1986 honda integra efi.Only running on 2 cylinders.Have spark on all cylinders

If you have already checked the spark plugs, plug wires, fuel injectors, and distributor and are still experiencing a misfire in cylinder 1 and 2, here are a few more things you can check:

1. Compression: Check the compression in cylinder 1 and 2 using a compression tester. Low compression could cause a misfire in one or both cylinders.
2. Vacuum Leak: Check for a vacuum leak by inspecting all hoses and fittings for cracks, damage, or looseness. You can also use a smoke machine or propane torch to locate any leaks.
3. Ignition Coil: Check the ignition coil to ensure it is functioning properly. You can do this by swapping the coils from cylinder 1 and 2 with the coils from another cylinder and see if the misfire follows the swapped coil.
4. Fuel Pressure: Check the fuel pressure to ensure it is within the manufacturer's specifications. Low fuel pressure can cause misfires.
5. EGR Valve: Check the EGR valve to ensure it is functioning properly. A malfunctioning EGR valve can cause misfires.
6. PCM/ECU: If all other components have been checked and are functioning properly, it is possible that the PCM/ECU (Powertrain Control Module/Engine Control Unit) may be faulty and may need to be replaced.

It is recommended to perform these checks in a methodical manner to narrow down the cause of the misfire. If you are not comfortable performing these checks yourself, it is recommended that you seek the assistance of a professional technician.

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My '92 Integra cranks but does not s

sounds like total lost of engine power, or the brakes are frozen in ice.
if you can push car by and with brakes off , is the engine bad.
the clutch is not bad, if you stall any engine.
so what engine,, they use many on Acura's
cant fix the engine or know EFI with out that fact.
Generic.
lost compression on any or all cylinders.
bad fueling. (lost fuel pressure)
its most likely not spark if it idles nice, but doing the 60k tuneup
is real good idea now that it dont run ,now.

old sparks can work with lose speed then under load misfire.

one of the best posts ever, of 4000. even EX model and dizzy maker.
wow. !
my guess, is it passes a time 4 spark tests.
the 1st rule of all EFI systems is.
1: if the ECU even THINKS (sic) there is no spark it MUST cut fuel.
the ECU has 3 ways to find bad spark (not all ways)
A: spark read back signal dead. (dtc 8? or 15)
B: CMP dead,
C: CKP dead.
the ECU will in fact flash the codes out to tell you which of the 3 are dead, if dead. ever do that yet? (code 4,8,9, 15)? others?
this is called by me, "crash and burn logic", (EFI Rules)

So never ever, troubleshoot fuel loss. with out doing all the above first.
1988 to 2013 cars, all work the same.(EFI)
some cars only activate the fuel pump cranking and running.
that be rule 2:

the ECUis covered in the FSM>
here is a free FSM.

recap,
test for spark using a test spark plug x4 (and at coil if easy)
do the scan, of the ECU, the winky blinky test, using the JUMPER.
first.

no start , crank perfectly
so , got spark?
the ECU has programming (ROM) and in fact kills all fueling with no spark , (even if it thinks there is no spark, even if spark is ok)
all ECU use a way to read back spark quality, (ALL){LAWS}
how honda does it in code, i don't know , see C R O M E forum)
turn the key over means nothing to me.?? sorry, it doent/
try saying what postion? cranking? or just keyon.
now some more EFI rules.
The EFI (some) do not activate the pump relay until cranking.
some do just key on for 3 seconds, read the FSM, its free.
need a link to the free manual? read the ECU logic on that.?
and prime has a special meaning, it means purge air,
its not for fuel. some system send a fast prime pulse. to clear air from the pressure lines, this plus does not inject.
that is how EFI works,

the flow
1: key on, ECU sends prime pulse, (air purge)
2: some ecu, run pump for 3 seconds, and pressure hits 35psi? RTM.
3: all ecu activate pump cranking and running.
4: now check pressure. !" 36 psi FSM stated spec"
5: now crank, if the ECU sees no spark errors, it injects
6: if the ECU sees WOT. it stops injection to clear a flood, cranking.
those rules cover most ECU made.

honda this year has a special feature called,
Fuel Cut-Off Control'
if this messes up, it i can cut fuel
does this help?
even better is this site, (has all the facts..)
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=810101

what engine?
fails hot engine, or cold engine and what engine of the many?
seems dont work in repairs.
ever do a tuneup ever?
sinces it sometimes runs we can check off bad engine. of the 4.
here they are. NO STARTS:
1: loss of 12vdc electric power to the EFI system. (dash lights dim?)
2: bad engine (skip this)
3: bad spark , seems is not an option here, we test all spark at all cylinders using a good new test spark plug.
Its a honda, and we check timing, too,, using , a timing light.
if the spark is good and timing is bad, then the timing belt slipped
if it slips more, the valve in the head bend. end of motor.
sometimes no starts, saves the engine, from itself. so i do spark 100% or better, on all honda's, i do a cylinder leak down test by hand
so i dont MAKE IT WORSE. (it's and interference engine)
4: bad fueling, flooding or starvation, readling spark plug tips tells me
which it is.

3.0L & 3.2L is Non-Interference , no engine stated. so ....

If your vehicle is EFI make the first compression test.If all right check the injectors 1st&2nd. If all right change hydraulic inlet lifters 1st&2nd.

Several engines here:
* 1.8L (B18B1 and B18C1) Engines Firing order: 1-3-4-2 Distributor rotation: Clockwise



* 2.2L (F22B1) and 2.3L (F23A1) Engines Firing order: 1-3-4-2 Distributor rotation: Clockwise



* 2.5L (G25A4) Engine Firing order: 1-2-4-5-3 Distributorless ignition system



* 3.0L (C30A1) Engine Firing order: 1-4-2-5-3-6 Distributorless ignition system (one coil per cylinder)



* 3.0L (J30A1) Engine Firing order: 1-4-2-5-3-6 Distributor rotation: Counterclockwise



* 3.2L and 3.5L Engines Firing order: 1-2-3-4-5-6 Distributorless Ignition System




Hope helped with this (remember rated this help) Good luck.

Yes, remove all of the spark plugs, and test each cylinder individually. This will tell if the gasket has sealed properly. Once you get the engine running, do this again to see if it can hold combustion pressures.

It cranks really good sputters a little and makes some loud pops but it will not turn over? FYI:Cranking and turning over are the same thing. When was the last time it ran. The gas could be bad. Did you get new plug wires as well. Try testing the distributor, remove a spark plug, plug it back into the wire, and touch the threads to ground and crank the engine. It should spark. Keep your fingers away, that's high voltage. Remove all spark plugs, spray some starting fluid in each cylinder, then crank the engine with the plugs out. This will clean any debris from the cylinders. Engines need backpressure to run properly, a major exhaust leak hence the popping, could cause it to not run. If you can get it started try to keep it going, full throttle, keep in the starting fluid, it could just need to get warm. I used to have one of them and they don't like it when they're cold.