Question about 2007 Toyota Avalon

1 Answer

No oil in the crankcase, no leak from the plug

No oil in the crankcase, no leak from the plug but oil scattered on hoses and related parts under the front passenger seating area on a 2006 toyota avalon

Posted by on

1 Answer

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

    President:

    An expert whose answer got voted for 500 times.

  • Master
  • 1,050 Answers

This is a very common problem and may be covered under warranty if you yell loud enough. There is an oil line that goes from the back of the engine and up toward the front. It fails and all the oil gets pumped out of the engine. Do not drive the car like this. It is a difficult job to repair because of its location.

http://www.carcomplaints.com/Toyota/Avalon/2005/engine/oil_leak.shtml

Posted on Jan 31, 2010

1 Suggested Answer

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

Loss of power shaky acceleration


Your PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) there is an oil trap and associated hoses on the front of the engine. It runs from under the spark plug wire cover down beneath the starter (the oil trap is located here). Typically, the system plugs up and dries out. You need to remove the trap and hoses and clean the holes out beneath the trap which drain into the oil pan. I used a small brush and a bent coat hanger. I also drained the oil (needed to be changed anyway) and sprayed some sea foam down there to loosen things up and then blew it out with rubber hose with compressed air. It worked well. Pay special attention to cleaning out the bottom hole because this is where it gets clogged the most. The parts cost about $150 or so.

Apr 12, 2014 | 1999 Volvo V70

1 Answer

Engine oil leak


Michael
its a oil cooler it sounds like the gasket is blown just replace it no need to drain engine but u will get oil rfunning out put some thing under to catch oil

Nov 03, 2013 | Nissan Rogue Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Where is oil crankcase locate under the hood


Your crankcase is also known as the oil pan. Technically it's under the hood but is most visible from under the car as it is the bottom of the engine. It's called a crankcase because the crankshaft is inside there. To get a bit more complicated though, the crankcase is also the lower part of the engine where the crankshaft actually is housed in the engine, the oil pan actually serving as a sump for the engine oil and as a cover to keep dirt, mice and zebras from getting into the engine. When someone talks about the "bottom end" of an engine they are referring to the crankshaft, connecting rods and the bearings, all which are contained in the crankcase. Your oil drain plug is always located on the bottom or around the perimeter of the bottom of the oil pan.

May 21, 2011 | Nissan Altima Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I changed the oil and filter and started the car and the filter gasket started to come out, all the oil leaked out, I replaced it 3 times, the last filter I put on it blew the metal cover off the oil...


Hello! The oil pressure is extremely high...The most probably cause is a plugged Positive Crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve...Replace the PCV valve and the hose that connects it to the intake..It is located in the passenger side valve cover....See photo below...Guru..............Saailer


saailer_148.jpgFRAM Part # FV243 cost $2.50

Mar 12, 2011 | 1995 Lincoln Mark VIII

2 Answers

Oil got to spark plug because a hose got burned and broke 2002 passat


Change all your Spark Plugs and check the condition of your coil wires or packs and clean them if they are soaked with oil.

Jun 18, 2010 | 2002 Volkswagen Passat

4 Answers

Loosing coolant no visible leaks about 1/2 gallon every 100 miles


How To Find & Fix Coolant Leaks

861e67b.gif

WHERE COOLANT LEAKS OCCUR
Coolant leaks can occur anywhere in the cooling system. Nine out of ten times, coolant leaks are easy to find because the coolant can be seen dripping, spraying, seeping or bubbling from the leaky component. Open the hood and visually inspect the engine and cooling system for any sign of liquid leaking from the engine, radiator or hoses. The color of the coolant may be green, orange or yellow depending on the type of antifreeze in the system. The most common places where coolant may be leaking are:
Water pump -- A bad shaft seal will allow coolant to dribble out of the vent hole just under the water pump pulley shaft. If the water pump is a two-piece unit with a backing plate, the gasket between the housing and back cover may be leaking. The gasket or o-ring that seals the pump to the engine front cover on cover-mounted water pumps can also leak coolant. Look for stains, discoloration or liquid coolant on the outside of the water pump or engine.

Radiator -- Radiators can develop leaks around upper or loser hose connections as a result of vibration. The seams where the core is mated to the end tanks is another place where leaks frequently develop, especially on aluminum radiators with plastic end tanks. On copper/brass radiators, leaks typically occur where the cooling tubes in the core are connected or soldered to the core headers. The core itself is also vulnerable to stone damage. Internal corrosion caused by old coolant that has never been changed can also eat through the metal in the radiator, causing it to leak.

Most cooling systems today are designed to operate at 8 to 14 psi. If the radiator can't hold pressure, your engine will overheat and lose coolant.

