My car is a manual 5 speed, i have a hose that connects to electrical component under the master cylinder, and a hose line has disconnected from the engine somewhere, that goes to that component, i need some answers please

There isn't much to this circuit. Do you have all the pieces? You should have the master cylinder, slave cylinder, the intermediate hose, one steel roll pin, one steel cotter hair pin, one o-ring on the slave cylinder end, one seal for the master side and some brake fluid. The line is routed and slipped into place on both ends. The roll pin retains the master side and the hair pin retains the slave side. Any questions please write back.

STEERING SYSTEM - POWER -1996 Chrysler Concorde LX

POWER STEERING PRESSURE HOSE

Removal

WARNING: On models with Supplemental Restraint System (SRS), before any repairs are performed, disconnect and isolate battery ground cable. Failure to do so could result in accidental deployment of the air bag and possible personal injury.


1. Turn front wheels to straight-ahead position. Disconnect and isolate negative battery cable. On 3.5L engine, disconnect throttle cable from throttle body and cable bracket. On all models, remove wiper arms from wiper arm pivots. Remove 6 screws, cowl closure panel and weatherstrip as an assembly. 3. Disconnect air plenum from throttle body, PCV air tube and idle air control motor. Remove air plenum from right side of vehicle. Disconnect wiper module wiring harness. Remove wiper module from cowl panel. Remove power brake booster vacuum hose from intake manifold. Position hose aside. 4. On 3.5L models, disconnect and remove air inlet ducting to throttle bodies. Remove vacuum supply hose from power booster. Remove 2 nuts and remove brake master cylinder from power booster, with hydraulic lines connected, from power brake booster. Carefully position master cylinder against left shock tower. (REMOVE brake master cylinder only if it's in your way) 5. Remove P/S pressure hose and return hose from P/S gear. If equipped with speed proportional steering, disconnect electrical connectors from solenoid control module. Under number 5 above, only remove what you have to get out of your way, in order to remove the line that's leaking. If I remember right, the low pressure line comes off first. You may need to remove that big solenoid control module thing also, if it's in the way. A big crescent wrench I think is what I used on it. Or maybe it was a small crescent wrench with a large jaw.... Don't over tighten it when reinstalling. These things don't go in very tight. Neither do the lines. If in doubt, look up the torque spec on them first. The solenoid, I just put in a hair past snug. It didn't leak.

The pump side of the pressure line was a bear to get off of there. I finally cut it off. Then unscrewed part of the pump and the piece of the power steering line that was left hanging out. Put it in a bench vice, and wrenched them loose there. Put it back together with the new NAPA hose, and it works, and hasn't leaked a drop. Good Luck to you.

I know the numbering isn't quite right. That's because I borrowed this writeup from a post regarding power steering rack replacement, and edited it up to fit your situation. If you google the power steering rack replacement, you may find the torque specs for the power steering lines there. But you'll still have to use your arm as the torque wrench....

there are different ways to bench bleed the master depending on the tools available to you... did you receive a fitting, with or without a port for a small hose, in the new master box? if not then you should make one or get one at the parts store. you need to put the master in a vice (from the mount, not the body) and fill it with fluid. this is where the fitting comes in handy, you are going slowly depress the piston about half way at first having the fluid that comes out the port directed back into the reservoir with a hose. keep the hose submerged. if a vice and fittings are not available, you can mount the master in the vehicle, connect the line and fill with fluid. disconnect the line from the slave cylinder and submerge it in a container. press the pedal by hand slowly. make sure the line stays submerged and the master is never run dry. if everything is kept clean, you can reuse the fluid from the catch container.

