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Kenmore Cold spot refrigerator model 106 70182001 leaking inside in the back of the refrigerator. Having to keep bowls in the back of the top shelf. How can I fix this?

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Your defrost drain in the frezer is cloged. Every day when your refrig sellf defrosts the water should drain into a hole that leads to a tube wich drains the water to a pan under the refrig. You need to turn offrefrig and remove frezer floor and rear wall and clean out hole and tube with hot water.

Posted on Dec 12, 2009

Testimonial: "Thank you very much for the info & for telling me to turn off the frig. I probably would not have done that. "

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Is the leakage in the freezer compartment, or refrigerator compartment?

Confirm that the leakage is not from the ice maker (broken or cracked ice mold, broken or cracked water hose.).

If leakage is in the refrigerator compartment, and it is from the divider between the upper freezer and lower refrigerator, then you may have a clogged evaporator drain hose.

I am having trouble locating it on the exploded view, but it attaches to a tray under the evaporator on the back wall of the freezer, and runsd to the bottom of the refrigerator where it releases water into the drain pan under the refrigerator to evaporate.

Posted on Dec 12, 2009

Testimonial: "The leakage is from the refrigerator. So I will check and see if the hose to the evaporator pan is clogged. I appreciate your help!!!"

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2 Answers

Why is my air conditioning not cold


Either too much or too little refrigerant. Thermostat shuts unit down prematurely?

Aug 21, 2017 | Cars & Trucks

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I used a small can of r 134a in my 2007 Ford 500 still not getting cold. What next?


Some things to check:

1. Is the compressor running?

2. Is the suction (where you added the refrigerant) line cold or
at least cool to the touch?

3. Is the system set to cooling inside the vehicle?

If you had to add refrigerant, there could be a leak somewhere. One small can of refrigerant is not enough if the system is empty. It will take around 5-6 one pound cans. However, the system should should be leak tested otherwise the newly added refrigerant will leak out.

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My ac is blowing cold air but not at full strength. i tried to turn it up higher, but my contol buttons are not working. i am unable to turn the ac up higher, turn it off using the control knowbs and...


Chances are you are low on refrigerant, my suggestion is take it to a shop for proper diagnostic but you could buy an off the shelf refrigerant (many brands available depending where you are, walmart will have something, will be a little white can with a hose and instructions.) and top it off your self to get the coldness back. If that doesnt fix it and you do go to a shop make sure to tell them what kind of product you used/ keep the can and show them.

Dec 20, 2017 | 2006 Kia Sedona

1 Answer

Water keeps running out


You need to check where the water is going, Look for external leaks, check the hoses for wet spots and look at the pulley end of the motor to see if there is water coming from the back of the waterpump.
If you can't find any external leaks the bad news is that it's an internal leak which will mean that your head gasket is leaking and will need to be repaired.

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2003 hyundai sante fe leaking refrigerant. Where do I start


Get a leak detection kit from your local auto parts store. It's basically regular refrigerant with a dye added to aid in leak detection. When adding the leak detector, turn the truck on and the AC on HIGH. Add the leak detector and look for purple spots along the AC lines and compressor. Once found, you can make the repair but will have to completely evacuate the system prior to recharging with refrigerant. If no leak can be found, add refrigerant a 1lb can at a time until you get cold air from the vents.

May 20, 2011 | 2003 Hyundai Santa Fe

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Air con has been topped up to pressure blows hot ok but is not cooling on cold only a slight improvement after topping up


Is compressor clicking on and off?
If its not here is alist of items to check out:
-pressure switches
-compressor
-on/off switch
-a/c relay,
-cooling fan relay
-cooling fan
-control head
Remember there is no such thing as just topping off. The refrigerant doesn't evaporate. It is in an enclosed system air tight always under some pressure whether on or off.
So if someone told you that you were low on refrigerant what they should have explained this to you. Basically you may have a leak.
If you have a set of R134A manifold gauges put them on and ckeck for refrigerant being present in the system. If your below 50 psi on high side you probably have a leak. Checking for leaks on a 2003 is not so bad .First try looking for oil spots on the refrigerant line . If that doesn't work then bring the vehicle to a repair shop. they have the proper equiptment to do this. If you do find the leak via oil spots you have to recover the refrigerant thats in the system with a recovery machine first. Then replace the o-ring at the connection that was leaking or remove/ replace the item that was leaking.
Your gonna need a vacuum pump or recovery machine for the next part. Pull a vacuum on the entire system for 20 minutes then shut off the system and check for leaks. If manifold gauge on recovery machine doesn't move within five minutes you can recharge the system. Good luck

Jun 18, 2010 | 2003 Kia Sedona

2 Answers

2002 chrysler sebring 2.4l leaking water is it water pump


Yes you are correct the water pump is driven by the timing belt so if it leaks it will run down the back side of the engine from behind the timing belt cover :)

