Question about 2004 Dodge Ram 1500

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Two wires 240 volts, iput a ohms meter from one wire to ground an i get a reading but not on the other wire, iget nothing

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Posted on Feb 01, 2010


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Neither turn signal works, radio won't work, hazards wont work. Put in new fuses and flasher module under dash. Still nothing.

What make , model and year vehicle ? Checking B+ voltage with a volt meter would be the proper way to test these electrical circuit problems . Looking at a wiring diagram also would be a good first step to see if these have anything in common . Everybody alway's checks fuse's but there is another part of the circuit that is forgot ! The ground side . These could share a common ground . Do you know what a electrical ground is . Lose body ground . There are videos on youtube on basic electrical trouble shooting , how to do voltage drop testing , how to use a DVOM - digital volt ohm meter . How to read a wiring diagram ! You can find free wiring diagrams at Basic Electricity for Service Techs Ohm law Current Flow Opens Shorts There is more two fixing electrical problem then guessing and just replacing parts .

Dec 31, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

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I have a 2007 Dodge Ram 35004x4 6.7 cummins and every time I hit a bump on the road all the lights on my dash pop up could anyone explain this

Sounds like a classic loose / poor connection issue. This can be a real problem to locate due to the cabling and difficulty seeing up under the dash. You'll need to find the point that is common too ALL affected lamps (be sure to determine if dome / map reading / courtesy / etc. lamps are in the same mix as the dash lights).

Please read the last paragraph FULLY before attempting!

A quick shortcut to solve 1/2 the troubleshooting is the locate a ground wire common to the circuit. It is best to probe w/ a test lamp clipped to 12VDC + and the probe tip to search for a ground in the circuit. One you find a ground, grab a multimeter and set it for DC volts and a range higher than 15 volts. We're looking to see zero volts when you press one probe to ground and the other to the suspected ground wire. If that's what you read, remove the probes from the wire and switch the meter to ohms at the "X1" (or lowest) scale. Touch the probes and adjust (if equipped) for a zero the resistance in Ohms reading - if no adjustment is possible, note the displayed value or needle position - this is the meter's "zero" Ohms value / position. Next, touch one probe to good ground and the other to the wire in question. We're looking for a very low value here. 0 - 4 Ohms (if you were able to zero the meter; or one 0 - 4 ohms higher than you read when trying to zero the meter. Continue probing for voltages and confirming with a resistance check until you find a wire with a low ohm value. If you can't find one, try banging on the dashboard sharply to simulate a bump in the road while watching the meter. If the ohm value drops - you're likely on a ground wire. To be sure - follow it back to either ground or the 12VDC (-) post. If you're certain that the wire in question goes to ground or the 12VDC (-) post - continue. Otherwise, you should stop.

Next, run a NEW wire (the same size or larger as the one you found) from a "good" ground or the (-) post of the battery and connect it to this wire you found. This will provide a new, solid (alternate) path to ground so that the original path doesn't matter if it as a good or lousy connection. The problem should be solved at this point. If you found a very low resistance value and couldn't get it any lower by banging the dash - the problem is likely to be on the 12 + side of the circuit. Start at the variable dimmer switch and work backward if bad - or forward (to the dash) if good.

The *best* and recommended way to do this is by using the vehicle wiring schematic in conjunction with the meter. Vehicle computers change voltages and high speed data buss wiring can play tricks on meters. You do not want to "tie" a data cable that looks like a poor ground to a good ground. Damage to the computer can result and end up costing you significantly more than the original repair cost of a loose wire.

Good luck!

Oct 15, 2015 | Dodge Cars & Trucks

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What are the parameters in ohms for the 1994 probe se tps ?

They are easier to test on the car 3 wires 1) 5 volt reference 1) signal return (testing this wire) last wire is ground. place + lead of a volt meter on the signal return wire with key on engine off negative lead on block or battery resting closed throttle should .3 to .8 volts slowly increase throttle opening and watch meter it should increase without voltage ever going lower E.G 1.0,1.1,1.2,1.3,.09,1.5 the .09 is a drop sensor bad this should continue to wide open throttle with a ending reading of 4.95 and above voltage. rdo this several times to catch a glitch.

May 11, 2014 | 1994 Ford Probe

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Battery drains while sitting

