Do you need a slide hammer to seperate half shaft to get to outer rear wheel bearing on 1997 suzuki vitara

no end of car stated, now that makes this impossible
but ill guess front. and guess 2 , 4wd ,?????????
and at what step in process you got stuck>????

all that , just all that..
all that is in the FSM, ever heard off a factory service manual.
or alldata.com
or this.
$4 bucks to look.
https://suzukipitstopplus.com/Products/1191-2001-vitara-grand-vitara-service-manual.aspx
before buying $500 suzuki tools, be it known , generic tools work.

the wheel bearing
ill paste some clues.
I have a printed FSM. (and all above)
here is the factory page
http://www.fixkick.com/hubs/vitara/new-vit-hubs.pdf

the bearing are never replaced in this car, you replace the whole hub.
that is how its done. if you want to break the rules.
then you get to work blind, what bearings are there, , its not publish.
then you get to find that out, and then find a shop to presses them in
and after all that ,its 5x the cost of a hub.
so>>>>>/???

see end of this page for GV front hubs
http://www.fixkick.com/hubs/vitara/new-vit-hubs.pdf

see the list of complex options there. see that.?
2wd, 4wd,?
my guess is yours is 4wd, guess 2.
and uses photo 10 there.

see grapic 10 ,see part id 11?
you pull that off with any slide (slam) hammer made.
then remove the looking ring with special tool used by suzuki
since 1989
then the hub falls off. or if in salt belt,(wiki that)you again
use the slide hammer and bam its off

Pit fall 1,
if you fail to set the nut ring 11 to 156 (or to spec) foot/pounds torque
the bearing will fail in 1000 miles.
see TIMKEN bearing tests proof of that fact, it is a fact.
for all CRUSH bearings.....

old post.
and axles , really?
RTM

https://suzukipitstopplus.com/Products/1064-2005-forenza-reno-service-manual.aspx

$4 bucks to read the manual.
such a deal .

here is the GV , page. its same really
http://www.fixkick.com/hubs/vitara/new-vit-hubs.pdf

2001 + have the newer bearing hubs, unitized.
http://www.fixkick.com/hubs/no-crush.JPG


removing is easy, putting back right far harder.

see end hub #4
pull that with slide hammer, after removing screws #6
remove 7,8,9 and then using special tool pull ring 11.
with slide hammer pull, bearing hub.#1

RTM read the manual , at pitstop above
or the factory service manual , FSM
or at alldata.com,

look for out of round tires or a bent axle.

You will need an internal bearing puller. You will have to remove the rear axle by pulling off the differential cover. Then remove the bolt holding the spider gear cross shaft in place. Remove the shaft and spider gears. If your tire is already removed and brake drum is off, push in the axle and remove the circle clip. Once this is out you can slide your axle out you can remove the backing plate for your brakes and get to the bearing. Pull the seal out and pull out the bearing with a puller and slide hammer. Install the new bearing by hitting on the outside race ONLY. Install a new seal and install in reverse order.

YOU NEED A PULLER ON THE OUTSIDE WHEEL HUB PUSHING THE HALF SHAFT FROM THE FRONT HUB,THEN TAP THE SHAFT UNION AT THE JOINT CASE WITH A PLASTIC HAMMER TO REMOVE THE HALFSHAFT AND INNER SHAFT FROM THE TRANSAXLE. IF YOU HAVE AN INNER SHAFT REMOVE THE HALFSHAFT BY SETTING UP A PULLER ON THE OUTSIDE WHEEL HUB AND PRESSING THE HALFSHAFT FROM THE FRONT HUB. AFTER PRESSING THE OUTER SHAFT INSERT A PRYBAR BETWEEN THE TRANSAXLE CASE AND THE HALFSHAFT AND PRY THE HALF SHAFT FROM THE TRANSAXLE DONT PULL ON THE SHAFT.

hi, if rear wheel drive. loosen wheel nuts DO NO TAKE THEM OFF place (IMPORTANT TO SECURE CAR) bricks front and back of front wheel. then jack the car up take the wheel OFF undo philips screw holding disk on. the brake caliper needs to come off DO NOT TAKE BRAKE FLUID FEED OFF THE CALIPER and the hand brake cable. once all parts are off there should 4 bolts holding the back plate take these off. you will need a HEAVY SLIDE HAMMER TO EXTRACT HALF SHAFT. if you have seperate hand brake the brake SHOES need to be removed. TAKE NOTE OF SPRINGS. SHAPES, AND WHERE AND WITCH WAY AROUND THEY FIT. SHOULD NOT BE ATEMTED BY NONE MEHANICAL PERSON IT IS VERY DIFFICULT AND BRAKE SAFTEY MUST APPLY. gerry

The Constant Velocity (CV) joints are located on the inner and outer edges of the axle shaft. The axle shaft runs through the hub and bearing in the spindle.