Jan 31, 2010 | Chrysler Sebring Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Having to put approx 2 gallons of Antifreeze in


Get a tin of a good quality Radiator Sealant or a couple of packets of Ce-lit and apply them to the problem

Once you have stopped the leak go back to the stadard mix of Anti Freeze to Water

Jan 05, 2010 | 2000 Ford Expedition

1 Answer

I POSTED A PROBLEM....NOT KNOWING THE MODEL/SIZE OF MY KENMORE FREEZER. TEMP ALERT??? TOO WARM/TOO COLD DON'T KNOW ALARM COMES ON ETC WHERE IS THE MODEL NUMBER DISPLAYED. NOT ON BACK OR KICK PLATE...


on upper left side wall about 4" in when you open the refrigerator door,if its not there it most likely is worn off or fell off, very un-commen though

Dec 08, 2009 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Air condition/heater


sounds like the air-conditioning expansion valve is probably not working correctly here is a way you can fix your air conditioning:

  1. Realize that auto AC is basically a refrigerator in a weird layout. It's designed to move heat from one place (the inside of your car) to some other place (the outdoors). While a complete discussion of every specific model and component is well outside the scope of this article, this should give you a start on figuring out what the problem might be and either fixing it yourself or talking intelligently to someone you can pay to fix it.
  1. Become familiar with the major components to auto air conditioning:

  2. the compressor, which compresses and circulates the refrigerant in the system
  • the refrigerant, (on modern cars, usually a substance called R-134a older cars have r-12 freon which is becoming increasingly more expensive and hard to find, and also requires a license to handle) which carries the heat
  • the condenser, which changes the phase of the refrigerant and expels heat removed from the car
  • the expansion valve (or orifice tube in some vehicles), which is somewhat of a nozzle and functions to similtaneously drop the pressure of the refrigerant liquid, meter its flow, and atomize it
  • the evaporator, which transfers heat to the refrigerant from the air blown across it, cooling your car
  • the receiver/dryer, which functions as a filter for the refrigerant/oil, removing moisture and other contaminants
  1. Understand the air conditioning process: The compressor puts the refrigerant under pressure and sends it to the condensing coils. In your car, these coils are generally in front of the radiator. Compressing a gas makes it quite hot. In the condenser, this added heat and the heat the refrigerant picked up in the evaporator is expelled to the air flowing across it from outside the car. When the refrigerant is cooled to its saturation temperature, it will change phase from a gas back into a liquid (this gives off a bundle of heat known as the "latent heat of vaporization"). The liquid then passes through the expansion valve to the evaporator, the coils inside of your car, where it loses pressure that was added to it in the compressor. This causes some of the liquid to change to a low-pressure gas as it cools the remaining liquid. This two-phase mixture enters the evaporator, and the liquid portion of the refrigerant absorbs the heat from the air across the coil and evaporates. Your car's blower circulates air across the cold evaporator and into the interior. The refrigerant goes back through the cycle again and again.
  2. Check to see if all the R-134a leaks out (meaning there's nothing in the loop to carry away heat). Leaks are easy to spot but not easy to fix without pulling things apart. Most auto-supply stores carry a fluorescent dye that can be added to the system to check for leaks, and it will have instructions for use on the can. If there's a bad enough leak, the system will have no pressure in it at all. Find one of the valve-stem-looking things and CAREFULLY (eye protection recommended) poke a pen in there to try to valve off pressure, and if there IS none, that's the problem.
  3. Make sure the compressor is turning. Start the car, turn on the AC and look under the hood. The AC compressor is generally a pumplike thing off to one side with large rubber and steel hoses going to it. It will not have a filler cap on it, but will often have one or two things that look like the valve stems on a bike tire. The pulley on the front of the compressor exists as an outer pulley and an inner hub which turns when an electric clutch is engaged. If the AC is on and the blower is on, but the center of the pulley is not turning, then the compressor's clutch is not engaging. This could be a bad fuse, a wiring problem, a broken AC switch in your dash, or the system could be low on refrigerant (most systems have a low-pressure safety cutout that will disable the compressor if there isn't enough refrigerant in the system).
  4. Look for other things that can go wrong: bad switches, bad fuses, broken wires, broken fan belt (preventing the pump from turning), or seal failure inside the compressor.
  5. Feel for any cooling at all. If the system cools, but not much, it could just be low pressure, and you can top up the refrigerant. Most auto-supply stores will have a kit to refill a system, and it will come with instructions. Do not overfill! Adding more than the recommended amount of refrigerant will NOT improve performance but actually will decrease performance. In fact, the more expensive automated equipment found at nicer shops actually monitors cooling performance real-time as it adds refrigerant, and when the performance begins to decrease it removes refrigerant until the performance peaks again.

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