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I have a spark plug thAT BROKE WHEN i TRIED TO REMOVE. i WOLD LIKE TO KNOW HOW TO EXTRACT IT NOW. It has been suggested that it be bored out and rethreaded. It seems that parts of the spark plug could end up in the cyclinder. I have been assured thatthose can removed with a magnet. The electrode of spark plugs is copper which non magentic. Is this a safe procedure ?
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What vehicle are you servicing that you have to remove the ignition block to get to your spark plugs...?
The spark plugs should be accessible from the outside of the engine, no disassembly required. Look for the spark plug connectors, and remove them to reveal the plugs. From there, you can extract and replace them using a torque wrench.
Hi Henry:
Sounds lke you've two problems that may (or maybe not) be related, so let's try to isolate them and see how it works out.
- First, let's deal with the spark. I'd suggest you remove the sparkplugs. Don't mix them up since you want to look at their condition so you'll know what is going on in each cylinder. By looking at the tip of the plug you can tell if it's firing normally, fouled with oil, Contaminated with carbon, or wet with gas. Replace any bad plugs (best to do them all) and then drive normally until the problem happens again. Then recheck the plugs and you'll have zeroed right in on the problem.
- Radiator - By "not flowing" do you mean that the water pump is not working? The only other thing that would cause the coolant not to flow wold be a stuck closed thermostat, and the engine would overheat if that were the case.
With the engine cold, remove the radiator cap. Fill to the top. Install cap tight. Run until engine is warm and look for leaks.
SAFETY FIRST!!!
DO NOT REMOVE RADIATOR CAP or attempt to adjust any hose connections while engine is HOT.
If you have expertise in this you can break out the insulator ( ceramic bit) which will leave you with a hole in the plug metal bit. Then you can use an "eazy out" tool to extract the plug thread.. If there is no room for this it will be quicker and safer to remove the head as the thread is probably damaged .
If it is broken off below the surface you will have to try to drill it and use an easy out tool. And it may be frozen in the threads which is why it broke with you.
The symptoms you describe is most likely caused by a blown head gasket. The only time the oil will become milky white is when coolant enters the crankcase. It is possible for a head gasket to fail and not contaminate the oil. There are various ways to determine which bank has failed. The method I prefer is to remove all of the spark plugs but keep them in order, so you know which spark plug belongs to which cylinder. Examine them, spark plugs from a properly running engine should look almost identical. Take a look at this link, NGK how to read spark plugs faq, your spark plugs should look like the one in the first picture. The spark plug from the cylinder that is burn coolant will not look like any pictured in the link. It will look cleaner than the normal spark plug because the coolant will cause a steam cleaning effect on the spark plug. Another method is to remove all of the spark plugs and crank the engine. Look for signs of water or vapor being expelled from the spark plug bore. An extension of this method is to stuff a wad of paper towel into the spark plug bore just enough to cover the bore. Hold it in place with a screwdriver or wooden dowel and crank the engine. Than examine the paper towel for the presence of moisture. Both of these methods work better when the leak is pronounced, not so much if the leak is in its early stage or small. I do not use this method because I find it unreliable and inconsistent but it does work for many individuals. The other option is to replace the head gasket for both banks, but that would increase the cost of the job.
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