Question about 1995 Honda Accord

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I turn the key and only here a click. I work the clutch pedal in and out until the starter engages. Is there a relay on the clutch pedal that would cause it now to cycle

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Yes, the clutch pedal has a relay switch that tells the starter that it's in neutral. The switch could be bad (if it worked recently you prob don't need to adjust it). You can also check the fuse, those are the easiest solutions. My first guess would be to go to the fuse and check, then check the connection to the clutch switch and make sure you haven't come disconnected, have a buildup on the connection, and don't have any worn (bare) wires touching a body part that's metal (bad ground or ground-out).

Posted on Dec 12, 2009

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2003 HyundaI Tiburon GT Diag No-Start


You could check for power on the small orange wire at the starter solenoid on the starter motor-with the key held in start position. Should have power there in start. If you do, take starter off to be tested. If no power, signal is lost between ignition switch and the solenoid. Next find the starter relay under the hood. Hold your finger lightly on it while someone turns the key to start. If you feel a click or movement, check orange wire from there to starter solenoid. If nothing at the relay, move to the starter clutch pedal position switch- a simple on/off switch-check for power to the switch with key held in start. With clutch pedal pressed, it should pass power on to the starter relay, with key in start. If you have no power at the clutch switch in start, between there and the ignition switch is the Burglar Alarm Relay and the BCM box. The start wire out of the ignition switch goes to the alarm relay, and another wire from relay goes to BCM (body control module) to activate the relay so power will pass from ignition switch to clutch switch. That's all, Nathan, pretty simple but then again, not...better invest in a test light or digital volt ohm meter (DVOM). Good for checking electrical circuits, hope its not the alarm or BCM.

Apr 29, 2014 | 2003 Hyundai Tiburon

1 Answer

I was driving on the road when the starter engaged and burn out, I replaced the starter motor, starter relay, and ignition switch. turned the key and starter stays on. had to disconnect battery to stop it....


Hello, There are small wires that attach to the Starter Relay. These are the wires Mechanics call "tickler" wires. There should not be power going through the tickler wire unless the Ignition switch is turned to the START position.

Disconnect the small wire off of the Starter Relay. Leave it off and put your battery cable on the Battery. The Starter should not crank. The Ignition should be OFF.

Now we need to find out where the tickler wire is getting power from. Put a Multimeter or test light on the Tickler wire for POS and ground the other wire on the tester to a NEG ground. I suspect your problem is in the Interlock switch. The Interlock switch would be on the Clutch pedal lever under the dash for a standard shift.

If you had an Automatic transmission, the Interlock would be in the shift linkage or Brake pedal lever. Without changing from an Auto to a Standard trans people have trouble hitting the under dash Interlock switch with their shoes getting in and out of their cars. Even while driving you can hit the under-dash switches with your shoes.

So check under the dash for a broken or dislocated switch on the Clutch or Brake pedal levers. Then move the switches until the Test equipment shows the power is not going to the Tickler
wire . Once you do this you have to make the START position work on the Ignition switch. Leave the tickler hooked up to the test equipment until you get the wiring right. You may have to adjust the Ignition shift-rod in the steering column so that START means the correct thing only in the start position.

I hope my solution is very helpful in giving you ideas about fixing your car.

Mar 17, 2011 | 1990 Ford Mustang

2 Answers

I drove my 1999 accord EX to work & 8 hrs. later I tried to start it and it did nothing. Tried jumping still nothing. Put new battery on and it still did nothing.What is the problem?


Hi, diagnosing a no-start condition requires a logical approach to figuring out what might be preventing your car from starting. First, if the engine won't even crank over when you turn the ignition to START, your car obviously won't start.
When you turn the ignition key to start your car, voltage from the battery flows through the ignition switch to the Park/Neutral safety switch and/or brake pedal or clutch pedal safety switch (you have to push the pedal down before the circuit will complete) to the starter relay or solenoid. When the relay or solenoid is energized by voltage from the ignition switch circuit, it closes a contact that routes more power from the battery directly to the starter to crank the engine. The starter motor spins, pushes the starter drive gear to engage the flywheel and cranks the engine.

If the engine fails to crank, there is a fault in one of the components in the battery/ignition/starter circuit.

Ten Reasons why you car won't start..
  1. Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger).
  2. Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables).
  3. Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections).
  4. Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay).
  5. Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store).
  6. Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary).
  7. Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).
  8. Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start.
  9. Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up).
  10. Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).

