Question about 2001 Ford Expedition

1 Answer

I've checked the 2 solutions that I received and found that the area in the center of the rotor, where the little pin is, allows the rotor to move in and out. When the tire is on, I can push it and pull is and it moves in and out less than an inch both ways. Please help. Here are the two solutions I received from slosmogman and teemossinmia make sure the tires on on tight, its been known to happen that tires fall off after service. Make sure the mechanic didnt leave a rag under the hood and it got caught in the belts or pulleys. Also look in the fan shroud. Its been known that animals will look for a warm place when cold. Terrible thought but as a mechanic I had to deal with this once. and So sorry to hear that...But just not too sure, but check your front brake calipers...Some shops, when they take off the tires they do a brake inspection, and someone probaly pushed a brake caliper piston back, or either took off the caliper too check the brakes, and didnt tighten up the bolt all the way when they put it back on...So if the caliper is not on all the way, and you apply the brakes, they will go down, and you will here a knocking sound, because the caliper is hitting the inside of the rim...Well i hope this helps...and hopefully you wont be out of no extra money...besides christmas....Goodluck...

Posted by on

  • nasnage Dec 12, 2009

    Thanks, here's what's going on. My truck is making a knocking sound from the driver's side front wheel. I took the wheel off to see if any of the previous solutions worked and I found that my entire rotor moves back and forth about 1/2 inch either way (pushing or pulling). Since my brakes seemingly go when driving, I bled the brakes to no avail. The whole "group" rotor, caliper and pads move and I'm not referring to a circular motion like normal. When I put the tire back on the entire wheel moves in and out about 1/2 inch as if it's gonna fall off. I have no idea what the problem is. I guess it could be some joint or bearings but who knows....hopefully YOU...LOL! I hoe this description helps and if not I will try to be even more descriptive.

    Thanks, Leigh

  • davesm672
    davesm672 May 11, 2010

    Can you tell me what is going on with your vehicle so I can help



1 Answer

  • Level 2:

    An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points


    An expert that gotĀ 5 achievements.


    An expert whose answer gotĀ voted for 20 times.


    An expert who has answered 20 questions.

  • Expert
  • 74 Answers

Sounds like the upper or lower ball joint on the steering knuckle or possibly the wheel bearing -- jack the suspension up on that side -- place the jack under the control arm so you load the suspension .. have someone move the wheel in and out and up and down -- if there is play in the in the ball joints it will be noticable. If the ball joints are not moving then most likely is your wheel bearings -- (hint brake fade on first application indicates wheel bearings).. when driving with loose wheel bearings the brake rotor will walk back and forth moving the pads further and further away from the rotor, which in turn will cause the brake pedal to go almost to the floor on first application. If the brake pump up when you are stationary and hold good -- wheel bearing will be the problem..

Posted on Dec 12, 2009


1 Suggested Answer

  • 2 Answers


Hi there,
Save hours of searching online or wasting money on unnecessary repairs by talking to a 6YA Expert who can help you resolve this issue over the phone in a minute or two.

Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.

Here's a link to this great service

Good luck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017


Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%


Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add



Related Questions:

1 Answer

My 02 stratus keeps chewing up rear brake pads n rotors on one side only what would cause this

check that the calipers are free to move on the mounting pins to allow for self alignment. These are the two big pins at the ends of the caliper. It happens when the caliper is not allowed to move (seized ) on the pins

Apr 06, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer


for passenger side:
1. unclip screw cover 'center flap' of inside door opener plastic cover, flap is 3/8"x 3/8" (center of plastic cover)
2. remove phillips screw now showing
3. push fabric panel (edge of door opener plastic cover-at hinged end of chrome handle) to allow uncliping of edge of plastic cover (top rt & lwr rt (for passenger side) of plastic cover)
4. open chrome inside door handle to allow plastic cover to be removed-slide plastic cover toward rear, free end of door to remove cover
5. remove switch panel-gently pry with wide non maring pry bar (cover wide blade screwdriver using cloth) do rear of sw panel 1st (don't pry front edge)
6. slide switch panel toward rear to allow removal
7. remove large phillips screw under sw panel
8. remove the 2 plastic covers near top, hinge edge -use plastic spoon handles to encourage caps to pop off. May also require small screwdriver approx 1/8" in to complete pop off
9. remove the 2 phillips screws w/ captive washers
10. remove 3 phillips/hex screws along the bottom inside of door panel
11. on outside/rear edge of panel push the 2 center pins of each in about 1/8"-this allows the clip to be pulled out w/ pin pushed in
12. remove plastic cover (REAR OF SIDE MIRROR)-pull window edge up and back.
13. lift rear of door panel (not hinge edge) up allow hinge edge to pivot around lower pin in door (hinge edge)
14. remove the 2 rt edge "L" brackets (gently pry center plastic pin out) (note the color and replace as removed)
15. slowly peel the clear plastc away from the non hinged end to expose the plastic panel with 3 phillips head screws
16. remove the 3 screws and panel for access to door handle.
17. using access area now available unlatch the rod attached to exterior door handle (unclip plastic to rotate clip up to allow rod to slide out-toward hinged edge)
18. using access area now available remove rod from ext door handle from inside door area
19. remove the 3 -10mm head bolts
20. remove the ext door handle (bottom edge out first)
reverse order to replace door handle