YOU HAVE TO SAFELY RAISE SUPPORT VECHICLE MAKE SURE ITS ON A SOLID LEVEL GROUND.THEN YOU REMOVE THE WHEELS THE BRAKE DRUM OR DISC.THEN YOU REMOVE THE NUTS THAT ATTACH THE OUTER SEAL RETAINER AND BRAKE BACKING PLATETO THE AXLE SHAFT TUBE.DISCARD THE NUTS.REMOVE AXLE SHAFT FROM HOUSING.WITH AN AXLE PULLER ATTACHED TO A SLIDE HAMMER.DISCARD INNER AXLE SEALPOSITION THE AXLE SHAFT IN A VISE.REMOVE THE RETAINING RING BY DRILLING A 1/4 HOLE ABOUT 3/4 OF THE WAY THROUGH THE RING. THEN USING A COLD CHISEL OVER THE HOLE.SPLIT THE RING.REMOVE THE BEARING WITH A ARBOR PRESS DISCARD THE SEAL AND REMOVE THE RETAINER PLATE.TO INSTALL - CLEAN THEN APPLY A THIN COATING OF WHEEL BEARING LUBRICANT TO THE BEARING AND SEAL CONTACT SURFACES APPLY WHEEL BEARING LUBRICANT TO THE LIPS OF THE REPLACEMENT INNER AND OUTER SEALS.INSTALL THE INNER SEAL WITH THE OPEN END OF THE SEAL FACING INWARD ENSURE IT IS COMPLETELY SEATED.INSTALL THE RETAINER PLATE AND THE OUTER SEAL ON THE SHAFT.ENSURE THE OPEN END OF THE SEAL FACES TOWARD THE AXLE SHAFT BEARING.PACK THE REPLACEMENT BEARING WITH WHEEL BEARING LUBRICANT AND POSITION ON THE AXLE SHAFT PRESS INTO PLACE.PRESS A REPLACEMENT BEARING RETAINER ON THE AXLE SHAFT AGAINST THE BEARING.INSTALL THE AXLE INTO THE AXLE TUBE.POSITION AND ALIGN THE SEAL RETAINER AND BRAKE SUPPORT PLATE AND INSTALL REPLACEMENT ATTACHING NUTS.TIGHTEN NUTS TO 32 FT LBS.INSTALL BRAKE ASSEMBLY WHEELS LOWER VECHICLE. YOU SAID REAR BEARINGS IF THIS WHAT YOU MEANT.I HOPE THIS CAN HELP.

is it a 4x4? the wheel bearing comes with a new hub assembley . Just find out what size the front half shaft nut/ lock nut/axle nut- is. its probably a 33mm thats the only special tool you will need. Unscrew it, take your outer tie rod off the spindle/steering knuckle, theres 3 bolts behind it, take them off then disconect the abs harness and pry out the old hub assembley use a rubber hammer (dead blow hammer) to tap the half shaft out if seized. when installing the new wheel bearing see your manufacturer specs. for torquing the axle nut back on.

Tools needed- typical socket and ratchet set, Axle slide hammer, Wiz Wheel type rotary cut off tool, chisel, ball pein hammer, hydraulic press, bech vice
First you must remove the rear wheels, then you must remove the brake capiler and mounting bracket, remove the brake rotor. unbolt 4 nuts on back side of brake dust shield that hold the seal and bearing securly in place. then you must attatch the slide hammer to the axle shaft by using the vehicles lug studs and lug nuts. use the slide hammer to knock the axle shaft out of the housing. it generally takes about 10-15 hard slams before it comes loose. once axle shaft is free to come out remove the slide hammer and pull the shaft from the axle tube. place the axle shaft into a vise and use the cut off wheel to cut off the bearing spacer. cut parralell to shaft until you hear a snap sound once it snaps use the hammer to slide the spacer off the end of the shaft. next you need to cut the bearing off the shaft using a the same technique being careful not the cut the shaft or the seal retainer plate. once the bearing is off then you can slide off the old axle seal. now slide on a new axle seal, axle bearing, and bearing spacer. take assembly to a hydraulic press and press the spacer and bearing onto the shaft until it seats squarely and make sure its all the way down onto the axle shaft. lubricate bearing with gear oil. and install shaft back into axle tube making sure that the recess in the seal retainer plate lines up with the abs sensor wire. tighten all nuts evenly top off gear oil