Question about 1996 Chevrolet S-10 Pickup

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Not starting, smoke comes out of positive post when I try to boost. Not to sure if relay or loose wires...anybody could help???

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  • nposata Jan 31, 2010

    Thank you soooo much. I will get back to you if it worked.




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Make sure wire connections on the battery are clean and secure. Also make sure you can turn the engine by hand. Be aware that sometimes a wire can go bad right inside where the wire connects to the end.

Posted on Jan 31, 2010


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2005 gmc savanna 1500 starting problem changed starter and battery but when I hook up the battery charger and turn it to start boost it starts turn it off unhook charger it wont start

You have the solenoid exciter wire touch the bat terminal on the starter. You need to loosen the cable stud and turn and make sure it is not hitting the smaller terminal. the small wire should be going to the S post or terminal

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I have a 2003 f250 6.0 turbo it starts ruff and on highway when i get to 70mph and hit a hill it will slow down no matter how gas i give and if i floor it black smoke come out

these trucks are known for the egr cooler failing but I think you have turbo issues. maybe the wastegate is stuck open and not making any boost. check your boost guage (normal amount of boost?) make sure your vacume lines and wiring is atached with no leaks. Any check engine light?

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1988 Ford Taurus wont start-up just clicks...checked the battery terminal and tested battery. Help!

Here's what you could do take the battery out and make sure you put it on a charger tester and it's 100% good and fully charged , try the battery in the car and still if it wont start try a boost.If that still ends up with just a clicking sound , remove the starter and either get it tested for free via the seller or a shop etc or connect up some jumpers cables to it , the negative to the housing of the starter , the positive to the big terminal on the starter solenoid , use a heavy big screwdriver and hold the starter down by your foot then run the screwdriver across the ignition terminal and the bigger terminal and see if it works then , if it does you know its a wiring or relay issue etc with the car.

Hope that helps and best of luck.By the way it might not hurt to go over the power junctions , battery , alternator , starter, engine block ground post and all the grounds one by one clean the studs , wire connectors , bolts , nuts etc with a wire brush and sandpaper , plus a file and be sure you check the main wires for internal corrosion etc.

Jun 15, 2011 | 1988 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

Replaced starter except the wiring...i connected the ignition first and positive wire second. then connected the clip(black clip) made sure ignition went on first, positive wire second. Neither touching...

first you are going ot have ot check the wiring for any potential damage, this will entail you doing a continuity test and voltage test. you need to verify that you did not damage the wires in a way that will prevent them from delivering the charge to the starter. You will need to test the battery and make sure you did not damage any of the cells in the battery a simple voltage test with a multimeter will verify it is operating ( you will need between 11.8 and 12.6 volts) after you have made sure everything is in operating condition. Just as a side note you will want to be sure that all the fuses and relays are not damaged from the smoke out.
Once you have made sure all the wires and components are in good shape you will be able to repair the starter situation. When you try to reinstall the starter you will need to make sure that you are connecting the starter 'hot' (the battery positive) in the correct place on the starter, i imagine that you placed the battery hot on the wrong terminal of the starter and let the smoke out that way.

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When I try to start the van, it's a 1985 dodge ram wagen. Anyway I try to start it and I get nothing. The lights work, the radio works, but I get nothing from it when I try to start it. Replaced the...

Try boosting the van.If that works then you either need to clean the cables and battery posts or you need a battery.If boosting it does not work then you may need a starter or the cables to it have came loose,also the engine ground could be the culprit,if this is true then put your booster cables in this configuration;positive to positive and negative from the boosting cars negative post to your engine's block,find a good clean grounding point on the block and hook the clamp there.If the van starts then clean the factory ground point,replace the cable end,or replace the cable.Let me know if none of this info helps and i will give you more things to try.

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My car wont start

a) Do you have crank no start? (see entire write up)
b)No crank no start ,No dash lights?, ( battery, battery cables, ignition switch,,starter relay)

If you have symptom A then the affected items are , ignition switch, battery, battery cables, starter, starter relay ,coil, coil pack, ignition module ,Distributor cap ,rotor, (if applicable) spark plugs and wires.
The best thing to do is to first make sure your timing belt didn't break. As long as the engine cranks you can do this. Give the battery a 3 min charge . Then have a helper crank the vehicle while you observe the rotation of all the pulley's and belts. They must rotate together. If the vehicle has a distributor remove the cap, ground the coil wire and remove fuel pump relay ( to disconnect the pump for testing)and watch the rotor as the engine is cranked. it should spin. If this is a-ok your worse nightmare is over.
Now we have eliminated the timing belt as being a cause. We now have to charged the battery again for three min and load test it( this is best done by a repair shop a load tester is expensive .If the battery if more than 5yrs old you may want to replace it.
If battery does not pass load test replace it.
Whatever you decide the rest of the items can NOT be checked out without a fully charged battery.
Check ignition switch and starter relay for B+ going to them and leaving them. Check starter circuit. Make sure B+ is making it to starter ( use a digital voltmeter). If B+ (12 volts) is making it to the starter and it doesn't crank then the starter is defective. Verify this by removing the starter and have it bench tested.
If starter cranks now your into coil testing . First thing reconnect the distributor.
Pull a spark plug, hook it up to a spark tester and ground it, now crank the engine if you get spark coil is ok and in all likelihood so is module.
If you don't get spark test for spark at the coil wire.
If you get spark here and don't get it at the spark plug wire problem is at distributor cap , rotor or spark plug wire. If plugs look bad use a fresh plug to do testing and naturally replace them.
If all of the above are a-ok.
Next is fuel checks. Reinstall fuel pump relay
Easiest fuel check is to put key into ignition cylinder and turn to on position. Lister for pump to buzz or hum. if it doesn't then check fuel pump relay for B+ going to it and leaving it and going to the pump. If B+ making it to pump and it doesn't turn on the pump is your problem. If B+ not making it to pump either the relay or the ignition switch is defective.
Naturally if the pump is defective have a repair shop do the repair . Its dangerous and a real pain.
Good Luck
Now the cutting out after running fora whilrcoild have caused by the coil, ignition module, fuel pump.
We kinda have to get the car to start first to be conclusiveas to why it cuts out.

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