Hi Anonymous, perform the following tests:
1. Fill acid type batteries to proper levels.
2. Charge battery overnight at 1-2 amps you need 12.5 volts or better after charging.
3. Hook up battery positive cable, then with your multimeter on the milliamp scale connect one lead to the negative battery post and the other lead to the ground cable. Meter should read 3 milliamps or less, 10 milliamps with a radio, 15 milliamps with radio and CB. If your meter reads higher you need to isolate the circuit by pulling fuses and circuit breakers one at a time and observe meter for drop in aprerage then get out your test light and track down the short in that circuit.
3. Make sure all connections are clean and tight especially the negative cable at "BOTH" ends.
4. Hook up volt meter to battery and start engine, if meter falls below 9.5 v while cranking replace battery.
5. With engine running at 3600 RPM battery should read 14.3-14.7 volts if not continue tests.
6. Unplug voltage regulator from alternator at crankcase by front of primary cover.
7. To test voltage regulator go to:
8. With ohm meter, one lead grounded, touch alternator pin meter should read infinity, if not replace stator.
9. With ohm meter, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read 0.1 to 0.2 ohms on 1989 and later models. 0.2 to 0.4 ohms 1988 and earlier models, if not replace stator.
10. With volt meter set on AC scale, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read
16 to 20 volts AC for every 1000 RPM'S 1989 and later and 19 to 26 volts AC for every 1000 RPMS. If not replace rotor.
17. For a free wiring diagram please visit the website below. Good luck and have nice day.
Harley Davidson Wiring Diagrams and Schematics

Jul 06, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

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I have a 1994 cadallic seville none of my gages work and digital readout, every now and then it will all come on but shortly later it will all back out does anyone know what the problem may be.

Hello! It is more than likely being caused by a poor ground or battery connection to the panel...I can act as your guide if you have a multimeter, a wee bit of experience using one and are comfortable taking the panel out of the dash...Here are two test procedures if you intend on DIY...

+12 volts is supplied to the panel on an Orange wire in connector C-1 which is also tied to connector C-2 (both are Orange wires)...Ground is a Black/White wire in C-1 and C-2 as well...Using safety pins push the point into the rear of the connector into the Orange wires (one at a time)....Set the meter to read +12 volts...Clip the (+) meter probe to the safety pin and the (-) probe to bare metal...Start the engine and meter must show 12 volts without loss...

To test the ground (Black/White wires)...Turn engine off...Set meter on the X10 or X100 ohm scale...Use exactly the same procedure...One probe to both Black/Whites...The other to bare metal chassis...Must read zero ohms (dead short)...

Because nothing else is wrong it narrows it down to the battery and ground application to the panel...May also be a faulty connector or a loose one...Send a comment ...Guru...Saailer

Oct 19, 2011 | 1994 Cadillac Seville

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I have a 2001 E320, the problem is my left brake light doesn't work. I've change the bulb, switch the sockets( right to left). I was wondering if this a connection or fuse problem, if so where is...

You can't just swap around parts, you must perform actual electrical testing of the brake light circuit to do this use a Digital volt ohm meter (DVOM) to check and see if you have 12 volts at the socket when the brake is pressed, if you do show 12 volts then you need to check the ground wire connection, use an ohm meter and check the ground wire to the socket, should read less than 3 ohms from the ground to the chassis sheet metal, clean and repair as needed to restore ground if a problem is found. Brake lights can be on different fuses, one for left and one for right, check the owners manual for location of the brake light fuses, test them with an OHM meter, they can look ok and be open.

Sep 02, 2011 | 2003 Mercedes-Benz E-Class

1 Answer

Ford ranger 1988 gas gauge dont work

the fuel sender and the gauge needs to be checked. the wires run along the driver side frame rail. inside of the wire loom, look for a yellow wire w/ a red or grey stripe. test it with a ohm meter. the resistance reads between 240 ohms(empty) to 70 ohms(full). if you test and find reading betweeen 240 & 70 ohms, safe to say that that sender in the tank is fine. if you ground that wire directly to the chaasis, the gauge should max out to full. Good luck.

Feb 10, 2011 | Ford Ranger Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

2003 lincoln navigator. The air ride compressor will not come on. Checked all fusses and relays and they r good. The compressor will run when u straight wire it. Why won't it come on automatically?