its my pleasure to answer your question how to replace the brake booster :
1 With the engine off, step on the brake pedal several times to relieve the brake booster of vacuum.
2 Press the brake pedal down and start the engine. Verify that the brake pedal sinks slightly. Turn off engine.
3 Remove the vacuum hose from the brake booster.
4 Remove the brake lines from the master cylinder. Remove the master cylinder from the brake booster. Plug the fittings to prevent brake fluid seepage.
5 Disconnect the brake pedal from the push rod.
6 Have an assistant hold the brake booster from inside the engine compartment. Remove the nuts that hold the brake booster to the firewall. These nuts are usually located under the dash on the interior of the firewall.
7 Remove the brake booster.
8 Install the new brake booster to the firewall. Tighten the mounting nuts.
9 Connect the push rod to the brake pedal.
10 Connect the vacuum hose to the brake booster.
11 Attach the master cylinder to the new brake booster and reconnect the brake lines.
.12 Bleed the brakes at the master cylinder.

The following steps will help you to replace a Toyota Camry brake booster :
1 With the engine off, step on the brake pedal several times to relieve the brake booster of vacuum.
2 Press the brake pedal down and start the engine. Verify that the brake pedal sinks slightly. Turn off engine.
3 Remove the vacuum hose from the brake booster.
4 Remove the brake lines from the master cylinder. Remove the master cylinder from the brake booster. Plug the fittings to prevent brake fluid seepage.
5 Disconnect the brake pedal from the push rod.
6 Have an assistant hold the brake booster from inside the engine compartment. Remove the nuts that hold the brake booster to the firewall. These nuts are usually located under the dash on the interior of the firewall.
7 Remove the brake booster.
8 Install the new brake booster to the firewall. Tighten the mounting nuts.
9 Connect the push rod to the brake pedal.
10 Connect the vacuum hose to the brake booster.
11 Attach the master cylinder to the new brake booster and reconnect the brake lines.
.12 Bleed the brakes at the master cylinder.

12 specific steps will help you :
1 With the engine off, step on the brake pedal several times to relieve the brake booster of vacuum.
2 Press the brake pedal down and start the engine. Verify that the brake pedal sinks slightly. Turn off engine.
3 Remove the vacuum hose from the brake booster.
4 Remove the brake lines from the master cylinder. Remove the master cylinder from the brake booster. Plug the fittings to prevent brake fluid seepage.
5 Disconnect the brake pedal from the push rod.
6 Have an assistant hold the brake booster from inside the engine compartment. Remove the nuts that hold the brake booster to the firewall. These nuts are usually located under the dash on the interior of the firewall.
7 Remove the brake booster.
8 Install the new brake booster to the firewall. Tighten the mounting nuts.
9 Connect the push rod to the brake pedal.
10 Connect the vacuum hose to the vacuum brake booster.
11 Attach the master cylinder to the new brake booster and reconnect the brake lines.
.12 Bleed the brakes at the master cylinder.

from autozone.com:

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Apply the parking brake.
3. Unplug all necessary electrical connections.
4. Remove the master cylinder from the booster and pull it off the studs, CAREFULLY! It is not necessary to disconnect the brake lines.
5. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the check valve.
6. If necessary, remove the brake light switch.
7. Disconnect the booster pushrod at the brake pedal.
8. Remove the booster mounting nuts, located on the inside of the firewall.

Fig. Fig. 1: Vacuum booster mounting

1. Lift off the booster and remove the gasket.

To install:

1. Install the booster with a new gasket.
2. Tighten the booster mounting nuts to 21 ft. lbs. (29 Nm) on all except 1996-98 models. On 1996-98 models, tighten the nuts to 26 ft. lbs. (36 Nm).
3. Install all remaining components.

The booster is working properly if the pedal goes down a little when starting the truck. Seems more like it's a master cylinder problem if it won't pump up.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Fig. 1: Disconnect the warning indicator at the master cylinder
Fig. 2: Remove the fluid to minimize the amount that would otherwise inevitably be spilled
Fig. 3: Unscrew the line fittings at the master cylinder
Fig. 4: Hold a rag under the fittings to keep fluid from dripping all over things
Fig. 5: Unbolt the master cylinder from the brake booster
Fig. 6: Remove the master cylinder from the vehicle and set it in a clean location

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Apply the brake pedal several times to exhaust all the vacuum in the system.
3. Detach and cap the brake lines from the master cylinder.
4. If equipped, detach the brake warning indicator connector. NOTE: A turkey baster (tapered tube with a squeeze ball on top) works well for removing fluid from the reservoir (see photo).
   