Hoses -- Cracks, pinholes or splits in a radiator hose or heater hose will leak coolant. A hose leak will usually send a stream of hot coolant spraying out of the hose. A corroded hose connection or a loose or damaged hose clamp may also allow coolant to leak from the end of a hose. Sometimes the leak may only occur once the hose gets hot and the pinhole or crack opens up.

Freeze plugs -- These are the casting plugs or expansion plugs in the sides of the engine block and/or cylinder head. The flat steel plugs corroded from the inside out, and may develop leaks that are hard to see because of the plug's location behind the exhaust manifold, engine mount or other engine accessories. On V6 and V8 blocks, the plugs are most easily inspected from underneath the vehicle.

Heater Core -- The heater core is located inside the heating ventilation and air conditioning (HVAC) unit under the dash. It is out of sight so you cannot see a leak directly. But if the heater core is leaking (or a hose connection to the heater core is leaking), coolant will be seeping out of the bottom of the HVAC unit and dripping on the floor inside the passenger compartment. Look for stains or wet spots on the bottom of the plastic HVAC case, or on the passenger side floor.

Intake Manifold gasket -- The gasket that seals the intake manifold to the cylinder heads may leak and allow coolant to enter the intake port, crankcase or dribble down the outside of the engine. Some engines such as General Motors 3.1L and 3.4L V6 engines as well as 4.3L, 5.0L and 5.7L V8s are notorious for leaky intake manifold gaskets. The intake manifold gaskets on these engines are plastic and often fail at 50,000 to 80,000 miles. Other troublesome applications include the intake manifold gaskets on Buick 3800 V6 and Ford 4.0L V6 engines.

INTERNAL COOLANT LEAKS
There are the worst kind of coolant leaks for two reasons. One is that they are impossible to see because they are hidden inside the engine. The other is that internal coolant leaks can be very expensive to repair.

Bad head gasket --Internal coolant leaks are most often due to a bad head gasket. The head gasket may leak coolant into a cylinder, or into the crankcase. Coolant leaks into the crankcase dilute the oil and can damage the bearings in your engine. A head gasket leaking coolant into a cylinder can foul the spark plug, and create a lot of white smoke in the exhaust. Adding sealer to the cooling system may plug the leak if it is not too bad, but eventually the head gasket will have to be replaced.

If you suspect a head gasket leak, have the cooling system pressure tested. If it fails to hold pressure, there is an internal leak. A "block tester" can also be used to diagnose a leaky head gasket. This device draws air from the cooling system into a chamber that contains a special blue colored leak detection liquid. Combustion gases will react with the liquid and cause it to change color from blue to green if the head gasket is leaking.

Head gasket failures are often the result of engine overheating (which may have occurred because of a coolant leak elsewhere in the cooling system, a bad thermostat, or an electric cooling fan not working). When the engine overheats, thermal expansion can crush and damage portions of the head gasket. This damaged areas may then start to leak combustion pressure and/or coolant.

Cracked Head or Block -- Internal coolant leaks can also occur if the cylinder head or engine block has a crack in a cooling jacket. A combustion chamber leak in the cylinder head or block will leak coolant into the cylinder. This dilutes the oil on the cylinder walls and can damage the piston and rings. If the coolant contains silicates (conventional green antifreeze), it can also foul the oxygen sensor and catalytic converter. If enough coolant leaks into the cylinder (as when the engine is sitting overnight), it may even hydro-lock the engine and prevent it from cranking when you try to start it. Internal leaks such as these can be diagnosed by pressure testing the cooling system or using a block checker.

A coolant leak into the crankcase is also bad news because it can damage the bearings. Coolant leaking into the crankcase will make the oil level on the dipstick appear to be higher than normal. The oil may also appear frothy, muddy or discolored because of the coolant contamination.

Leaky ATF oil cooler -- Internal coolant leakage can also occur in the automatic transmission fluid oil cooler inside the radiator. On most vehicles with automatic transmissions, ATF is routed through an oil cooler inside the radiator. If the tubing leaks, coolant can enter the transmission lines, contaminate the fluid and ruin the transmission. Red or brown drops of oil in the coolant would be a symptom of such a leak. Because the oil cooler is inside the radiator, the radiator must be replaced to eliminate the problem. The transmission fluid should also be changed.

continue...

