Question about 2004 Volkswagen R32

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Having trouble bleeding the braked on my vw golf r32....and help?? when the engine is off the pressure in the brakes in great, but as soon as i start the engine the pedal drops to the floor arghhh

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Open the rear d/s bleed nipple on the caliber use an empty bottle with a bit of pipe to catch the fulid an dont forget to put an extra hole in the top of the bottle to let the air escape keep the break fluid topped up an pump the pedal slowly when the bottel is filled all the air will be out of that line then complete the procedure on the oppsite side then the front this will solve ur problem of air in the lines higginsautorepair@hotmail.co.uk

Posted on Apr 03, 2010

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Chevy blazer brake pedal going to the floor when engine is running


has to be air,try bleeding without the brake pedal,just open
the bleeders and let gravity run the fluid out,takes awhile but works.
(master cyl.cover off )

Dec 25, 2012 | 1999 Chevrolet Blazer

1 Answer

Golf not braking on rear brakes also no pedal


You say you filled it with fluid after the repairs. You must also "bleed" the brake lines to purge any air that is trapped in them. Brake fluid provides the hydraulic compression that causes the brake pads to clamp to the brake rotor/drum. Air in the lines will prevent this as when the brake pedal is pressed, the fluid will simply pressurize the air in the lines and not activate the caliper/wheel cylinder. The reason you have front brakes is that modern vehicles have dual-reservoir master cylinders to prevent total brake loss in the event of a leak. This is why you still have front brakes as there is no air in those lines. You will need to bleed the rear brake lines at BOTH rear wheels to purge air rom the system. The procedure is fairly simple, though some cars with ABS have to have things done differently. I would recommend you check an online forum for you vehicle (simply Google "bleed rear brakes 20xx VW Golf) and see what comes up. It is easier to do with two people, but one can sometimes pull it off.

Jan 01, 2012 | Volkswagen F 224 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Bleeding the clutch after slave removal on Golf 4 1.6


Mk4 Brake and clutch fluid change and bleeding

First time I've done this on the R and after hearing various scare stories of it taking a while or being a tricky job involving Vag-com etc I thought I'd share my experience today.

Firstly you will need:

7mm spanner - front bleed nipple
11mm spanner - rear bleed nipple
9mm spanner - clutch bleed nipple
length of clear hose - makes clutch bleed easier
Eazi-Bleed Pressure Bleeder - because pedal pumping is for women
2 ltr brake fluid - Halfords Hi Perf 5.1 for me, run it in race cars and it works
spare wheel - for the Eazi-Bleed
R32 compressor - it's in the boot...keep that spare wheel at the right pressure

Ok, this is an easy job to do and very satisfying when done right, improved braking and clutch pedal motion...it should take you no more than about 1.5 hours all in and you should use around 1.5ltr of fluid.

Start off by connecting up the Eazi-bleed as per the instructions, making sure your spare wheel (I used the space saver from my Jag) is at 14.5-15psi. Once you've attached it to the reservoir and are sure there is no hissing (leaks), disconnect the tyre and fill the eazi-bleed with your new fluid. Re-attach tyre to build pressure.


Starting at offside side front, remove wheel, locate bleed nipple, remove cap, attach length of hose (directed at pan/bowl/jug), use the 7mm spanner to loosen the nipple just enough so the fluid starts to flow through. Don't open it too much and always keep an eye on the eazi-bleed bottle not getting too low on fluid). Keep an eye on the fluid coming through the pipe and when bubbles (there shouldn't really be any) have stopped and the fluid seems clear and clean. Tighten up the nipple.



Repeat the process, with front nearside, rear offside, rear nearside...eachtime checking the eazi-bleed bottle (topping up when needed as per instructions) and the condition of the fluid. You should use around 1ltr on the brakes as you're flushing the rubbish dot 4 as well as bleeding them.

With that all done, locate the bleed nipple for the clutch. It's right between the battery and engine and fairly accessible. Again, remove the nipple, fit your pipe, then loosen around 1/4 turn to see the fluid come out fairly quickly..you may want to fill up the eazi-bleed before starting this as it'll take about 500ml to do.

Pump the clutch pedal by hand, it'll go straight to the floor...it's normal. Pump it around 15-20 times keeping an eye on the EB bottle, you should notice some pressure come back to the pedal although it still won't return itself without you pulling it up.

Tighten up the bleed nipple, making sure when you remove the pipe to not get any on your car or paintwork. Disconnect the tyre, replace the reservoir cap and go test your silky smooth clutch.