I know you stated you checked all fuses and relay and they're ok but The 2003 Lincoln Navigator had two differently (wired) air ride systems. A early production and a late one, and I think I may have a good Idea of what your problem may be and will walk you through how to properly test the system. The early production navigators used a solid state compressor relay and the later production units used a standard style relay. The early ones with the solid state type has been known to have some problems and working for a Ford, Lincoln Dealer for 21 years I have replaced a good number of these solid state relay for a air ride compressor inoperative concern. There seems to be some confusion on the location of the solid state relay. I would advise you to look behind your front bumper on the passengers side of your vehicle (and below your headlight) and see if you have a 4 wire relay that's aluminum and finnd ribs on the front of it and I believe a black base where the wiring connector plugs in. (this will be mounted to the radiator support) if so, you Have got the early production style. I will walk you through how to test this relay and also help you to isolate the cause of your problem. I highly recommend using a volt ohm meter for these tests. I do not recommend using A TEST LIGHT due to the fact that you will be testing a circuit that is wired to the air ride control module, and there is a possibility of you damaging the module with a test light !!! I have been there, done that, NOT GOOD.
Ok with that said: your wire colors should be as follows:
one that's( gray and red)
another that's (light green and red)
another that's (dark blue and yellow)
and one that (light blue and pink).
Disconnect the connector at the relay and you'll be testing the wires in the connector (THAT HOOK UP TO THE RELAY). The air ride compressor and the air ride solid state relay share the same ground which is the light green and red wire.
Turn your volt ohm meter to dc volts scale and attach the black wire (NEGATIVE) lead of the volt ohm meter to the light green and red wire.
Hook the red lead of the volt ohm meter to the light blue and pink wire.
Here your volt meter should read battery voltage (of your car's battery) if not check the (F2-111) 50 amp designated fuse in the fuse box under the the dash on the passengers side (KICK PANEL).
If this fuse is ok, make sure you were making good contact with your test leads into the compressor relay connector.
If you're comfortable with the fact that you have a good connection at the relay connector and your fuse tested ok, then you have a ground problem at ground point G101 which is located right near the mounting location of the air ride relay.
If you had battery voltage when you tested between the (light green and red) and the light blue and pink wires, you have confirmed the power source and ground to the relay.
I should clarify myself at this point. The wires at the relay are as such: The ground is the light green and red wire, the light blue and pink is the fused power source to the relay, the dark blue and yellow wire is the relay trigger source from the air ride module to the air ride relay, and the grey and red is the relay output (battery +) to turn on the compressor. OK.
So now we're down to checking the trigger source to the relay and the relay output. At this point I want you to re-hook up the volt ohm meter with the meter still set at volts d/c scale and reconnect the (red lead) of the volt ohm meter to the (light blue and pink wire) and connect the (black) lead of the volt ohm meter to the dark blue and yellow wire (again at the relay connector).
Now this next step is best done with the help of an assistant!!
While watching your volt ohm meter, have your assistant turn on the key and open and close the drivers door two -to- three times. After cycling the door, you for a short time should see at least 5 volts minimum, if not battery voltage at your meter.
(this is a little bit unclear to me due to the fact the air ride module shows that the dark blue and yellow wire, as a ground from the air ride module to the relay. but does not clarify exactly what value that ground signal should be). I am referencing Fords own wiring diagram.
A solid state relay usally is allowed a trigger source of a lower voltage then a standard relay. If you find you have no voltage reading at your volt ohm on this test, you'll first want to check fuses F2-20 which is a 30 amp fuse and F2-27 which is a 5 amp fuse in the same fuse box as the F2-111 fuse you checked earlier.
The last test you need to make at the relay is checking the relay output to the compressor. This will be done by again using the volt ohm meter. This time you'll want to hook the black lead of the volt ohm meter to the light green and red wire at the reay connector and hook the red lead of the volt ohm meter to the grey and red wire at the relay connector. Again for this test, you'll need to have a assistant turn on the key, then recycle the drivers door again.
If the relay is working properly you should have battery voltage, aproximately 12 volts showing on your meter. If not and all other test procedures results were correct, you have a bad relay.
If you have 12 volts on this test we have confirmed the relay is good and the trigger signal from the air ride module is operating as designed.
If the pump runs like you said (when it is straight wired ) the remaining possiblity is a broke wire between the air ride relay to the air ride pump (this being the grey and red wire) which you can test by switching the volt ohm meter to the ohms scale and touching one lead of the meter to the grey and red wire at the relay connector and the other to the grey and red wire at the compressor (with the compressor and the relay both disconnected). Your reading here should be 0.5 ohms or less. If you have under 1.0 ohms you're ok but specs are 0. 5 or less.
If you have an auto ranging type ohm meter, be sure your reading in ohms and not kilo ohms or mega ohms.
If you find while performing the test from the air ride module to the air ride relay (dark blue and yellow wire) referenced as the trigger signal, incorrect and all fuses all checked o.k. then it is possible the air ride control module is defective. But, before condemning the module, there are a multitude of input signal;s to the module that would have to be checked.
WARNING: Make sure your tests are accurate. Good to check and re-check each test. Be confident of your results.
Inaccurate tests and inaccurate test results= unnecessary parts replacement. Results are large dollars spent when unneeded.
Hope this helps you out.thanks for using fixya

Jan 03, 2011 | 2003 Lincoln Navigator

1 Answer

Where does the blue an white wire go on the alternator an what does it do

an alternator has a power out wire a smaller power in wire to excite the field, a ground wire for the field and a large ground wire. Most ground wires are brown. And most power wires are red. You check check the wire for ground and power with and ohm/volt meter. Put the voltmeter on volts and connect the black wire from the meter to ground and the red to the wire, turn on the key and if you have volts it is a power wire. If no volts the turn the key off, select ohms and attach the black meter wire to ground (such as the frame or any metal) then attach the red wire to your blue/white wire if you show 0 ohms or low ohms then it is a ground.

Dec 11, 2010 | Saab 9 3 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

99 Ford Escort ZX2 Speedometer/Odometer doesn't work

I'm sorry, I have to ask, this is an automatic right? That out of the way, Does the trans shift different when you drove it with the Vss unplugged when you had the ohm meter on it? 8.5 volts? Something sounds wrong here. I'll have to look up the wiring diagram before I can say thats a bad reading but it should be battery voltage (14 volts running) or 5 volts?

Jul 08, 2010 | 1999 Ford Escort

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