Mar 12, 2010 | 1998 Oldsmobile 88

1 Answer

Loosing antifreeze


f735a20.gif

WHERE COOLANT LEAKS OCCUR
Coolant leaks can occur anywhere in the cooling system. Nine out of ten times, coolant leaks are easy to find because the coolant can be seen dripping, spraying, seeping or bubbling from the leaky component. Open the hood and visually inspect the engine and cooling system for any sign of liquid leaking from the engine, radiator or hoses. The color of the coolant may be green, orange or yellow depending on the type of antifreeze in the system. The most common places where coolant may be leaking are:
Water pump -- A bad shaft seal will allow coolant to dribble out of the vent hole just under the water pump pulley shaft. If the water pump is a two-piece unit with a backing plate, the gasket between the housing and back cover may be leaking. The gasket or o-ring that seals the pump to the engine front cover on cover-mounted water pumps can also leak coolant. Look for stains, discoloration or liquid coolant on the outside of the water pump or engine.

Radiator -- Radiators can develop leaks around upper or loser hose connections as a result of vibration. The seams where the core is mated to the end tanks is another place where leaks frequently develop, especially on aluminum radiators with plastic end tanks. On copper/brass radiators, leaks typically occur where the cooling tubes in the core are connected or soldered to the core headers. The core itself is also vulnerable to stone damage. Internal corrosion caused by old coolant that has never been changed can also eat through the metal in the radiator, causing it to leak.

Most cooling systems today are designed to operate at 8 to 14 psi. If the radiator can't hold pressure, your engine will overheat and lose coolant.

Hoses -- Cracks, pinholes or splits in a radiator hose or heater hose will leak coolant. A hose leak will usually send a stream of hot coolant spraying out of the hose. A corroded hose connection or a loose or damaged hose clamp may also allow coolant to leak from the end of a hose. Sometimes the leak may only occur once the hose gets hot and the pinhole or crack opens up.

Freeze plugs -- These are the casting plugs or expansion plugs in the sides of the engine block and/or cylinder head. The flat steel plugs corroded from the inside out, and may develop leaks that are hard to see because of the plug's location behind the exhaust manifold, engine mount or other engine accessories. On V6 and V8 blocks, the plugs are most easily inspected from underneath the vehicle.

Heater Core -- The heater core is located inside the heating ventilation and air conditioning (HVAC) unit under the dash. It is out of sight so you cannot see a leak directly. But if the heater core is leaking (or a hose connection to the heater core is leaking), coolant will be seeping out of the bottom of the HVAC unit and dripping on the floor inside the passenger compartment. Look for stains or wet spots on the bottom of the plastic HVAC case, or on the passenger side floor.

Intake Manifold gasket -- The gasket that seals the intake manifold to the cylinder heads may leak and allow coolant to enter the intake port, crankcase or dribble down the outside of the engine. Some engines such as General Motors 3.1L and 3.4L V6 engines as well as 4.3L, 5.0L and 5.7L V8s are notorious for leaky intake manifold gaskets. The intake manifold gaskets on these engines are plastic and often fail at 50,000 to 80,000 miles. Other troublesome applications include the intake manifold gaskets on Buick 3800 V6 and Ford 4.0L V6 engines.

INTERNAL COOLANT LEAKS
There are the worst kind of coolant leaks for two reasons. One is that they are impossible to see because they are hidden inside the engine. The other is that internal coolant leaks can be very expensive to repair.

Bad head gasket --Internal coolant leaks are most often due to a bad head gasket. The head gasket may leak coolant into a cylinder, or into the crankcase. Coolant leaks into the crankcase dilute the oil and can damage the bearings in your engine. A head gasket leaking coolant into a cylinder can foul the spark plug, and create a lot of white smoke in the exhaust. Adding sealer to the cooling system may plug the leak if it is not too bad, but eventually the head gasket will have to be replaced.

If you suspect a head gasket leak, have the cooling system pressure tested. If it fails to hold pressure, there is an internal leak. A "block tester" can also be used to diagnose a leaky head gasket. This device draws air from the cooling system into a chamber that contains a special blue colored leak detection liquid. Combustion gases will react with the liquid and cause it to change color from blue to green if the head gasket is leaking.

Head gasket failures are often the result of engine overheating (which may have occurred because of a coolant leak elsewhere in the cooling system, a bad thermostat, or an electric cooling fan not working). When the engine overheats, thermal expansion can crush and damage portions of the head gasket. This damaged areas may then start to leak combustion pressure and/or coolant.

Cracked Head or Block -- Internal coolant leaks can also occur if the cylinder head or engine block has a crack in a cooling jacket. A combustion chamber leak in the cylinder head or block will leak coolant into the cylinder. This dilutes the oil on the cylinder walls and can damage the piston and rings. If the coolant contains silicates (conventional green antifreeze), it can also foul the oxygen sensor and catalytic converter. If enough coolant leaks into the cylinder (as when the engine is sitting overnight), it may even hydro-lock the engine and prevent it from cranking when you try to start it. Internal leaks such as these can be diagnosed by pressure testing the cooling system or using a block checker.

