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I have a 200o Ford Tayrus and the heat and air doesn't work unless it is full but now I am losing coolant from lower passeger side driping pretty steady and my car is overheating
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Item
Part Number
Description
1
18A318
Vacuum Control Motor-, Panel/Defrost Door
2
18A478
Panel/Defrost Door (Full Vacuum Position)
3
-
Defrost Air Flow
4
-
Side Window Demister Air Flow
5
18B545
Temperature Blend Door (Full Heat Position)
6
19860
A/C Evaporator Core
7
19A813
Air Inlet Duct Door (Full Vacuum Position)
8
-
Outside Air Inlet
9
18A318
Vacuum Control Motor-, Air Inlet Duct Door
10
-
Recirculated Air Inlet
11
18527
Blower Motor
12
19A566
A/C Vacuum Reservoir Tank and Bracket
13
-
Vacuum from the Engine Intake Manifold
14
19B888
A/C-Heater Function Selector Switch
15
-
Vacuum to the 4x4 Hub Solenoids
16
18495
Water Diverter Valve (Full Vacuum Position)
17
18476
Heater Core
18
18A559
Floor/Panel Door (Full Vacuum Position)
19
-
Floor Air Flow
20
18A318
Vacuum Control Motor-, Floor/Panel Door
21
-
Panel Vent Air Flow
Sounds like an air pocket in the coolant system. Those can be a pain, some cars have bleed valves to help. If there is an air pocket, it will seem to be full of coolant, but when the air pocket gets to the heater core it gets stuck there and guess what? No heat, because you won't get any heat unless hot coolant is in the heater core. Old fashioned way is to open the system and keep pouring coolant in at operating temp with heat on full until all the air is pushed out. If it has a bleed valve that can be helpful. Have seen this problem on many vehicles.
PO116 Engine coolant range tempreature circuit.
I would change the temp sensor and first make sure the coolant is full in the rad with no air in the system.
check antifreeze level make sure its full with antifreeze and not just water if full check heater core for leaks see if it is antifreeze on the passenger side floor
First, check to make sure the coolant level is full...if not, it will bypass the heater core. Next, try replacing the thermostat and radiator cap. These are both inexpensive, and it's a good idea to replace them periodically. Finally, you may need to replace your heater core. Unless you are mechanically inclined, this is something best left to a mechanic. The difficulty of changing this ranges from vehicle to vehicle.
At the radiator, drain and then flush with water then add 1 gallon of new antifreeze and top off with cool water. Now the cooling system will work.
If you have not performed routine maintenance on your cooling system - it will clog the heater in 10 years or less. Sometimes a bottle of radiator flush (purchased at any walmart or kmart) can clear the heater core - but you will have to run it with the heater on full heat setting for a few hours of driving.
sounds like you may have an air bubble trapped. Try loosening the radiator cap & running the engine at 1500 rpms till the thermstat opens & see if you can "burp" the air out. You may lose a little coolant this way. shut off car & recheck coolant in radiator and reservoir bottle. Just because reservoir is full, doesn't mean radiator is full.
the very first thing to check is your radiator full . when you coolant level is low this is one of the first signs.
if the rad is full let me know and we will help you with more tests
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