Question about 2000 Chrysler Town & Country

2 Answers

Engine started and ran 2-3 seconds and quit. Did

Engine started and ran 2-3 seconds and quit. Did this 2 more times, now will do nothing. Battery checks out fine, jumpered contacts at starter relay and engine cranks fine.
Have to turn key on and off a couple of times for indicator to light up around P on tansmission indicator.

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  • mholmes52 Jan 31, 2010

    Not fuel pump.
    Again, engine will not crank unless I jumper the contacts on the starter relay.

  • mholmes52 Jan 31, 2010

    It was an original key. I just tried again using the other original key, and it doesn't work either.



    Is the a way to bypass the security feature? Maybe it is the device that reads the chip in the key?



    I can shift into Reverse and the back up lights come on, so the PRNDL switch must be working?



    Had no problems until the sudden 3 trys and now "dead". Again, possibly the key chip reader?



    Any way to test this?

  • mholmes52 Jan 31, 2010

    Disconnected battery for almost an hour. Re connected, no change.

    Guess I will have to try and find a scanner to reprogram ignition.



    Thanks for your help.

  • mholmes52 Jan 31, 2010

    Unknown. Problem still exists.

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  • Chrysler Master
  • 1,757 Answers

This is the Security System involved with your ignition.
On the 3rd time - it will shut down and you have to wait an hour to retry.
Your Key has a Chip. Your Ignition has a Sensor (SKIM) that reads the Chip. If they do not match it will cause the Engine to die after 2-3 seconds. 3rd try it will not start.
Wait 1-hour.
Is the Key you are using the original issued Key or a remake? IF a remake then try using the original Key.
If it is the original Key, then your looking at taking it in to have the Key and SKIM reprogrammed.
With the original Key, and with the problem described on the "P":
On a 4-speed transmission on the front bottom (at bottom right of the Solenoid) of the transmission you have a PRNDL switch. Because of it's location, it is prone for connection problems and damage (especially in deep snow).
A couple of things to do:
1. Unplug the PRNDL sensor and check the connection points. Clean any corrosion or oxidation (white stuff) from them and re-plug and check operation.
2. Unplug and remove the PRNDL sensor. These sometimes get metal particles all over the interior end and lose their ability to send the correct information. THIS ALSO CAN CAUSE YOUR VEHICLE NOT TO START. Clean the interior end, re-install and recheck operation.
3. Unplug, remove and replace the PRNDL Sensor. Recheck operationS: Starting and the "P" indication.


Posted on Jan 31, 2010

  • Patrick Rayome Jan 31, 2010

    Jumper cables to the Starter and cranks:

    1. Bad Starter Solenoid = Replace the Starter.

    2. Bad Starter Relay located in the PDC Relay and Fuse Box. You can use a Spare Relay, or a Relay of the same Type (size and shape) from a KNOWN operating non-engine operation Relay.

    Recheck operations.

  • Patrick Rayome Jan 31, 2010

    One thing you can try:

    Disconnect the battery for 30-minutes.

    Retry. There is a possibility the security sensor malfunctioned.

    Let me know.

    The 3rd time - try and nothing is one of the test. It just doesn't cost you anything. If you have someone you know who has access to utilize a DRB II or III Scan Tool who would like to do you a favor. Have then come to your location and hook it up and reprogram.

    A DRB II or III Scan Tool is needed to reset this IF the battery disconnect does not work.

    Sometimes (but rarely) a person's static electricity has shorted the security system; so the battery disconnect may work, saving you some money.



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  • Chrysler Master
  • 76,630 Answers

U may have a defective electric fuel pump, to check this with expensive special tools do this, get a can of spray starter fluid from an auto parts store or hardware store, spray it into the engines air intake hose while someone cranks the engine, if the van starts u have a defective fuel pump, the fuel pump is located inside the fuel tank, the tank must be dropped out of the van to replace the fuel pump, there is no other way to do this, if the pump is the problem (and I strongly suspect it is) are u going to attempt to do this job? if so let me know and I will provide more detailed instructions, u will need a good 2 1/2 ton capacity floor jack and safety jack stands and a really good set of hand tools to even attempt it

Posted on Jan 31, 2010

  • yadayada
    yadayada Jan 31, 2010

    sounds like u have a defective neutral safety switch or a security lock out, the neutral safety switch is located on the trans case under the post the shift cable attach's to.

  • yadayada
    yadayada Jan 31, 2010

    do u have a security system alert flashing tin the dash display? if no the problem is not the key or security module, as far as the scanner you think you can find, well that is a special dealer electronic test too that cost about $2,000 USD, so good luck there, u can have this diagnosed and repaired at a Mopar dealer for far less than buying a scanner. with 30 years of experience in automotive electronics I do know what is what here.

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