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I have a 1984 mazda rx-7 it has a new distributer cap,a new rotor button, new plug wires ,new spark plugs and 2 new coils, the coils are firing through to the rotor button inside the distibuter cap,the engine block does have a perfect ground,but i cannot get fire to go through the spark plug wires to the spark plugs.
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No spark is no spark - did you check that at the coil? If OK, bad coil to distributer wire or connectors, problem with cap/rotor, wrong plug connections (firing order), timing way out of spec, etc.
if you have fire on the number one cylinder,it means that the ignition coil is working so your problem can come from spark plug wire or cap and rotor . unplug the wire from ignition coil to distributor and check for fire you are suppose to have fire because you saying having fire on cylinder one. from there change cap of distributor and rotor plus a set a spark plug wire.
Quite easy actually. There are two rotors 1 - front and 2 - rear. there are two plugs per rotor Trailing - top and Leading - lower.
The distributor cap has letters and combination letters/numbers on it (if it does not you need to get a good quality cap) L and T and L1 T1 L2 T2 L is leading coil, T trail coil, pretty self explanatory from there
My recommendation from nearly 40 experience with rotary's is to use Mazda Mitsubishi Cap Rotor and NGK wires and plugs. Has been good enough for factory race teams also.
An issue with most aftermarket rotors is that they do not fit properly and can cause changes in timing and worse case, damage both cap and rotor.
If your tach does not work that is a symptom. Of course a timing light is most useful. If not you can coil wires (swap with known good wire) ; check ignitor,(swap trail/lead ignitor plugs at distributor) coil, check with ohm meter.
Trailing ignitors are very common failures, especially when either jump starting or being jump started when a battery is stone dead. What happens is there can be a huge power spike through the ignition system damaging the electronics in the ignitor. 90% of trailing ignitor failures happen during a jump start procedure.
At this age though, wires and coils can be suspect. My recommendation for ignition parts, Mazda Mitsubishi Cap/rotor and NGK wires and plugs. They are good enough for Mazda factory race teams and I have been using them since 72 with no ignition related failures in racing or all the street vehicles that have been maintained. Most critical is the fit of the rotor, it should be very hard to install, very tight fit. If loose the rotors have a tendency to rotate and move causing changes in timing and at worse damaging the cap and rotor.
If the wires are still in the distributer, AND, if you have a stock intake manifold, the firing order is on the manifold. If it's a V-8, the number 1, 3, 5, & 7 plugs are on the drivers side of the engine. The number 2, 4, 6, & 8 plugs are on the passenger side. The number 1 plug wire can be located by looking at the distributer from the front of the engine and visually looking between the distributer and the number 1 plug. Visualize the distributer as a clock. The number one position should be located between 4 and 5 o'clock and should have the longest wire of those on that side of the distributer.
If the wires have been pulled from the distributer, then, then, remove the rotor cap, turn the engine over slowly until the rotor is pointing to the number 1 plug. Using the firing order on the intake manifold, starting with number 1, replace the wires going clockwise around the distributer.
take the distributor cap off, and have somebody crank the engine while you watch the rotor, if the rotor isn't turning, then the distributor shaft is broken
Also, if you have not done so, replace distributor cap
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