Question about 1998 Chrysler Concorde

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Car will start with booster but stops running when removed

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Sounds like your alternator's gone. But...before you blaim the alternator, check your connection cables from the battery to your fuse relay station. Most of the time, a car starts up on the battery and as soon as the motor starts running, it switches over to Alternator power. if your alternator's screwed and your battery is good...the car will run off the battery until it kills it about 10 mins later. if your battery is shot and the alternator's bad and the car runs off the jump box, then you need an alternator.


Posted on Jan 07, 2010

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That sounds like either your alternator is bad which is causing the car to run off the battery or the battery isn't holding a charge.

Posted on Dec 12, 2009

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Replaced both clipers on rear and rotors,bleed the lines,good brake padel, they are hard don't want to stop the car right away, can anyone make help me on this issue i am having.


The most obvious cause for a hard pedal is simply not enough vacuum. Check the hose running to your booster.could be a bad check valve in booster. To check remove valve from booster hose, Blow through the valve, if you can blow through it, it is bad. if you cant its ok! With car off. Pump the brakes until all air is out of booster. Hold brake down, then start car. if the pedal sinks a little. the booster is ok. If above fails, replace booster. If need be, you can check the rear brakes and see if one is sticking first! Make sure the caliper pins are well greased and slide good. God-Bless! a sticking caliper will cause a hard pedal.

Sep 21, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

2008 bmw stop running when stoping 3.o engine


test the brake booster
start the car and idle with the handbrake on. If it idles ok then apply the foot brake
if the engine dies or stops --replace the brake booster
If the engine will not ilel without the foot brake check for a vacuum leak in --the transmission vacuum line , vent control lines or manifold leak.

Mar 08, 2015 | BMW X5 Series Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How do yyou check a ower booster 1989 ranger


HOW DO YOU TEST THE POWER BOOSTER ON A FORD RANGER, RUN THE ENGINE FOR A 30 SECONDS OR LESS IF IT WASN'T DRIVEN BEFORE, WITH ENGINE OF , REMOVE THE BIG HOSE ON TOP OF THE POWER BOOSTER, IS THERE ANY SUCTION NOISE, AT THE HOSE, NO, THE START THE ENGINE, MAKE SURE THE HOSE TO THE BOOSTER HAS MAJOR VACUUM, IF ALSO NO REPAIR THE HOSE FROM THE INTAKE TO THE BOOSTER, IF YES IS OK, THE BOOSTER DOES NOT HAVE A VACUUM NOISE THE DAIGFRAM IS BROKEN, HAS GOOD VACUUM, BOOSTER IS GOOD, HARD PEDAL COULD BE CAUSED BY BAD BRAKE HOSES OR BAD CALIPERS , WHERE MORE FORCE IS NEED IT TO STOP THE VEHICLE.

May 28, 2014 | 1988 Ford Ranger

2 Answers

When I start my car the brakes still stay hard they do not depress, you can barely stop the car , what may be the problem?


You will need to replace the Vaccum Booster Hose which runs from the intake manifold to the brake booster. I just fixed mine with parts from Partsgeek.com for less than 1/2 the dealer price. In addition to the Vaceum boster hose you will also need the booster adaptor which locks the vaccum booster hose to the intake manifold.

Nov 13, 2012 | 2002 Jaguar X-Type

1 Answer

Vw golf 2000 the brake pedal is to soft when you apply it and seems like is not going to stop but it does, what is the problem?


Not sure if you have done all this.



BRAKE BOOSTER INSPECTION

Functional test:
1. With the engine stopped, Depress the brake pedal several times, then depress the pedal hard and hold that pressure for 15 seconds. If the pedal sinks, the master cylinder, brake line or a brake caliper is faulty
2. Start the engine with the pedal depressed. If the pedal sinks slightly, the vacuum booster is working. If the pedal height does not vary, the booster or the check valve is faulty

Leak Test:
1. Depress the brake pedal with the engine running then stop the engine. If the pedal height does not vary while depressed for 30 seconds, the vacuum booster is OK. If the pedal rises, the booster is faulty
2. With the engine stopped, depress the brake pedal several times using normal pressure. When the pedal is first depressed, it should be low. On consecutive applications, the pedal height should gradually rise. If the pedal position does not vary, check the booster check valve.

