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Van keeps attempting to stall but only at idle sometimes when ihit the gas in neutral the idol also sticks for a few seconds above normal idol.when driving down the road it runs fine
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If it stalls when the brake lights come on then the idle is too slow. The high amps of the lights will load down the engine and lowers the idle.
Sometimes that's caused by a vacuum leak near the manifold area.
Sometimes air in the coolant will cause an idle problem. Air will keep the air temp sensor from sending proper info.
Hope this helps.
Sometimes that's caused by a vacuum leak near the manifold area.
Sometimes air in the coolant will cause an idle problem. Air will keep the air temp sensor from sending proper info.
Hope this helps.
very open question but its usually the idol control sensor. its attached to a cable usually open in the engine compartment. pulling this cable which goes back into the firewall will rev the engine. once you find the cable, find the bolt that attaches to the cable and tighten the cable, this will ajust at what RPM the car idols at and keep it from stalling when you let off the gas.
the ( iac ) idle air control is sticking and needs cleaned. heres how to clean. locate it on the throttle body, remove wire connector, remove the torx screws that hold it on. when off of car. clean valve on end you can use a old toothbrush or similar to do this. do not push in on valve it will mess up idle setting. on the 3.1 the setting is 1 and 1/8 from tip of valve to body of iac. you can use gumout spray or throttlebody cleaner. here are a few symtoms-- stalls after starts, when cold or hot. stalling on deceleration, stalls at idle, unstable idle, low idle, or stuck on high idle. hope this helps !
This sounds like a classic case of either a dirty/faulty IAC (Idle Air Control) motor or a sticking EGR valve. If you can prevent it from stalling by keeping your fot on the gas slightly and it always restarts right away and runs good when restarted, I'd suspect the IAC first. If it "chugs"when stopping and will run rough even with a little (not a lot) of gas pedal and/or it runs rough when restarted, I'd suspect the EGR.
this can be caused by and usually is a sludged up idle speed control valve, follow the instructions below to correct this , Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.
If you notice the car running rich(black smoke out of the exhaust) you might look at the MAP sensor. It is a common problem with these cars,and about 50 bucks at your local parts store. You will find it on the passenger side inner fender just in front of the strut tower, it is a small black box with one vaccum line and one elec. plug. try pulling off the vac. line and plugging it with a bolt the car should idle like that, if it does, you have found your problem. Hope this helps
check the cylinder pressure. Mine does the same, and is suspected to be due to a worn cylinder or worn valves leaking. (do your valves click too?) Supposedly, the leak in pressure is causing less efficient combustion which leads to the fumes and slight loss of power / MPG. I haven't been able to open the engine to test mine yet. I am waiting until I can put in new valves, etc. before I go in.
The other thing that you may want to check is the thermostat. When my got stuck open a few years back, it had similar symptoms. Turns out when started, the engine wasn't allowed to warm up to normal operating temperature because the cooling system was triggered by the faulty temperature sensor to try to cool the engine down. Once it warmed up everything was back to normal. The most noticeable thing about this is prior to the problem, the engine would idle really high at start up for about 30-45 seconds, then settle into it's idle pur. One day it just started and immediately went to idle, and sometimes would require gas to keep it from stalling. The problem would not occur if the engine was warm. Putting in the new temperature sensor solved it.
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