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2008 Suzuki Swift 1.5 Extreme condensation + ice on INSIDE!

My Swift is full of condensation every day when weather is cold - even if just left for a few hours. No, there is no snow inside and mats not wet - just normal, daily use. Even tried taking mats inside house and completely drying out and have cleaned all windows thoroughly. Have to scrape ice off entire windscreen INSIDE on v. cold days and can only drive with AC on ALL the time. This cannot be right! dealer has had it in and can find no fault. It doesn't appear to happen to all SWIFTS but a small percentage, from what I can gather, have exactly the same problem. It's ridiculous, like driving a vintage car! I will not rest until I get some action from Suzuki but would appreciate your comments/thoughts?

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

frostwireguy
  • 46 Answers

SOURCE: 1999 suzuki swift stalling problem

could be a sticking idle air control valve... a little cylinder on the side of your throttle body.. it helps control your idling air fuel ratio.. this goes bad could cause your problems... also easy for you to replace... normally 2 small bolts and a harness.. usually run about 35-85 dollars.. check price and if it's about 35 or so.. i'd go ahead and change it anyways.. 9 years it's probly due.. :D

Posted on Sep 17, 2008

SOURCE: 1994 suzuki swift gti

My 1994 GTi was doing the same thing. The car should idle a bit fast when cold, say 1500rpm, due to the auto-choke. However, 2800rpm is too high. I had a look at my throttle system and could not workout how to adjust the auto-choke idle speed seperate from the normal idle. So I reluctantly had it serviced by the agents, they cleaned out the throttle body and adjusted it. It is better, 1900rpm, but still a bit high for my liking.

Posted on Oct 08, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Car gear change - Suzuki Swift

I can confirm the fault is with the nylon bush lifting in the gear lever housing at the base of the gear lever. The dealer has yet to replace mine, however I have carried out a very temorary repair by fitting a cable tie around the circumference of the housing. lift the gaitor from around the gear lever to access. I have not had a problem since. This car is a driving school car and obviously does a lot of gear changes. If the parts are changed but no modification is carried out I am sure the fault will re occur,however at least I know the fault and can overcome it.

Posted on Oct 13, 2008

  • 491 Answers

SOURCE: My windscreen wipers scrape the windscreen when I

Scrape....as in chatter across the glass?
Bend the arm to straighten the wiper.
You want a straight up position on each wiper as they sit on the glass.
This allows them to tilt slightly BOTH WAYS as they remove water......on the up stroke and down.

Posted on Aug 25, 2009

  • 102 Answers

SOURCE: 2001 suzuki swift - thermostat replace?

Suzuki thermostats, more often than not, tend to fail OPEN when they have been overheated - which is a good thing! If they failed shut, you would really cook the motor. Change the thermostat. Also, find the cause of the initial lack of coolant.

Posted on Sep 21, 2009

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I got a 2008 Suzuki swift rs415, and haven't driven for a week. When we unlock the swift the tailgate door wont open ( its like its still locked. can I ask why and how to fix the problem


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My Audi A4 2009 makes a rattling noise on cold starts which resolves in less than 30 seconds. Dealer says its an air pump. This doesn't seem correct. The noise comes from the front of the care. Does not...


READ THIS (happy ending so far...):
audi a4 2L turbo quattro, manual transmission with 98,000 KM. Perfect conditions, no oil leaks whatsoever.

Left the car off for two weeks in very cold weather (-10C down to -25C). When I restarted, it started immediately but with heavy rattling noise due to camshaft adjuster not getting enough oil pressure. After 3 minutes of warming up (outside temp.: -12C) at very low rpm (below 2,000rpm), I start moving the car. Still hearing heavy rattle noise. As soon as I pass 2,000 rpm, I get a scary red warning, low oil pressure. Turn off the engine immediately. In 1 minute, I re-start the car and the engine lights check ok, so I drive in first gear super slow (1,200rpm) hearing the same rattling noise. After another minute, finally the noise all the sudden disappears and the car starts running just fine.

Called Audi dealer and they told me that in extreme weather conditions, I should warm the engine for 10-15 minutes if necessary before start moving.
Take away: luckily, I didn't screw up the engine since I was using it at extremely low rpm (easy to do with clutch and manual transmission) until the oil reached full pressure. I am pretty sure now that the problem was leaving the car off for such a long time in freezing weather. All the oil flows back to the bottom, and when I restarted it, the cold oil with high viscosity took a long time to reach all the parts of the engine, specially the camshaft adjusters that are actuated by using oil pressure. Next day, the car started at -9C perfectly without making any noise (as usual). Basically, the longer you leave your audi in cold weather, the longer you might hear the rattling noise until the oil reach full pressure inside the engine. My car took 6 minutes to fix it after couple of weeks in cold weather. This makes sense to me; in fact, in the past I only heard the rattling noise after leaving the car off for a couple of days in the winter.
So far, this has had an happy ending....

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Dec 19, 2010 | 2009 Audi A4

1 Answer

What type of tires would you recommend for winter driving?


latitude-x-ice.jpg Latitude® X-Ice®

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Quiet, Smooth Ride in Cold-Weather Conditions

Dec 02, 2010 | 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee

1 Answer

Air intake Problem


It is called a warm up tube. It's purpose is to keep the CARB or Throttle plate area from icing up.

I have witnessed icing at 45 degrees (measured) ambient temprature. The low pressure surrounding the throttle plate(s) makes the area very cold.

If you do not have this tube, or the controls for it are not working, you get wierd stalling, or over rich conditions...Turn car off for few minutes (7-11 stop for example) and restart car...pretso, runs and idles perfect...

Mike

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1 Answer

Suzuki swift 1.3 single OHC runs fine when cold,


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2001 suzuki swift - thermostat replace?


Suzuki thermostats, more often than not, tend to fail OPEN when they have been overheated - which is a good thing! If they failed shut, you would really cook the motor. Change the thermostat. Also, find the cause of the initial lack of coolant.

Mar 31, 2009 | Suzuki Swift Cars & Trucks

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Carby icing


well cold start its first, and my best solution is wd40 inside the distributer its always help.

Jun 18, 2008 | 1996 Suzuki Swift

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