Check valve test:
1. Disconnect the brake booster vacuum hose at the booster.
2. Start the engine and let it idle. There should be a vacuum available. If no vacuum is available, the check valve is not working correctly. Replace the check valve and retest.

END TEST

Nov 06, 2012 | Volkswagen Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Install power brake booster on 1988 ford ranger


REMOVAL & INSTALLATION NOTE: Make sure that the booster rubber reaction disc is properly installed if the master cylinder push rod is removed or accidentally pulled out. A dislodged disc may cause excessive pedal travel and extreme operation sensitivity. The disc is black compared to the silver colored valve plunger that will be exposed after the push rod and front seal is removed. The booster unit is serviced as an assembly and must be replaced if the reaction disc cannot be properly installed and aligned, or if it cannot be located within the unit itself.

  1. Disconnect the stop lamp switch wiring to prevent running the battery down.
  2. Support the master cylinder from the underside with a prop.
  3. Remove the master cylinder-to-booster retaining nuts.
  4. Loosen the clamp that secures the manifold vacuum hose to the booster check valve, and remove the hose. Remove the booster check valve.
  5. Pull the master cylinder off the booster and leave it supported by the prop, far enough away to allow removal of the booster assembly.
  6. From inside the cab on vehicles equipped with push rod mounted stop lamp switch, remove the retaining pin and slide the stop lamp switch, push rod, spacers and bushing off the brake pedal arm.
  7. From the engine compartment remove the bolts that attach the booster to the dash panel. To install:
  8. Mount the booster assembly on the engine side of the dash panel by sliding the bracket mounting bolts and valve operating rod in through the holes in the dash panel. NOTE: Make certain that the booster push rod is positioned on the correct side of the master cylinder to install onto the push pin prior to tightening the booster assembly to the dash.
  9. From inside the cab, install the booster mounting bracket-to-dash panel retaining nuts.
  10. Position the master cylinder on the booster assembly, install the retaining nuts, and remove the prop from underneath the master cylinder.
  11. Install the booster check valve. Connect the manifold vacuum hose to the booster check valve and secure with the clamp.
  12. From inside the cab on vehicles equipped with push rod mounted stop lamp switch, install the bushing and position the switch on the end of the push rod. Then install the switch and rod on the pedal arm, along with spacers on each side, and secure with the retaining pin.
  13. Connect the stop lamp switch wiring.
  14. Start the engine and check brake operation.
Fig. 1: Check the booster pushrod adjustment using a gauge with the shown dimensions

tecnovative_78.gif
Fig. 2: Exploded view of the typical power brake booster tecnovative_79.gif Fig. 3: Booster vacuum hose connections - 2.3L & 2.9L

tecnovative_80.gif
Fig. 4: Booster vacuum hose connections for the 4.0L

tecnovative_81.gif

Feb 03, 2011 | 1988 Ford Ranger

1 Answer

When I put on the brakes there is a shush sound and it is really hard to stop the car, this morning when I started the car I shifted into gear and put on the brakes to pull out of the parking and it died...


It sounds like you have a problem with the brake booster. It uses vacuum created by the engine in the inlet manifold to assist you with brake pressure. Have a look at the brake booster. A large round canister that sits on the firewall behind the master cylinder(where you add brake fluid) There is a hose leading from it to the inlet manifold. Inspect this hose for leaks/cracks. If this does not solve the problem remove the hose from the inlet manifold. Plug the hole with your thumb and have someone start the vehicle. If it starts, put the hose back remove the other end from the booster, plug with the thumb and start again. If it fires up again you will need to replace the booster. This will unfortunately produce more cussing. Both when you purchase the booster and when you remove it.

Aug 30, 2010 | Buick Skylark Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Truck stop running after running for a while. Stop let truck rest a little start right back up and runs for a little while then repeat the same process over and over with in dash screen says service brake...


In relation to the brake booster, try looking at the vacuum hose that runs from the inlet manifold to the brake booster. It could have become hard and brittle and split causing a bad air/vacuum leak.
Sometimes in older vehicles the rubber diaphragm inside the brake booster can perish and split allowing excessive air through the booster into the inlet manifold

Aug 19, 2010 | GMC Yukon XL Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

1994 Honda Accord shuts off when brakes applied


Isolate the brake booster by pinching the vacuum line connected to the booster and try braking. If this works your brake booster is bad.

May 11, 2009 | 1994 Honda Civic

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