Question about 1998 Lincoln Continental

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My lincoln ls v-8,is running hot after i changed the thermostat, & water pump what else could it be

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  • Mark Egan May 11, 2010

    1) Make sure you put the thermostat in correctly (in the right orientation.). 2) Check that the lower radiator hose is not collapsing when the engine is running higher RPM. For a car that old, this could happen. Make sure there is a support spring inside the new hose. 3) What shape is the radiator in, in terms of corrosion?

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Build up in the coolant system a faulty Sensor reporting that the engine is hot when it is not. You can try running a coolant flush through the system to remove that possible problem. If you are basing this overheating problem on coolant being forced out the over flow, do a compression check on the cylinders. If one or more of the cylinders is running extremely high compression you may have a faulty head gasket, cracked head or cracked block.

Posted on Dec 12, 2009

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About the only thing left is the radiator. First, and cheapest, is have your radiator cap checked to ensure it is holding to the pressure spec for your car. It may just be cheaper to repalce the cap.

Check the radiator hoses for leaks or kinks.

The core may be plugged and in need of a flush...

Sometimes it's hard to tell if a radiator has enough flow. Here's a couple of quick tests. Although they're not as good as removing the radiator and flow checking it with a machine at the radiator shop, they can be done on the car and are fairly easy.
FIRST TEST
Feel the radiator fins as the engine warms up. As the thermostat opens, the entire radiator should start to get warm .WATCH OUT FOR THAT FAN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! If only part of the radiator gets warm, it may be clogged in the cold areas.


SECOND TEST
Remove the radiator cap with the engine cold. Squeeze the top radiator hose to get a "feel" of how it squeezes under zero pressure. When the thermostat opens and you can see the coolant circulate, replace the cap and IMMEDIATELY rev the engine up (3000 RPM or so) while squeezing the top radiator hose. The hose should remain fairly easy to squeeze. With a clogged radiator, you can actually feel the hose "stiffen up" and get hard to squeeze as the engine speed increases.

HOW TO FLUSH YOUR COOLING SYSTEM
The best flushes are two part: a strong acid and a neutralizer. The one part flushes aren't as strong. The strong flushes get rid of more scale and deposits, but you run the risk of 'eating through" the extremely thin and cheap radiators and heater cores they have today.
Prestone and others make a "backflush adapter" which fits in a heater hose and accepts a garden hose.
No matter how you do it, I'd replace both the top and bottom hoses, bypass and heater hoses, and possibly the thermostat.
When you remove the bottom hose almost all the coolant will drain out of the system. You really shouldn't just dump this coolant: be a little "green" and at least pour it down a drain so the wastewater treatment plant can deal with it before it gets in the groundwater!. The best is to go to your regular mechanic and let him put it in his coolant recycling tank. Mechanics are required by law to have one.
Fill the system with water. If you decide to use flush, add it at this time. Start the engine and let it warm up. It might be necessary to hold your hand over the radiator filler while squeezing the top hose: the thermostat will be closed and may keep the water from circulating. If no water touches the thermostat, it WILL NOT OPEN AND OVER HEAT YOUR VEHICLE!!! I always drill an 1/16 inch hole in the flange of a thermostat to keep it from "air locking" like that: the better thermostats already have a bypass hole for this purpose.
Once it is warm, follow the can directions regarding the flush, if you use it. If you aren't using flush, skip these next few steps.
If iut's a 2 part flush, remove the bottom hose or open the radiator drain **** if it has one. (the drain **** will usually be on the opposite side from the bottom hose inlet on the rad. After it drains, replace the bottom hose and refill the system as outlined above. After it has been refilled, remove the top hose. Get a piece of pipe that fits either over or inside the top hose: this will make this step a lot neater.
Put a hose in the radiator filler and turn it on. Run the engine. Fresh water is being added by you via the radiator, the water in the engine is being pumped out of the top hose. Run water through it until the water exiting the top hose runs clear.
Re-attach the top hose and add the neutralizer, if a 2 part flush. Drain and repeat both of the above steps to remove the neutralizer from the system. If a one part flush, as soon as the water runs clear you are ready for coolant. Drain the system as outlined above.
Reattach all hoses, put in the antifreeze first. Complete the fill with water.

Posted on Dec 12, 2009

  • glenlinc May 07, 2011

    The drill a 1/16in. hole in the thermostat is great advice. Seemingly, Ford service staff do not even know. The other procedure, not mentioned is that you need to "burp" the coolant system. That is done via the metal line adjacent to the plastic overflow...it takes a "star" socket to remove.
    It is a kind of reverse-flow system w/o a rad cap.

    Also, most "drains" take flow to nearest stream/river. Please take to local garage or at least flush down toilet.

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