Question about 1995 Dodge Dakota

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Has accesory power but ignition does nothing when held in start position.all battery conections are good,changed neutral safety switch and ignition switch,changed relay but still no luck!!

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Not to be asking or saying dumb things but have you checked to see if your starter is even getting power. I't constantly gets power and a signal wire engages it to start because if it is than your starter is bad, if not than start trouble shooting from there up.

Posted on Feb 01, 2010


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When the vehicle doesn't start, you will need to check the purple wire at the starter solenoid for power when the key is held in the crank position. If there is power during this procedure, the starter will be defective. If no power, possible ignition switch... neutral safety switch..starter relay ( if equipped ) or wiring problem

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2000 Pontiac sunfire won't start makes no noise when turn key over . headlights and radio work and dome light .. I have replaced steering column and ignition switch

This could be a couple different things causing your No-start condition. first thing I would check (Battery is good) access the starter solenoid, the small single wire connection is the start signal. Test for 12 volts here with DVOM or test light while someone turns the key. If there is 12 volts reading, the starter solenoid is defective. If there isn't 12 volts reading check all the fuses (with test light).
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The yellow wire is the start wire out of the ignition switch, and it should have voltage when and only when the key is held in start. But the switch has to have power going to it, for it to send power out on the start wire. The smaller or second red cable from the positive battery post is where the ignition switch gets power from. The cable turns into one or more fusible links (for circuit protection) and Fusible Link C is the one for the ignition switch. A red, hot-at-all- times wire then goes from the link, splices into two red wires and both go into the ignition switch.

Now back to the yellow wire in start: from the switch it goes to the park/neutral position switch, and in park or in neutral this switch is closed, so power goes on through the switch and out on a purple wire to the starter solenoid.

That is that part of your starting circuit, Victor. The purple wire should have voltage with key in start, and gear in park or neutral. Then the starter should crank the engine over. If it doesn't, trace it back-all the way to the battery if necessary. New switch, new solenoid, (?battery connections good and tight?), could be your park neutral safety switch.

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Check if the small wire on the starter has power with the key held in crank position. If battery voltage there, either bad battery cables or connections, or the starter solenoid has a malfunction. If no power when key held in start, it could be the safety switch (a clutch interlock switch on manual transmissions, or a park/neutral switch on automatics). You may need a wiring diagram to see the start circuit from ignition switch to the starter solenoid-some have a start relay in that circuit.
Find wiring diagrams at
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What about with the key in the on position -do the warning lights and gauges turn on? That would mean the ignition switch has power and can turn on.
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Won't turn over- you mean won't start or the starter won't spin the engine over? If it won't start, ignition spark or fuel problem. If the engine won't crank, problem is in the start circuit- from battery to starter, and from battery to ignition switch to starter. Park/neutral safety switch is in circuit between key switch and starter.

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have your fuses checked, or have your started checked, it might have burned out.

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Unless it was different back then, the switch should allow starting in park or neutral like today's safety switches. So it could be that switch, and your test was invalid. Unless, as I said, it was different back then.
This car has the start relay bolted on the fender, doesn't it? If it does, that relay needs to be grounded to the fender to work, might check that. And pull off the small wire to the relay and check for power on it while the key is held in start. This is the start wire from the ignition switch and should click the relay on to pass battery voltage to the starter. If power there, the relay may need replacing. If no power, work back to the neutral safety switch. Pull the connector off and check for a power signal to the connector with the key held in start. If no power, it may be the ignition switch. If it does have power, see if the switch itself has continuity with the shifter in park.
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It could be the solenoid or the start circuit. To check, pull off the wire at the starter solenoid and use a test light or voltmeter to check for power on that wire when the key is held in crank position. It should have power- if it does, likely the solenoid is bad. If no power on the solenoid start wire, then problem is in the start circuit between the ignition switch and the solenoid-check the neutral safety switch, check for power out of ignition switch on the start wire, with key held in crank position, check starter relay for proper operation. All these items are in the starting circuit.

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See if you have power at the solenoid wire when key is held in crank position. If you do, then battery connections are not tight, or you maybe got a defective starter or solenoid. If no power when key is held in cranking position, trace the start circuit backward from the starter solenoid to the ignition switch-starter relay and the neutral safety switch are in that path. Check for power in the start wire leaving the ignition switch, by backprobing with a voltmeter or testlight the ignition switch harness connector.

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