Question about 1996 Volkswagen Golf

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Fuel injector won't allow gas to flow into engine, have spark, have fuel psi. All fuses ok. OBD connection won't connect to reader can't get codes.

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    Test fuel injector pulse and supply voltage output (test is used for most cars). This test will tell you if the computer system has operating voltage and injector trigger signal. Remove an electrical connector from a fuel injector (it doesn't matter which injector) probe both sides of the connector with a grounded test light
    (there are only two terminals). Have a helper turn the key to the "on" position without cranking the engine and observe the test light. The test light should illuminate one side of the connector only. Next, switch the test light lead to the positive side of the battery to test the system ground injector trigger, probe the side of the connector that did not light up, have a helper crank the engine over and observe the test light, it should blink on and off. If this test checks ok continue to next step. (Note: if no injector pulse is present try disconnecting the remainder of injectors and re-test, if a fuel injector is shorted it can shut down the injector driver causing no injector pulse. If injector pulse returns plug injectors electrical connectors in one at a time until the pulse fails and replace that injector)

    If this test revealed that there was no pulse but system has power the ECM is not generating a fuel injector trigger. If there is no trigger to the fuel injector it will not allow fuel to enter into the engine. Some of the most popular reasons that can cause this condition include a shorted crankshaft angle sensor, shorted camshaft position sensor or shorted ECM/PCM. (When a system trouble code scan is performed it does not always catch a crankshaft angle sensor, camshaft position sensor failure). Tip: try disconnecting all non-essential sensors, example: oxygen sensor, coolant sensor, throttle position sensor, air intake temperature sensor, mass air flow or map sensor and EGR valve pressure differential sensor. Crank the engine over, if the injector pulse returns, one of the sensors is shorted causing the system to not operate. Plug the sensors in one at a time until the injector pulse fails then replace that sensor and reassemble.
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    This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya

Posted on Jan 30, 2010

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Hard starting


This problem can be hard to track down , it could be caused by several thing's ! A bad check valve in the fuel pump letting fuel drain back into the tank , not keeping fuel line pressure up , a crankshaft position sensor can also cause this as well as an ignition control module !
Checks
Action
DEFINITION: Engine cranks OK, but does not start for a long time. Does eventually run, or may start but immediately dies.
Preliminary
?€¢
Refer to Important Preliminary Checks Before Starting in Symptoms - Engine Controls .


?€¢
Inspect the powertrain control module (PCM) grounds for being clean, tight, and in the proper locations. Refer to Engine Controls Schematics .


?€¢
Search for bulletins.

Sensor/System
?€¢
Test the engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor for being shifted in value. Connect a scan tool. Compare the engine coolant temperature against the intake air temperature (IAT) on a cold engine. The ECT and IAT sensor values should be within ?± 3?°C (5?°F) of each other. If the ECT sensor is out of range with the IAT sensor, check the resistance of the ECT sensor. Refer to Temperature Versus Resistance for resistance specifications. Replace the ECT sensor if the resistance is not within the specification. If the sensor is within the specification, repair the ECT signal circuit for high resistance.


?€¢
Inspect the mass air flow (MAF) sensor installation. A MAF sensor that is incorrectly installed may cause a hard start. Important: The embossed arrows on the MAF sensor indicate the direction of the intake air flow. The arrows must point toward the engine. Install the MAF in the proper direction. Refer to Mass Airflow Sensor/Intake Air Temperature Sensor Replacement .


?€¢
Inspect the camshaft position (CMP) sensor for proper mounting and/or a bad connection. A long crank time occurs if the PCM does not receive a CMP signal.

Fuel System
?€¢
Inspect the fuel pump relay operation. The fuel pump should turn ON for 2 seconds when you turn ON the ignition. Refer to Fuel Pump Electrical Circuit Diagnosis .


?€¢
A faulty in-tank fuel pump check valve allows the fuel in the lines to drain back to the tank after the engine stops. Refer to Fuel System Diagnosis .


?€¢
Inspect both injector fuses for being open. An open injector fuse causes four injectors and four ignition coils not to operate. Replace the fuse. Inspect the injector circuits and the ignition coil circuits for an intermittent short to ground.


?€¢
Inspect for incorrect fuel pressure. Refer to Fuel System Diagnosis .


?€¢
Inspect for a restricted fuel filter. Refer to Fuel System Diagnosis .


?€¢
Inspect for a contaminated fuel condition. Refer to Alcohol/Contaminants-in-Fuel Diagnosis .


