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Re: Removal and replacement of brake shoes 1999/2000 on...
Firstly put the hand brake on and loosen the wheel nuts, jack the car and remove the wheel, if you turn the wheels out so you have a better view. then remove the 2 10mm bolts from the rear of the brake caliper, there will be a hard tough wire coming over then brake caliper pop this off with a screw driver or pliers. now open the bonnet and remove the cap from the brake fluid bottle. once done leave it off and then retun to the brakes, get a flat screw driver and place it between the inner most brake pad and the brake disc then push the 2 apart, once these have been moved lift the caliper off and the brake pads should come free. the caliper has a cylider/ round part that pushes the pads against the disc ensure that the cylider is pushed right back into the caliper using some big grips large pliers. once the cylinder is right back you should be able to fit the new pads. replace all the parts in reverse order, but before putting the wheel back on push the brake pedal several times until the pedal feels hard. then replace the wheel and do the other side. once complete check the fluid level on the brake fluid and replace the cap.
This is a fairly easy job should take a novice about 40mins a side but if your quite savvy with cars then you can complete the whole job in about an hour.
Hope this helps if not please get back to me so I can be more accurate, and talk you through it.
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The auto adjuster needs to be released! It should be a knurled nut or notched nut, turn it a bit to close the shoes! When you press the brake pedal after fitting hub and wheels they will automatically reset!
is brake pedal hard to push down without engine running ,if so proceed to step two and thats to start engine and then push on brake and if pedal softer to push then the servo is working ,now if excessive pedal travel with engine running then remove the rear drums ,make sure the outside lip is cleaned out and then adjust the brake shoes manually till they rub when you turn the drum ,this will cure it but remember that it has to bed in of course new pads brake disks ,new shoes and drums it has to bed in so give it a chance .
Try to adjust the rear brakes tighter at the shoes, if you have drum brakes. May require taking the drum off and adjusting the adjuster. Or, adjusting it from the backing plate access hole if there is one.
Be sure to check the cables to make sure they are not broken anywhere between the hand brake lever and the back brakes.
Is there any brake fluid leaks anywhere?
Check your Brake Fluid Level in your Master Cylinder Reservoir. If it is too low, this will trigger the Brake Light. This is the number 1 reason for the warning light to trigger.
Also: there is an electrical connection adjacent to the Reservoir. Check this connection. Unplug, check the metal connectors (both) for any corrosion or oxidation (whiting) and remove this from the metal. Replug and recheck operation.
Further: what is the condition of your Brake Pads and/or Brake Shoes? Pads or Shoes that are worn out (very low) will trigger this.
Let me know if this helped, or if you have any additional infomation, problems or questions. Feel free to contact me at FixYa.com!
hi, this could mean one of a couple of things it could be that the brake shoes on the back need replacing and its always best to replace both sides, when you buy them you buy both sides. It could also be that the cylinder that pushes the brakes shoes onto the hub this could have a seal gone in it causing brake fluid to leak inside the drum. if this is the case then you need to replace the cylinder and the shoes as the brake fluid would have leaked onto the shoes making them brittle reducing the power of the brakes on that one side. It could also be that the cylinder has seized their fore it will need replacing.
Either way you are going to have to remove the drum on that one side to check for any of these problems you will be able to see if the shoes are low or if the cylinder is leaking as fluid would be visible comin out of one side of the cylinder.
It can be a difficult job to replace the brake shoes so if you are unsure then please leave to a pro as you might find you cant get the clips back on that hold the shoes onto the inner hub and also the springs that run from one shoe to the other can be a real pain to get back on after so be warned.
Let me know how you get on or if you need further assistance ok
HI THERE DES DAVIES BEFORE YOU GO ADJUSTING H/BRAKE FIRST THING TO CHECK IS THAT UNDERNEATH AT BACK PLATE WHERE BRAKE DRUMS GO OVER MAKE SURE THAT H/BRAKE IS OFF (BLOCK WHEELS) & CHECK THAT PLUNGER ON BACK PLATE DOES NOT PUSH THROUGH IF IT DOES THEN REAR BRAKES NEED ADJUSTED YOU WILL THEN NEED TO SLACKEN OFF H/BRAKE ADJUSTMENT UNDERNEATH CAR(NYLOCK SCREWS)ONCE YOU HAVE DONE THIS REMOVE DRUMS & ADJUST BRAKE SHOES OTHERWISE YOU WILL STILL HAVE A POOR H/BRAKE.
You need to get a bolt with the same diameter and thread pitch as the brake drumretaining screws. On my 1997 Escort that's an 8mm x 1.25 thread pitch bolt. The length should be about 12mm. or larger. Don't get a bolt that's longer than about 20mm. The bolt goes into a hole in the brake drum, bearing down on a plate inside the hub. You can't use a brake drum retaining screw because you need to be able to apply more torque to the fastener than could be safely applied to a jacked vehicle