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Mar 11, 2011 | 2001 Volkswagen Golf

1 Answer

Hi there i have a 98 vw golf which i have changed the clutch master cylinder and the slave cylinder ive pumped the oil back into the system from the nipple on the slave cylinder until the oil came up into...


I would start by draining the oil out and replacing it with brake fluid added into the reservoir and drained down and out the nipple. then i would bleed the system, going to need a helper for this procedure, look on youtube to see someone bleeding a hydraulic clutch.

Dec 28, 2010 | 1998 Volkswagen Golf

1 Answer

Hi can you help i have a vw golf gttdi on an 02 plate ive tried everything to get the brakes working but still when i turn the engine on they go soft


they will go soft a bit when engine runs as the servo is applying a lot more pressure its normal ,make sure you have removed the rear brake drums and adjusted the back brakes up manually and the pedal will go hard and the handbrake will tighten up as well

Nov 28, 2010 | 2002 Volkswagen Golf

1 Answer

The brake lights (all 3) on my VW Sharan do not work although there is an intermittent flashing. At the same time the Glo Plug light is flashing. what is the cure?


There is a recall on the brake light switch. VW should replace it for free.

-----------------------------------------------------------------
Defective brake lights on Golf, GTI, Jetta, New Beetle and R32 are a potential safety hazard and should be replaced. February 26, 2007 - NEW YORK (CNNMoney.com) -- Around 800,000 Volkswagen vehicles have been recalled Monday because of faulty brake lights, the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration said.
The 790,000 vehicles include Jettas, New Beetles, Golfs, GTIs and R32s...all in the United States.
The specific years and models affected are:
  • 1999-2005 Jetta sedans
  • 2001-2005 Jetta wagons
  • 1998-2007 New Beetle
  • 2003-2007 New Beetle Convertibles
  • 1999-2006 Golfs and GTIs
  • 2004 R32
The malfunctioning brake lights and brake light switches could fail to come on or remain stuck on.
This recall expands on one announced by Europe's No. 1 carmaker last year, when 362,000 Jettas and New Beetles were recalled due to the same defective part.
Volkswagen said that dealers will immediately be prepared to accept service appointments to perform the repair at no charge, but the notification process isn't scheduled to begin until April.
NHTSA did not say if any injuries had been reported linked to the defective brake lights.

Sep 25, 2010 | 2002 Volkswagen Jetta TDI

1 Answer

Changed the 2 rear caliperson my x reg vw golf as the rightside one was siezed now i'm not getting any brakes even after i tried bleeding it. jase


Are the calipers new, refurbished or used? If it's used then chances are they are seized or have rusty slidders that need cleaning and grease. If they are refurbished or new then there is no pressure going inside the piston so keep bleeding it till you are certain that clean new fluid is coming out of the the bleeder valve. Try bleeding the system while engine is running. The booster will be under vacuum and might do the trick. Note: exercise all safety precautions while repairing a vehicle that is operating above ground.

Dec 23, 2009 | 2000 Volkswagen Golf

1 Answer

Can't get front brakes to work


fill master cylinder, slowly close of brake lines to be sure you have pressure from master cylinder, pump brakes to check master, check that calipers were seated in housing properly

Aug 08, 2009 | 1997 Volkswagen Golf

1 Answer

Brake bleeding procedure on 2000 vw golf


get a one man bleeder kit from halfords (about £7) and then you can go around the car and bleed the brakes without a assistant, you just attach the tool to the nipple on the caliper, loosen the nut, press the brake pedel a few times till there is no more bubbles in the hose and then move on to the next corner, there is a specific way to go around the car but if you start at the back and finish at the front it should be ok

Dec 18, 2008 | 2000 Volkswagen Golf

1 Answer

Vw golf brakes rear seized


You have to clamp the flexible break hose with the appropriate tool that will not damage hose so that no pressure can go back up the break line when then piston is wound back.You crack the bleed nipple just enough that it only flows out when the pressure from the piston being wound back in pushes it out.Once piston is all the way back in retighten the bleed nipple,reassemble caliper etc and bleed.The reason you vent off fluid this way is not to put back pressure on the ABS,Bleeding the brakes is easier and the worst of the fluid(most stressed)is evacuated from the brake lines.Last thing top up the master cylinder with exactly the same fluid that is in the vehicle.Mixing fluids can be hazardous in respect of the ABS and seals throughout the brake system.When winding your pistons take special care as the pistons wind back in in opposite directions.

Oct 31, 2008 | 2000 Volkswagen Golf

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