Mar 24, 2014 | 2003 Toyota Avalon

2 Answers

Tapered front disc brake pad wear

the brake calliper body that the pads are contained in slides on 2 pins to allow the equalization of pressure to either side of the disc
these pins rust up and prevent the equalization process
on most vehicles it results on the non moving pad wearing faster than the piston pad as the piston pad pulls the calliper body across but it is not free to move back
I suspect that in your case one pin is sticking and allowing the calliper body to twist slightly resulting in that wear pattern
as to the discoloration of the disc, that indicates a pad in constant contact with the disc and over heating the disc
when fitting new pads it is a requirement to do both wheels and to machine the discs to ensure true running of the disc
check that the callipers move freely on the mounting pins before reassembly

Apr 03, 2017 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to wire a coil on a 1989 chevy 2500 with a 5.7 vortec engine?

No. 1 cylinder. Reinstall the spark plug and wire.3 Install the distributor, making sure the gasket is in place, and with the rotor facing the No. 1 cylinder. With the curvature of the gear on the distributor and camshaft, the rotor will turn about 30 degrees when meshed. Place the distributor shaft in the hole, but hold the distributor high enough so that it does not contact the gear. Point the rotor toward the No. 1 cylinder, then rotate it counterclockwise about 30 degrees and insert the distributor. If the rotor does not point in the right direction yet, lift the distributor and turn the rotor a little farther and insert it again until it points to the No. 1. If the rotor keeps lining up wrong, remove the distributor all the way, and insert the long screwdriver in the hole. Turn the oil pump drive a little, then try the distributor again.4 Install the distributor hold-down clamp and bolt. Loosely tighten the bolt so the distributor can still be turned.5 Rotate the distributor so that the vacuum advance, if there is one, is an equal distance from the firewall and the carburetor. Lay the distributor cap on, and pay attention to a spark plug wire terminal location in relation to the rotor. Once you've found a spark plug terminal that is very close to the rotor end, make a mark on the distributor housing directly below the center of the terminal location. Remove the cap, and rotate the distributor housing so the mark just made is exactly under the rotor end. Move the distributor housing counterclockwise another 5 degrees, and tighten the distributor hold-down bolt with a wrench.6 Install the distributor cap, paying attention to which terminal the mark is under and which terminal is closest to the rotor end. Use a screwdriver to tighten the hold-down screws on the cap.7Install the No. 1 spark plug wire in the terminal in front of the rotor end. Install the remainder of the wires in a clockwise direction using the firing order 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2.

  • Sep 29, 2011 | Cars & Trucks

    1 Answer

    I have spark at the cap but not to the sparks, already change rotr

    Ok, heres how the spark works, coil, to cap,, along the rotor to the connection pins of the cap, to the spark plug wires,, and onto the plugs, inside the cap, make sure that the little center piece is hitting the center or the rotor, which goes out to the tip of the rotor,, that sends spark to the pins inside the cap,, now if your cap has any corrosion or tiny cracks,, that spark will go all over the place and not travel down its intended path, so clean off those contact pins in the cap, or replace it, if you have no spark to any of the plugs,, change the cap,, if its just to one or 2 , check the plug wires and the plugs themselves

    Sep 28, 2011 | 1990 Ford Mustang

    1 Answer

    Vehicle starts to viberate around 45 mph. This seems to come and go.also passenger side wheel gets hotter than drivers side. vehicle has over 160000 miles on it.

    Three things you should look at there... Check the slide pin inserts in the caliper and make sure they aren't seized to the bolts or the caliper itself, Make sure the piston in the caliper moves freely and last, check the brake hose going to the caliper...they can collapse internally and hold the caliper in the closed position.
    Generally aside from the brake feeling hotter, you will note that the rotor may have turned a bluish color. After you've found why it's binding, don';t be surprised if the pedal pulsates. If it does, replace the rotor. If the brake pads appear burned, change them as well.

