Question about 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Steve is right on the money. You engine is staying cold too long. I assume you probably don't have hot heat like you use too either.
Posted on Mar 04, 2018
You need a new thermostat lol
Posted on Mar 04, 2018
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
P0700 means there is a transmission fault code in the transmission controller. Since the transmission controller doesn't have a light attached, it tells the engine controller to turn the light on using this code. You'll have to access the transmission controller to further diagnose the problem.
Posted on Jun 14, 2009
If you haven't changed the plugs or had the fuel system cleaned, now would be a good time to do it. The number 1 culprit for rough idles is dirty injectors or plugs. You can try an injector cleaner in a can (or bottle) for under $10 and see if it helps, and then work from there. If there isn't any improvement then if you are able to, check the plugs for any gunky buildup and if you find a bad plug, make sure you replace them all (or have them replaced) at the same time.
Posted on Aug 03, 2009
That's a generic O2 sensor circuit overvoltage warning. Did they find any additional codes? Also, did they clear the code for you? Your car is an OBD2-emissions car, meaning you'll have an O2 sensor before and after each catalytic converter. Is your engine the V8 or the inline 6? If it's the V8, you'll probably have four (although it could be two or three) O2 sensors. If it's the inline 6, you likely only have two. I'm asking about additional codes because that one doesn't help narrow down which sensor is bad. Have you noticed your gas mileage dropping at all? Or a buildup of black carbon soot in the tailpipes? Maybe less power than usual? If so, it's probably a primary (pre-cat) O2 sensor. Those are the ones that determine how much fuel the engine will be fed. If you don't have any discernable difference at all, it's probably a secondary sensor (post-cat). The issue I have is, either of those should throw at least one additional code (either to indicate which sensor is going bad, or in the case of a secondary sensor, you'll usually see a "catalytic converter below threshold" or similar code, since the secondary sensors are used by the computer to see how well the cats are working).
Any additional codes in there, or symptoms you can describe?
Posted on Nov 11, 2009
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First, if the noise is from the upper part of the engine and is more of a tapping than a knock, likely you have a problem in the valvetrain, most often a bad lifter or worn rocker arm. If the noise is low, deep inside, the noise is from a bearing. This is generally accompanied by lower than normal oil pressure. Regardless of the underlying cause, correcting the cause will not stop the knock. To do that correctly, the engine needs to be removed and all crankshaft bearings and the crankshaft itself need to be replaced (crank can sometimes be "undercut" and thicker bearing shells can be used depending upon the amount of wear.) If caught very early, sometimes only one bearing can be replaced in-car, but in 99% of all cases I have ever seen, most will fail again, sometimes more severely if done this way.
Posted on Dec 10, 2009
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