My car has had 5 Thermostats, A new cap for the coolant reservoir, 2 Water pumps, A new head gasket, A new heater core, the radiator flushed, a new sending unit, and so much more. It still runs hot..so far not into the red, but hotter than it should be running. The head has been checked as well. No one can figure out this problem and I am tired of mechanics just guessing and doing the same things. Anyone have a suggestion??
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Re: 1997 Chevrolet Cavalier 2.2L
Have the catalytic converter and the complete exhaust checked for the proper flow. When the exhaust becomes restricted, more heat is held into the engine & especially the head. This causes blown head gaskets, cracked heads & a lot of wear on the parts you have mentioned replacing. Generally the oil will get dirty more quickly due to engine blow-by gasses & there can be blow-by causing even the air filter to become oily.
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Re: 1997 Chevrolet Cavalier 2.2L
Well look at the fuel consumtion and the power it has while driving... if it is getting low mpg and it has low power than i would say that the timing is off . it is probably to far advanced and no matter what you do to keep it running cool it wont... and does it run hot going down the road or sitting still. if it is running hot while going down the road and the timing is right. your radiator should be cleaned ( the out side) if it is while it is sitting still check see if the fan is even coming on.
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if it consumes fluid only two ways a leak or burning it ---look for leaks -dried /damaged hoses- reservoir -radiator cap-water pump-heater core -- have a pressure test done of system ----burning coolant would mean problem with --possible head gasket--intake gasket -damaged head
check that the thermostat is in correctly as it will cause no circulation but overheating. have a compression test done to eliminate head gasket /cracked head. There could be a blockage in the heater core but I am thinking that by passing the heater fan he has also by passed the actuator( coolant valve) for the heater core. Water pumps suffer from bad bearings and very seldom anything else. check that he hasn't blocked off the water to the heater core as well
the throwing back of the coolant is the boiling of the coolant in the block ( bad head gasket) due to lack of circulation. It may be a blocked radiator as flushing doesn't fix the blocked cores . If that is the case a new radiator is in order.
you should have the cooling system pressure tested and inspected for a leak that may only show up under pressure.it could be a slow leak from the water pump,frost plug,head gasket which wouldn`t show up in the oil,heater core.it sounds like a small leak but this is the best way to start to find it.
Water pump. The impeller can come loose from the shaft and not circulate enough coolant. These can throw you off, because when you remove the pump the impeller will be tight against the shaft. It is when they warm up they begin to slip. If the heater core is not leaking don't bypass it.
1. Try a new radiator reservoir cap (trust me, it is very important in holding pressure which keeps the coolant from boiling out).
2. This one you will need an entire weekend to spend on this. You need to remove the thermostat and replace the thermostat housing. pull one of the radiator hoses and attach a garden hose with good pressure. It needs to flush for at least 20 minutes. Then switch directions and flush water where was coming out. Then put it back together and drive until it gets hot. Allow it to cool for 45mins (to prevent engine from cracking due to rapid cooling) and repeat until no crud comes out when flushing.
Is your vehicle low on water constantly? If so you may have a bad heater core and it is leaking water into the passenger compartment. Feel around on the lower right side of the floorboard and see if it is wet. If it is then your heater core is leaking water and antifreeze into you care. Another way to determine this is if you windshiled focs bad on defrost (antifreeze on the windshield) and you can seem to clear the fog. If this is the problem then you can try some alumna seal that you pur into the raidator and this may help for a short tiem, but ultimately you will have to replace the heater core.
If there is no water on the floorboard I would pull the radiator cap while it is running and have someone rev up the engine, if you have a blown head gasket then you should see bubbles in the water in the radiator when you rev it (sign of combustion leakage into the coolant system). You can also buy a kit from NAPA that samples the water in your radiator to tell you if you have combustion in the coolant system. While you have the radiator cap open see if they water is flowing well in the radiator (it could be clogged). I would also make sure your colling fans are coming on when the vehicle gets hot.
I would replace the radiator cap as well, if the cap is bad this will cause your vehicle to overheat because the system isn't pressurized and unpressurized water boils way sooner than pressurized water causing overheating.
There could be some air still in the system...Sometimes when the head gasket starts to go it will put a small amount of combustion into the system...Hard to detect at first...A good test to see if this is happening is when the engine is cold and you start it up, rev the engine up for 30 seconds and then shut it off..Open up the system, if their is pressure present then the gasket is leaking...Caution..Do not do this if engine is warm...
If you have no heat, you have air in the heater core.
You say the head gasket is ok because yoou have no oil in the water. Many times the head gaqsket blows combustion into the cooling system only. Get the car up to temp with the radiator cap off, put it in gear, hold the brake and load the engine. If you have a lot of bubblls out of the radiator, you have a blow heade gasket or cracked head.
Check the ignitin timing. Old BMW's would overheat in a heart beat with retarded Ignition timing.
My bet is head gasket because the heater core is air bound