I need a left front fender & undercarriage. 1985 Honda Accord 2 door hatch back..I need one..now :) I am in Phoenix, Az

Is that a question? Is it dented badly? Can you not open the door and see the bolts in the door jamb? Then others right under the hood? Then you may have some behind your fender liner. Maybe even a bolt or two under your rocker panel. You have to open you hood, your door and remove the bolts. If it doesn't feel loose, then you have more bolts. Or was this a question as to the cost of having one removed? Most costs for removal are also a cost for installation of a fender as well. Simply removing a fender and putting one back on is not very time consuming, so long as there is no damage. The cost arises when you try to put a fender back on but nothing lines up. Just to change a fender out your labor is about 75 to 100 bucks. If you need body work or paint it can be anywhere from 100 to 500 dollars. Typically, if it isn't crazy damaged you can get a brand new, after market, primer black fender for about 75 to 100 bucks and installation for about the same. With paint? Depends on the color. Red is expensive--- gold, silver, or black is cheaper. From start to finish with damage and cost of fender and paint is about 300 to 4oo bucks. I recommend you find a painted one the same color and break out your size 10mm socket and ratchet and do it yourself. Car Part com Used Auto Parts Market Use DISTANCE in your search criteria, as you dont want to have to have a fender shipped. Good luck. I hope this helped?

If you car is fuel injected the pump is probably inside the gas tank!

You can check under the floor mats back in the hatch/trunk to see if you have an access panel. The pump sits right under it.

Good luck and be careful.

Should have kept going-it's just screws or bolts, but some are almost hidden-like front of fender and rear along door opening. Take off fender lining and look some more.
I sort of know what you mean-can be hard to get to the door hinges. have you tried like a universal joint in your ratchet and socket?

Below is the wiring setup for your car:

1990-93 Honda Accord Stereo Wiring
Constant 12V+ White/Yellow Switched 12V+ Yellow/Red Ground Black Illumination Red/Black Dimmer n/a Antenna Trigger Yellow/White Antenna Left Rear Front Speakers 6 1/2" Doors Left Front (+) Blue/Green Left Front (-) Gray/Black Right Front (+) Red/Green Right Front (-) Brown/Black Rear Speakers 6 1/2" Rear Deck Left Rear (+) Blue/Yellow Left Rear (-) Gray/White Right Rear (+) Red/Yellow Right Rear (-) Brown/White Best of luck,
Greg

As I remember, you need to remove the front seat belt mount, & completely remove the back seats, in order to remove the rear door cards, without breaking them.
Have fun;)

1995 Honda Accord Stereo Wiring Constant 12V+ Blue/White Switched 12V+ Yellow/Red Ground Black Illumination Red/Black Dimmer n/a Antenna Trigger Yellow/White Antenna Left Rear Front Speakers 5 1/4" Doors Left Front (+) Blue/Green Left Front (-) Gray/Black Right Front (+) Red/Green Right Front (-) Brown/Black Rear Speakers 6 1/2" Rear Door Left Rear (+) Blue/Yellow Left Rear (-) Gray/White Right Rear (+) Red/Yellow Right Rear (-) Brown/White

scrap it

I had the same problem. A weather mat got stuck when the hatch closed. After freeing the mat, the hatch would not open. The lock button would go up and down, but the hatch stayed locked.
What happened was the the plastic holder for the metal arm that connected the lock button to the mechanism broke.
There are no screws holding the inside panel, just metal tab clips.
First, I took off the inside close handle--2 bolts. Then I had to work my way from the center tail light, unscrewing it and popping off the left and right trim pieces--metal tab clips. These were covering the back panel. Now the hard part was getting the back panel off. It does pop off and I found it very hard to get something behind the edges.
The plastic holder that held the metal connector in place had broke. I used two plastic pull ties to hold the connector in it's place. Reversed the procedure and it works again.

Constant 12V+ White/Yellow
Switched 12V+ Yellow/Red
Ground Black
Illumination Red/Black
Dimmer n/a
Antenna Trigger Yellow/White
Antenna Left Rear
Front Speakers 6 1/2" Doors
Left Front (+) Blue/Green
Left Front (-) Gray/Black
Right Front (+) Red/Green
Right Front (-) Brown/Black
Rear Speakers 6 1/2" Rear Deck
Left Rear (+) Blue/Yellow
Left Rear (-) Gray/White
Right Rear (+) Red/Yellow
Right Rear (-) Brown/White

you will need to remove the 2 front signal lights by loosening the single captive screw on each of them. under the signal lights , you will see 2 14" bolts holding each side of the bumper. make sure you loosen the screws that hold the bumber to the fenders.