A coolant leak into the crankcase is also bad news because it can damage the bearings. Coolant leaking into the crankcase will make the oil level on the dipstick appear to be higher than normal. The oil may also appear frothy, muddy or discolored because of the coolant contamination.

Leaky ATF oil cooler -- Internal coolant leakage can also occur in the automatic transmission fluid oil cooler inside the radiator. On most vehicles with automatic transmissions, ATF is routed through an oil cooler inside the radiator. If the tubing leaks, coolant can enter the transmission lines, contaminate the fluid and ruin the transmission. Red or brown drops of oil in the coolant would be a symptom of such a leak. Because the oil cooler is inside the radiator, the radiator must be replaced to eliminate the problem. The transmission fluid should also be changed.

continue..

Mar 12, 2010 | 2007 Hummer H3X

2 Answers

Positive crankcase ventilation system


the part that you describe is the valve cover, yes they do leak oil, especially if the pcv system is not working properly

May 15, 2009 | 1997 Ford Escort

1 Answer

How come the gas mixes with the oil then when u drive it it shuts off


it seems to be a fuel related problem. the gas should not be going into the crankcase. It is leaking into the crankcase . The fuel system is somehow leaking into the crankcase because of excessive flooding, or other fuel related problem like a gasket . don't drive the car like that.

Feb 02, 2009 | 1993 Nissan Altima

2 Answers

Smoke


Hi snhinehunny1

I have read both of your problem posts and it sounds like your Sebring needs some TLC attention. In this response we'll only address the smoke and missing issues, as there is probably some connections with the other symptoms you described.

Smoke and oil consumption / oil loss are definitely related, but you need to know the difference between oil consumption, which is the burning of oil that mixes in with the air/fuel mixture, and oil loss. If your exhaust system is in good condition (no exhaust leaks at the exhaust manifold, catalytic converter, muffler and tailpipe, then consumed oil would only cause smoking from the tailpipe. This is caused by worn or defective piston oil control rings and/or worn valve guide seals, or possibly a leaking head gasket, and this condition can contribute to engine misses, as the cylinders with oil control problems receive an air/fuel mixture ratio that is thrown off by the introduction of the oil. The smoking due to consumed oil will only show up under the hood in the case of an exhaust leak.

Oil loss is the leaking of oil to the outside from around gaskets and seals, and underhood smoking is most likely due to oil escaping from around the valve covers. This oil then drips onto the hot exhaust manifold where it is burned and smokes. This type of smoking is not apparent until the engine warms up, but it is accompanied by a strong burnt oil smell AND the tale-tell oil spot on the ground under where the car is parked, and can cause engine misses by oiling spark plugs and wires to the point of breakdown.

A third possible source of the smoke is caused by compression blow-by, and blow-by is caused by weak, worn, or broken piston compression rings. When the cylinder is fired, part of the power stroke compressed gas escapes past the rings into the sealed crankcase. Modern engines are designed to operate with slight negative pressure in the crankcase, and this is done through the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve. This negative pressure helps keep crankcase gases controlled within the crankcase, but if an engine is blowing-by more gas than the PCV can evacuate, than the crankcase becomes pressurized, leading to oil being forced out around gasket and seals, and (possibly) oil being drawn into the intake through the PCV system, and this will also cause underhood smoke. This is usually seen in well-worn high mileage engines, and in engines that have experienced a severe overheating episode---the excessively high temperatures causes the piston rings to lose their temper (springiness --- NOT ANGER MANAGEMENT! Ha!) and consequently, their ability to form an effective seal against the cylinder wall.

In your case, I suspect that you may very well have, to some degree, all of the above conditions. A good technician / diagnostician can give you a more accurate evakuation by doing such things as a compression check and reading the spark plugs (for oil coating / caking), evaluate engine blow-by by feeling over the oil filler looking for slight suction or whether there is pressure there, and by visually inspecting around gaskets and seals for oil leaks.

The oil pump would not be involved in any of the above.

I hope this helps you figure out what the problems are, but please don't hesitate to ask if you have questions or to post further comments on this problem. And PLEASE be so kind as to rate my advice --- that is my only compensation for serving you! I will address your starting problem under that posting.

Best of luck and thank you!
-WildBill

Jun 24, 2008 | 2001 Chrysler Sebring

Not finding what you are looking for?
2007 Toyota Avalon Logo

227 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Toyota Experts

yadayada
yadayada

Level 3 Expert

75744 Answers

Colin Stickland
Colin Stickland

Level 3 Expert

22114 Answers

Jeff Turcotte
Jeff Turcotte

Level 3 Expert

8123 Answers

Are you a Toyota Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...