Rover 75 diesel starts ok runs 10 seconds then cuts out restarts ok injectors tested ok fuel pressure ok

I don't have experience of the engine but I believe it uses a common rail electronic diesel injection system.

These are complex and need a wealth of experience and diagnostic equipment to sort out some of the faults they seem to suffer from.

Generally the management computer won't send electric pulses to the injectors until the fuel pressure in the rail has reached a minimum value in a certain time of cranking.
If everything else appears ok, I suggest you revisit the fuel delivery to the high pressure pump. If you find nothing you can carry out a few basic tests with a multimeter but calling on an expert is more advisable.

black smoke = excessive fuel = bad injector tips , low injector pressure , turbo not working properly
take the car to an accredited diesel specialist professional for a pump pressure and injector pressure test, injector calibration and tip replacement

does it start and run for 3 seconds on test fuel

yes, engine ok, EFI bad.

no, bad engine, engine must be good to run.

EFI cant run bad engines..

so compression at spec......????



why beat the EFI to death,

all engines run on test fuel.

with gas engines, takes spark and good engine

on diesel, takes only good engine. simple huh (and some air)



for test fuel try diesel in a spray bottle into the injection port.

google this

or use youtube on test fuel on any diesel car. or truck



this is called basics....... basic basics.

1: good engine, and pumps air ok. (must breath)

2: good fuel.

3: test fuel works now. if not check above.

does it restart again? if so sounds like a fuel delivery/system pressure problem.is it petrol or diesel? change the fuel filter which ever it is, first thing to do. check for fault codes. and check the pressure if its a petrol,

If the injector you fitted is faulty..it wont build fuel pressure and start.Have an injector leak off test done to identify if injector(s) are faulty or not. Also check the low pressure pump underneath drivers rear behind wheel...will often jam before failing...if it dont run with ignition on / cranking...give it a little tap.

This is an unusual problem as injector pumps use diesel to lubricate internally and to cool the pump. For it to overheat and cause you problems means that fuel is escaping under high pressure or the operating pressure is excessive . Best discuss this with a professional diesel pump repair shop as I feel there is a serious problem in the pump.

Perhaps bleeding the fuel lines...air in diesel lines can do this a can build up in filters

You need 3 things.
Compression
Good hot blue spark to all plugs.
Good gasoline and proper fuel pressure. 63-64 lbs.
If you have all 3 then move on to injector pulse to all injectors.
I think each injector is on a separate driver on that one.
Check for pulse to all of them.

You may be weak on fuel pressure . Even a couple of lbs low on a cold start will cause a no start. Double check cold start cranking fuel pressure. If under 63-62 lbs you have problems.one test is to give it a squirt of carb cleaner not starting fluid. If you get a intake or engine full of starting fluid it can blow things. Carb cleaner will start it if it is a fuel problem and lot safer. Also in the good old days when i was a kid, i used to get a couple of cans of starting fluid and get in the back and have a good starting fluid spraying contest. Good for a big blast if someone lights a match. If it starts then you have a fuel pressure problem. Run the full fuel pressure test and post back pressures.

Here is the guide lines on testing.
Hard to start cold.
Check cold start fuel pressure.
Check engine running fuel pressure.
Check engine running on the road fuel pressure.
Then shut it off and watch for fast leak down.
Pinch off at rubber part or block off return line and check full pressure.
V8 gm engines should have 60-66 fuel pressure.
Cold start should be 64-65 lbs of pressure.
If you do not have full fuel pressure on a cold start the injectors will not squirt fuel. Do not leave home without it.
Engine running should be 60-66 lbs pressure depending on engine load.
Full pressure with return pinched off should be 75-85 or more.
And if it has a fast leak down after shut off you have a leak.

The 75-85 is only a check on the capable full pressure of fuel pump.
If you can not find the rubber return line check full pressure by plugging return line or just or the true full pressure can be taken direct at the end fuel filter.
What are the pressure readings that you have done.
What are your cold start pressure readings?

You may have gotten air in the fuel lines. Diesels cant deal with this as well as gas engines should be a purge / bleeder valve on the fuel lines to eliminate the air. may cough and sputter for a while

I see that you had the injectors replaced 20,000 miles ago. I would still check the oil to make sure it is not overfull. The new injectors could be bad. If the oil level is not overfull then get a paper towel and touch the dip stick tip on the paper towel while oil is on the dip stick. If it's only oil it will not spread. If it has diesel in the oil the oil with spread. If this test doesn't show the injectors to be bad then you have three other possibilities. The FICM (fuel injection control module), the fuel pressure regulator, or the injection pump. It's hard to pinpoint what the problem is without running more tests and the only way to run those tests is with the computer the dealership has. Just so you know your injectors are still under warranty until 100,000 miles. Most likely you will have to take it to the dealership to get you truck fixed. I hope this helps you some.