Question about 2000 Chrysler Grand Voyager
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: chrysler voyager 2.5 diesel cuts
I commented yesterday that I had the same problem and had done some tests in an attempt to identify the cause.
I contacted a local mobile mechanic, and when I described the symptoms, explained the tests that I'd carried out, and told him of my theory that the fuel filter might be partially blocked he said, "Yes, I'm sure you're right. I've had to do 14 Voyagers in the last month with the same problem!" Hopeful that he was right, but still a bit sceptical because the car had a service less than a month ago in which the fuel filter was listed as one of the replaced parts, I called him out. He came, removed the old filter, commented that "The old filter is really dirty and doesn't look to have been replaced for at least 25,000 miles!" inserted a new filter and the car has been running perfectly since. There's a marked improvement in the way the engine's running (not really surprisingly!) and this reinforces my belief that most (but not all) garages are only interested in taking your money and not doing the work.
For anyone interested, the process of replacing the filter was relatively straight forward and I think (if I ever have this problem again) I will replace it myself. On my Voyager (2001 RHD UK spec 2.5l TD) The fuel filter is located in the rear fuel pump, situated just forwards of the rear axle, on the driver's side of the fuel tank. The filter is removed by using a spanner of about an inch. Note, once the new filter is inserted it's important to prime the engine well before starting it otherwise it will need to be bled (which is apparently a tricky job on the Voyager!) To prime the engine and get fuel through before starting it, you must turn the key in the ignition so that you hear the pump working (eventually the pump noise should stop), and repeat this several times (we did it about 10 times) before turning the key further to turn the engine over. This process makes sure that there's a constant stream of fuel through the new filter and up to the front where the engine is!
That's all the mechanic did, and it worked! Even my wife's happy (of course all things are relative!)
Hope this helps,
Posted on Dec 31, 2008
http://www.mvreader.com/multiview/dayco/catalogSearch.php?autoCatalogSearch=1&make=CHRYSLER&model=TOWN%20%26% The Town and Country has the Exact same Motor, Here is the Link to the 3.3 Liter Belt Diagram. It is the First at the Top, Just read the Header. Please Rate My Response! Thanks!4ZYEV3
Posted on Feb 06, 2009
If it's in limp mode, the check engine light is on steady, or blinking, or a combination of the two. You need to have trouble codes read, most parts stores offer this as a free service. They will plug a hand held scan tool into the vans diagnostic port under the dash, and 'read' codes stored in the computer. They can explain what they mean, and make recommendations on what to do to fix it. If you have any questions after that, post them here with the code #'s.
Posted on Apr 18, 2009
If at all times you have good battery power a common solution is the crankshart senor. A quick test is to remove the plug from the sensor or just try to move it about. The best solution is to replace the crankshaft sensor And replacing the plug at the same time. the sensor is located at the top of the gearbox & is held by two ten mil headed studs.
Posted on Jul 03, 2009
DEFINETLY THE IGNITION MODULE, WHEN THE "CHIP" HEATS UP, IT OPENS CIRCUIT THUS ALL POWER TO THE PLUGS IS LOST DUE TO AN INOPERATIONAL COIL.
Posted on Jul 29, 2009
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