I'm replacing the brake pads but don't have money for new discs right now. Is it ok to put on new pads for a couple of weeks and then new discs?

The brake lining's have worn away, the squealing was metal to metal (worn pad against metal disc) The worn pad will have damaged the brake disc. Very dangerous. You will now have to have new brake pads and discs fitted to BOTH front wheels to put it right. Good luck

remove caliper, push disc all way home, put wheel nut on to hold home, retry fitting them the disc may be slightly scued. If no go try diffrent brand of pad I had same prob with a diffrent car last week & diffrent brand pad was 2mm thiner. If can't exchange pads get piece of emery paper on flat surface & sand away top part of pad material in round motions both ways till they fit. :-)

Front brakes are very simple to do:

• Pull off the front tires.
• Remove the brake pads by removing the slide pin bolts where the piston assembly attaches to the caliper mounting bracket. The slide pin bolts are usually a 12 or 14mm bolt. Once the piston assembly is free slide the old brake pads out.
• Compress the piston back into the caliper by using a large pair of channel lock pliers or a c-clamp. If you don't do this, you won't be able to get the new pads on.
• Before you put the new pads on, replace the rotor.
• Remove the two bolts for the caliper mounting bracket. They are in the back and are bigger than the slide pin bolts. Usually a 17 or 19mm bolt.
• Pull off the caliper mounting bracket.
• At this point the old rotor should slide right off. If it doesn't slide right off, look for a screw in the center of the rotor, some cars will have a screw there to hold the rotor on. If there's no screw and it still won't come off, try tapping it with a hammer. If you're replacing the rotor, don't be shy.
• Put the new rotor on. Make sure to clean off any grease with brake cleaner that may be on the braking surface from packaging.
• Put the caliper mounting bracket back on.
• Put the new brake pads on. Make sure to use some anti-squeal grease on the back of the pads.
• Put the caliper assembly back on with the slide pins. Grease up the slide pins as well.
• Put the wheels back on.
• Make sure to pump your brakes 10 - 15 times before you drive off. Because you compressed the piston back into the caliper, the piston will not be contacting the brake pads unless you pump the brakes.

Good Luck!
~Brandon

Brake discs with pads need to be changed both sides on the same axle. Slacken the lug nuts and then lift the corner of the car and remove the wheel. Put a screwdriver tip between the brake pad and the disc and twist until a couple of millimeters of gap has opened up, do this front and back of the disc. Now remove the two large caliper securing bolts and lift the caliper up. locate the caliper body so that its weight does not pull on the rubber brake hose ( piece of wire to hold it temporarily to the strut spring is good). The disc is located by a couple of small screws. Remove these and the disc will come off the wheel studs. Fit the new disc and reinstate by reversing the steps above. Note if you have pushed the pads back far enough when removing the calipers then the caliper should refit easily over the unworn and therefore fatter new disc even with new pads fitted. put a small dab of anti-seaze grease (CopperEaze or similar) on the back of each pad as this will prevent squeal. Tighten the caliper bolts thoroughly when reassembling. Remember to pump the brake peddle back to pressure to re-seat the new pads to discs before test driving. Now do the same to the other side. If you are new to this the fist wheel is a voyage of discovery and the second wheel will take a quarter of the time.

Jack up the front end remove tire onthe brake pad assembly there will be two Hex head bolts these will be probably a 3/8 u can use a big Alan wrench u will also need a small pipe to use a breaker bar and some WD 40 as these bolts are probably rusted just a bit,once u have the bolts out u should be able to remove the brake pad assembly,u might need a rubber malet to help with this,OK u got this off take the new brake pads out of the boxs,pay speial attention to the back of them,now take a big screw driver a pry just one of the brake pad off if u do the side with the caliber on it,(this is the round thing that pushes the brake pad on to the disk to stop the car)There is a clip take this clip off look that the back of the brake pad find the new brake pad that has the same notches in it put the clip on it the same way it came off put it back on the caliber,ok take the other one off,nothice the clip might be made in to the brake pad assembly on this side if not put clip in to same notches,Ok now u have replace the brake pads u will notice that the brake assembly will not go back on, not to fear take a Clean rag place it on the pad on the caliber side get a pair of channel locks now compress the caliber abit now it should side right on replace bolts and u are good to go do other side the same way.

They are rather easy to replace, disconnect the brake hose, and remove the caliper as you did replacing the pads. You'll need to then bleed the caliper until clear fluid, with no air bubbles come from the bleeder screw. Check that you don't have a collapsed brake hose, not letting the fluid return to the master cylinder.

Here is Video of How to replace front brake pads and rotors, and rear brake pads on toyota camry solara 2006

It is a disc brake pad indicator. It means its time to get your brakes inspected and the pads likely replaced. Normally, your front pads will wear quicker than the rear pads.

Get it checked on at your earliest opportunity. Brake jobs are cheap until you wait too long and start wearing into your brake rotors.

did u checked the disc? was is flat and nice? or did it had scratches along the diameter of the disc? the pads need very flat rotors for them to work,
it can be that the pads are too flat and hard because they are brand new and the disc may be deformed...have them checked
hope this helps

Several possible causes:

1. Did you use copper-based brake grease on the brake pins and the back of the pads?
2. Did you clean all the old gunk off the brake pins and after doing so, where they deeply grooved? If so, you must replace them.
3. Wrong brake pads. Some pad manufacturers list a patricular pad as being OK for a vehicle. They fit OK but the pad characteristics are wrong and they squeal like crazy or wear out in no time or give lousy raking performance etc.
4. If the pads you removed had anti-squeal shims on the back of them did the new ones? They almost certainly should have. IIRC, they are held to the pads by some double-sided adhesive tape.
5. If you get squeak-silence-squeak-silence... at low speed (i.e. just before coming to a halt) then the disk(s) is/are distorted. They will have to be replaced. You must not machine the discs on these brakes - there is no thickness available to do that. If you do tthey may well collapse under the heavy braking of an emergency stop with very unfortunate consequences!
6. As someone said, the disc may be badly worn and/or grooved -check and replace if necessary.
7. You may have a stone or piece of grit stuck between a pad and a disc. If so & it's worn a groove in the disc,you will need to replace both disc and pad.
8. Make sure you torqued any brake bolts correctly and that you put thread sealant on them. Failure to do so can lead to them loosening in normal use. The brakes may squeak for a while if this happens but then things can get much worse...