5. Siphon off the fluid from the master cylinder reservoir to minimize spillage when lines are disconnected.
6. If applicable, disconnect and cap the Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU) supply hose at the master cylinder reservoir and secure in a position to prevent loss of fluid.
7. Unfasten the 2 nuts and lockwashers that attach the master cylinder to the brake booster.
8. Remove the master cylinder from the booster by sliding it forward and upward from the vehicle. To install:
   
9. Install a new seal in the groove in the master cylinder mounting face.
10. Position the master cylinder assembly over the booster pushrod and onto the 2 studs on the booster assembly.
11. Install the retaining nuts, then tighten to 18–25 ft. lbs. (24–34 Nm).
12. Uncap and connect the brake lines to the master cylinder. Tighten the front fitting to 16–21 ft. lbs. (21–29 Nm), and the rear fitting to 10–15 ft. lbs. (15–20 Nm).
13. Uncap and connect the HCU hose to the master cylinder reservoir fitting and secure with a hose clamp.
14. If equipped, connect the brake warning indicator.
15. Fill the master cylinder with Heavy Duty Brake Fluid C6AZ-19542-AA or equivalent DOT 3 brake fluid from a clean, sealed container. Bleed the entire brake system, as outlined in this section.
16. Connect the negative battery cable.
17. Operate the brake several times, then check for external hydraulic leaks.

a Master rates about a 5 out of 10 with 10 being the hardest

you may find the hardest part is the actual bench bleeding of the master
and/or
the replacement of the reservoir

These are the instructions from my service manual, but I do not remove the fluid prior to service steps 2-6

1. Disconnect battery ground cable. Disconnect electrical connector from filler cap.
2. Remove fluid reservoir filler cap.
3. Raise and support vehicle.
4. Remove front wheels.
5. Remove dust cap and loosen bleed nipple. Connect a bleed tube to bleed nipple and into a suitable container.
6. Pump brake pedal until all fluid is expelled. Tighten bleed nipple.
7. Lower vehicle. Install brake fluid reservoir cap. Remove air cleaner and air cleaner outlet tube.
8. Disconnect central electrical box electrical connector.
9. Remove central electrical box retaining screw.
10. Remove central electrical box and relocate to air cleaner area.
11. Disconnect brake fluid feed tube. Disconnect brake lines.
12. On models with anti-lock brakes, disconnect brake lines from Hydraulic Control Unit.
13. On all models, remove brake booster vacuum hose.
14. Extract master cylinder from vehicle.
15. On models with manual transaxles, remove clutch hose from brake/clutch reservoir.
16. On all models, remove master cylinder nuts and remove master cylinder.

To install, reverse removal procedure. Bleed brake system.

Brake Lines and Hoses
Double-walled steel line is used in the hydraulic lines between the brake master cylinder and the front tube connector, and between the brake master cylinder and the flexible brake hose at the rear wheels.
Double-flared brake lines provide good leak-proof connections.
When replacing hydraulic brake lines, hoses, or connectors, tighten all connections securely. After replacement, bleed the brake system; refer to Section 206-00 .
The wet appearance of the outer cover of the rubber brake hose is referred to as "sweating." This is a normal condition for neoprene rayon braid hose and is not a sign of leakage or cause for replacement of the hose.

Hydraulic Brake System Components — Non-ABS


Item Part Number Description 1 2005 Power Brake Booster 2 2455 Brake Pedal 3 2261 Rear Wheel Cylinder 4 2552 Rear Disc Brake Caliper— (Mexico Only) 5 2B120 Disc Brake Caliper—, Front 6 2B091 Brake Pressure Control Valves 7 2140 Brake Master Cylinder