Hope it helps identify and solve the problem

Jan 16, 2011 | 1999 Honda Accord

1 Answer

I have a 2003 Saturan Ion that won't start


Hi, this is what you should do when your car won't start. Diagnosing a no-start condition requires a logical approach to figuring out what might be preventing your car from starting. First, if the engine won't even crank over when you turn the ignition to START, your car obviously won't start.
When you turn the ignition key to start your car, voltage from the battery flows through the ignition switch to the Park/Neutral safety switch and/or brake pedal or clutch pedal safety switch (you have to push the pedal down before the circuit will complete) to the starter relay or solenoid. When the relay or solenoid is energized by voltage from the ignition switch circuit, it closes a contact that routes more power from the battery directly to the starter to crank the engine. The starter motor spins, pushes the starter drive gear to engage the flywheel and cranks the engine.

If the engine fails to crank, there is a fault in one of the components in the battery/ignition/starter circuit. Check it out.....
  • Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger).
  • Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables).
  • Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections).
  • Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay).
  • Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store).
  • Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary).
  • Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).
  • Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start.
  • Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up).
  • Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).

Dec 02, 2010 | 2003 Saturn ION

1 Answer

I have a 1997 grand prix. Most days it starts. once in a while it will not start. You can sometimes rock key back and forth quickly and it will catch. But most of the time odly enough wait over night and...


When you turn the ignition key to start your car, voltage from the battery flows through the ignition switch to the Park/Neutral safety switch and/or brake pedal or clutch pedal safety switch (you have to push the pedal down before the circuit will complete) to the starter relay or solenoid. When the relay or solenoid is energized by voltage from the ignition switch circuit, it closes a contact that routes more power from the battery directly to the starter to crank the engine. The starter motor spins, pushes the starter drive gear to engage the flywheel and cranks the engine.

Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger).
Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables).
Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections).
Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay).
Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store).
Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary).
Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).
Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start.
Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up).
Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).

Jul 14, 2010 | 1997 Pontiac Grand Prix

1 Answer

My car does not start or turn over. The radio works and so does the fan.


When you turn the ignition key to start your car, voltage from the battery flows through the ignition switch to the Park/Neutral safety switch and/or brake pedal or clutch pedal safety switch (you have to push the pedal down before the circuit will complete) to the starter relay or solenoid. When the relay or solenoid is energized by voltage from the ignition switch circuit, it closes a contact that routes more power from the battery directly to the starter to crank the engine. The starter motor spins, pushes the starter drive gear to engage the flywheel and cranks the engine.

Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger).
Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables).
Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections).
Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay).
Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store).
Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary).
Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).
Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start.
Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up).
Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).

Jul 14, 2010 | 1995 Suzuki Sidekick

2 Answers

Engine will not turn over. lights, horn, everything else works, no clicks, no nothing, but it will not turn over.


You're describing a no rotation issue and not a no start issue correct? If you dont hear/feel the starter relay clicking, it eliminates everything in the circuit to that point meaning the ignition switch, Transmission Range Sensor (TRS) (you don't have a neutral start switch unless you have a rare manual transmission), ground input from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) to the starter relay coil, and starter relay are good. Based on what you've said that leaves the primary battery cable from the battery to the starter, and the wire from the starter relay to the starter solenoid contact on the starter. Have you checked their continuity? One more voltage to check at contact 30 (input volts from battery to starter relay contacts) on the starter relay socket. Should see 12vdc all the time.

You should check the battery. The true test is a load test. Does jumping the battery using jumper cables make any difference? If it starts, change the battery. I take it to check the starter you jumpered the solenoid contact on the starter to the battery correct? Have you tried wiggling the battery cables as you turn the key? They can corrode and fail internally. Are the engine and chassy ground connections clean and tight?

Jul 14, 2010 | 2004 Dodge Caravan

1 Answer

I got a 89 bronco II and it wont start. Its got a new battery. I jumped out the starter relay and the starter engaged. So thats good. Also the relay clicks when you turn the key. Also checked the...


Im not sure what you mean by I jumped out the starter relay and the starter engaged.
so i am going to assume that you jumped from the battery side to the starter side on the relay and that engaged the starter... which is fine but you say the relay clicks when u turn the key. Pull off the clip on wire from the relay and push it against the battery side connection on the relay (u may need a small screwdriver to assist the connection) the relay should cause the starter to engage. If it just clicks (my bet) then you need to replace the relay (its really called a solenoid )

Feb 14, 2010 | 1989 Ford Bronco II

2 Answers

Clutch cranks my car


I suspect the starter solenoid,mounted on the starter was 'stuck' on the engaged position.operation in the condition you describe has caused it's failure.starter needs to be replaced.

Oct 10, 2009 | 1995 Ford Escort

1 Answer

Engine won't turn over, no click, no nothing


ck your clutch pedal switch if it is open circuit it won't let the starter engage you can unplug it and jump the the two wires if this doesn't engage the starter you have a bad starter relay and it is located in the fuse box under the hood

May 30, 2009 | 2005 Dodge Dakota

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