Ignition System
?€¢
Test both injector fuses for being open. An open injector fuse causes four ignition coils and four injectors not to operate. Replace the fuse. Inspect the ignition coil circuits and the injector circuits for an intermittent short to ground.


?€¢
Inspect for proper ignition voltage output with J 26792 Spark Tester. Refer to Electronic Ignition (EI) System Diagnosis .


?€¢
Remove the spark plugs and check for the following:


-
Correct heat range


-
Wet plugs


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Cracks


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Wear


-
Improper gap


-
Burned electrodes


-
Heavy deposits

Refer to Spark Plug Inspection in Engine Electrical.
?€¢
Determine the cause of the fouling before replacing the spark plugs if the spark plugs are gas, coolant, or oil fouled. Refer to DTC P0172 or P0175 for diagnosis of the rich condition. Refer to Spark Plug Inspection in Engine Electrical for diagnosis of coolant or oil fouled spark plugs.


?€¢
Inspect for bare or shorted ignition wires.


?€¢
Inspect for loose ignition coil grounds. Refer to Electronic Ignition (EI) System Diagnosis .

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4 Answers

Ive got fuel at the injector rod on my 1994 v8 jeep grand cherokee larado but the car wont start .. this all comes after runnin out of gas. its almost wasnts to but doesnt stay on at times and now won


If you ran out of gas there is a very good chance that the fuel pump relay has blown a fuse or requires a reset. Fuses and relays are in the main fuse box behind battery. When you turn your ignition on to the one setting before the starter engages you should be able to hear the fuel pump running. If it does not then check those fuses. If it does run then there is a good chance that the crank shaft positioning sensor needs replacement.

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2 Answers

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Lots of things could cause a no-start, Hendrik. Is your "Check Engine" light on? If so, please have someone get the OBD error codes from the car's computer.

Does it crank but not fire?

If it doesn't crank, check the battery condition, battery connections, ground connections to frame and engine block, starter solenoid, starter motor.

If it cranks, doublecheck your fuel pump installation. Make sure the new fuel pump is properly connected and properly electrically grounded. Look for a fuel pump fuse. Check for proper fuel pressure at the fuel rail, check the fuel flow rate. Check for spark, check or replace spark plugs, distributor cap, rotor, plug wires. Check valve timing, replace timing belt or chain if necessary. Check compression.

Aug 03, 2014 | 2001 Kia Sportage

1 Answer

WHEN I GIVE IT GAS IT START TO MISFIRE


Misfires are caused by one of 3 things-gas, spark, or compression-one of those is the problem. For gas, check the fuel pressure and see if it is at the right pressure for your car. Low fuel pressure will cause misfires. If pressure is good, it could still be an injector problem, like a clogged injector. If low pressure, suspect the fuel pump or the fuel filter.
For an ignition spark problem, check your spark plugs. Pull them out and inspect them for broken or cracked plugs, check the spark plug gap, check for oil fouled plugs. You may be able to isolate the misfire to a cylinder or two by the plugs condition. A misfiring plug or cylinder should show more black, sooty deposits than the other plugs. A normal firing plug will have a tan or brown colored insulator on the end with very little deposits. If the plugs are okay, clean them a bit if needed, and check for spark on the spark plug wire ends with engine cranking. Buy an inexpensive spark tester, or hold each spark plug wire metal end terminal 1/4 inch from a ground on the engine block, while cranking the engine. Wear a heavy glove to avoid getting shocked. Check that every cylinder is getting a strong blue spark to eliminate ignition as a problem. A weak, yellow or orange spark is an ignition problem, possibly a bad coil, or other ignition part.

If spark and gas is good, you may need to check engine compression. Any cylinder that has significantly lower compression than the other cylinders will cause a misfire, and set a misfire code. You should check for any trouble codes in the engine computer. A code reader or scanner would have to be connected to the diagnostic connector under the dash. What is "significantly lower" compression? About 15-20% less compression. Say you checked and had 150 psi compression in most cylinders. If one had 20% lower compression ( 150 X 20%= 30 psi, 150 -30 =120 psi, or same as saying 150 X 80%= 120 psi.), a condition like that can cause a misfire. I hope I have made sense here. Good luck, and post back what you find, or if any questions.

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2 Answers

With 220,000 miles i thought it jumped time but half way home i pull up to redlight and just sitting at idle and engine dies out like no fuel. so i get it started just to go about 150 yards and it starts...


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1 Answer

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1 Answer

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