    May 10, 2011 | Jeep Grand Cherokee Cars & Trucks

    1 Answer

    Back brakes nut for holding rotors, size?

    I'm assuming you want to remove the rear rotors. No rear brake rotor nut for holding the rotor on that I know off. I just had my rear rotors off and turned on my 94 Concorde LX.
    After removing the tire I diligenty removed the star washers (2) from the lug studs. Then a little spray of PB Blaster around the center hub. Next I removed the 2 10mm bolts holding the caliper to the rotor. A slight nudge with a rubber mallet and the caliper is free, but do support it, don't let it dangle. Another slight nudge on the rotor with a rubber mallet and the rotor literally fell off the car.
    There is a rear axle nut and bearing inside of the center hub that is secured by a large 34mm hex nut, on the outside of that a lock ring that looks like a large black bottle cap with a cotter pin going through it for retention. That has nothing to do with removing the rotors. With a little patience, lubricant and gentle tapping, the rotors slide off the center hub. Hope this helps.

    Sep 02, 2010 | 1994 Chrysler Concorde

    1 Answer

    Obd II locations on 1995 saab 9000 cs

    In 1995 they made different systems. If it has OBD, then it should be the conventional 16 pin connector, found underneath the drivers steering wheel area. If its the older type, then it has a 2 pin black connector under the center console area. Hope that helps

    Feb 01, 2010 | 1995 Saab 9000

    2 Answers

    How do you replace front bearing assembly on 2000 f-150

    After you get the wheel off; remove brake not allow them to hang down - you'll damage the brake lines!

    Remove the grease cover at the center of the rotor with a flat blade screw driver. Remove the castle pin and nut, then the rotor should slide off the spindle with very little effort.

    To remove the bearing raceways...clean the grease out of the center of the you can see what you're doing. Place rotor on a solid bench/cement pad, so you can get a flat chissel/large screw driver to the inside of the rotor...pound the raceway out, working around the rotor in a circle - the raceway needs to come out evenly to avoid damage to the rotor. If you can't get the raceways out - take the rotor to a machine shop that can do it for you (sometimes the auto parts store will help...if there're not busy).


    The best thing to do is get pre-packed bearings, new castle pins and a tub of axle grease.

    Remember, put about 1/2 cup/palm full of grease into the center of rotor prior to re-assembly. Also, don't over tighten the wheel...put the castle nut on and finger tighten. slightly tighten with a wrench...ensure the rotor turns freely - must be snug and slight resistance should be noticed. Don't forget the new castle pin.

    Hope this helps,

    Nov 20, 2009 | 2000 Ford F150 Flareside SuperCab

    2 Answers

    How do you change rear axle seal in a chevy pickup

    To change the rear seal, yo will need to raise and support the rear of the vehicle. Remove the wheels and drums or rotors (depending on drum or disc brakes.) Remove the rear differential cover bolts and the cover (have a drain pan under the differential) You will likely need to turn the driveshaft so the center pin bolt is acessible at the back or the differential. This is a 5/16" (or 8mm) bolt that is on the right (passenger) side of the differential carrier assembly. I recommend a new bolt be installed here on reassembly. Once the retaining bolt is out, slide the center pin out enough to allow the axle shafts to be pushed in toward the center of the diff. to remove the "C" clips that retain the axle shafts in the carrier assembly. Be careful if you happen to pull the center pin all the way out not to allow the carrier assembly (has the ring gear mounted on it) to turn, as this can rotate the spider gears out of alignment causing a headache on reassembly. With the "C" clip removed the axle shaft can be pulled out of the diff. Inspect the bearing area of the shaft for rust, pitting, or scoring. Remove the old seal and carefully install the new one. Reverse proceedures to install. Take care to note the "C" clips and center pin bolt are properly reinstalled. Fill with 2.5 to 3 quarts of rear axle grease for you vehicle.
    good luck.

    Oct 25, 2009 | 2000 Chevrolet Silverado

    Not finding what you are looking for?
    2001 Ford Expedition Logo

    143 people viewed this question

    Ask a Question

    Usually answered in minutes!

    Top Ford Experts


    Level 3 Expert

    84540 Answers

    Colin Stickland
    Colin Stickland

    Level 3 Expert

    22484 Answers

    gerry bissi

    Level 3 Expert

    4387 Answers

    Are you a Ford Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

    Answer questions

    Manuals & User Guides