vehicle it is .60 Even if they tell you at the factory it is pre-gapped and you don't have to check it, believe me it is always a good idea. I just did a vehicle and all (6) were not gapped correctly. Put each one back in the box until needed. Once you have done this,starting on the back of the engine left side find the spark plug cable/wire that goes to that side and where it goes into the engine it will have an end with a boot on it. This covers the spark plug. Twist this boot off the spark plug, it may take some effort. Once that is off if you are replacing the spark plug wires take this one and match it up with the new set (They will be different lengths). Now for the fun part, removing the plug. Using a spark plug socket (available at parts places, has rubber on the inside to grip, and protect the socket) a small extention and your ratchet, place this over the plug and apply pressure until the plug begins to turn. Once you have the old plug out, place the new plug in the spark socket and thread it in by hand (it will be in the socket but don't use the ratchet yet. Once you have the plug in as far as you can by hand tighten it down with the ratchet (don't overtighten). Place the new or old spark plug wire (boot) over the new plug and move on to the next cylinder. Do each one the same way (ONE AT A TIME, to avoid confusion). This is a long explanation but I hope it will help someone...Thanks

Posted on Mar 02, 2009

  • 98 Answers

SOURCE: My 1999 pontiac montana rear sliding power door will not work

I went to bulldogsecurity.com and looked up the wiring diagram for this vehcle. However, prior to checking this part, I would check to see if you have a blown fuse. It doesn't hurt and only takes a few minutes. There should be a fuse for that either somewhere on the side of the dash or near the brake pedal area. If not it may be under the hood, but it should be inside the vehicle. You may have multiple fuse boxes. If it has (2) sliding doors it will have a wire for the auto doors in each kick panel (under the plastic trim/molding) when you open the door and look down you will see all of the trim/molding it should snap out or may be held in place with a screw or (2). Once you remove that you should see the wires. It says for the left side it is either light blue or black and the right side is definitely light blue. Trace this wire until you find out where it ends (the motor or switch to control the auto doors) Then test the switch/motor to see if it is bad.

Posted on Mar 02, 2009

c17hydro
  • 2984 Answers

SOURCE: 1969 pontiac firebird 350 has no spark new

Check this out....it will help you.


http://www.procarcare.com/icarumba/resourcecenter/encyclopedia/icar_resourcecenter_encyclopedia_ignition.asp

Posted on Mar 13, 2009

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1981 Corvette has an electical tachometer that is driven by impulses from the distributor. First, check for blown fuses, next make sure the tach wire is plugged into the distributor. Next bypass silver tach filter or capacitor located by manifold to see if the tach moves at all. If these steps do not reveal a change in tach operation, then the most obvious next step is to remove the tachometer and get a new board for the tachometer. Unscrew and remove cluster lens and then unscrew tach bezel, and gently pull out the tach noting position of insulators. I believe these boards are available still at local autoparts locations. Replace board, note position of insulators and reinstall tach, bezel and lens. Old corvette are cool and are pretty easy to work on! Should be fixed, enjoy!

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The tachometer in your truck is controlled by the Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC) module, which recieves engine speed information from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) via the digital communications network in your truck.

There may be an engine control problem that is causing your engine to run rough and cause your tachometer to not operate as well. However, there is no way that the tachometer itself is going to make the engine run poorly. The tachometer has no fuse of its own that does not also affect several other electrical circuits in your truck. Looking for the fuse as a possible fix for your problem is totally useless.

What you need to do is to scan your onboard computer network, incluuding the PCM, BCM, IPC and the ABS modules to see where the problem is located. It may even be a communications network error. There is no way of knowing for sure without establishing communications with the network and interfacing with all of the control modules that use the tachometer signal to perform certain functions.

PLEASE NOTE: Generic OBD code readers CANNOT perform the functions that will be needed to diagnose and repair this problem.

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first of all, pull off distributor cap and check for wear on inside and also inside cap. The tachometer is driven by the signal from the ICM (Ignition Control Module) located within the distributor. The signal is on the blue wire and usually when the ICM begins to go bad it can cause your tach to go crazy. If the ICM is ok the wiring needs to be looked at from distributor to tach guage. good day!

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Replaced distributor on my 1988 chevy c3500 pick up. 5.7 liter engine w/ tbi. not sure how to set timing? is advance going to change the value? looking for timing setting and procedure to reach setting...


Hi, I have pasted the procedure below. Your spec is 0 degrees (right at TDC).


CHECKING AND ADJUSTMENT

HEI Systems

  1. Start the engine and allow it to reach operating temperature. Stop the engine and connect the timing light to the No. 1 (left front) spark plug wire, at the plug or at the distributor cap. You can also use the No. 6 wire, if it is more convenient. Numbering is illustrated in this section.

Do not pierce the plug wire insulation with HEI; it will cause a miss. The best method is an inductive pickup timing light.
  1. Clean off the timing marks and mark the pulley or damper notch and timing scale with white chalk.
  2. Disconnect and plug the vacuum line at the distributor on models with a carburetor. This is done to prevent any distributor vacuum advance. On fuel injected models, disengage the timing connector which comes out of the harness conduit next to the distributor, this will put the system in the bypass mode. Check the underhood emission sticker for any other hoses or wires which may need to be disconnected.
  3. Start the engine and adjust the idle speed to that specified on the Underhood Emissions label. With automatic transmission, set the specified idle speed in Park. It will be too high, since it is normally (in most cases) adjusted in Drive. You can disconnect the idle solenoid, if any, to get the speed down. Otherwise, adjust the idle speed screw.

The tachometer connects to the TACH terminal on the distributor and to a ground on models with a carburetor. On models with fuel injection, the tachometer connects to the TACH terminal on the ignition coil. Some tachometers must connect to the TACH terminal and to the positive battery terminal. Some tachometers won't work with HEI.


WARNING Never ground the HEI TACH terminal; serious system damage will result.

  1. Aim the timing light at the pointer marks. Be careful not to touch the fan, because it may appear to be standing still. If the pulley or damper notch isn't aligned with the proper timing mark (see the Underhood Emissions label), the timing will have to be adjusted.

TDC or Top Dead Center corresponds to 0°B, or BTDC, or Before Top Dead Center may be shown as BEFORE. A, or ATDC, or After Top Dead Center may be shown as AFTER.
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  2. Turn the distributor slowly to adjust the timing, holding it by the body and not the cap. Turn the distributor in the direction of rotor rotation to ******, and against the direction of rotation to advance.
  3. Tighten the locknut. Check the timing again, in case the distributor moved slightly as you tightened it.
  4. Reinstall the distributor vacuum line or the timing connector. Correct the idle speed.
  5. Stop the engine and disconnect the timing light.

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