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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Replacing dash lights
You may be able to reach the bulbs from the back of the instrument panel, you will need to remove any lower panels that block access, if they can't be removed from the back then you will have to R&R the instrument cluster assy and any other unit that has defective bulbs, make sure you get the correct repacement bulbs, they may look the same but have diffwerent luminosity ratings, wrong bulb will be to dim or to bright and hot burning, this can damage the bulb socket, check your owners manual for more info.
Posted on Aug 04, 2008
Does the caliper move around if you try to lever it away from the disc? Are all the bolts definitely removed? Often it is just that the pads needs to be pushed back a bit so they will clear the lip on the disc. Try putting a screwdriver on lever bar between the inner pad and the disc and pushing the brake piston back a bit, that may free it up to clear the lip. Check that the caliper slides move freely when you get the caliper off, if not remove and clean / regrease them.
Posted on Nov 01, 2008
Transmission shift indicator light on center console.
First make sure the fuse is good.
If the fuse is good then remove the screws holding the center console cover. You will need a long and short phillip screwdriver. Look for screws in the cup holder, under the handbrake handle and where the console runs under the dash. You may have to move seats forward/backward to reach the screws. When you attempt to raise the console cover you will notice you overlook a screws. Remove them also. You may be able to reach the bulb without removing the gear shift handle. DO NOT TOUCH any other electronics you see. The AIRBAG ACTUATOR is located here also. Replace bulb. Test before reassembly. Good Saturday morning project.
Posted on Mar 13, 2009
SOURCE: clutch slave cylinder
Yes, it is located on the passenger's side of the car at the front lower side of the transmission.
You will need the following tools: 12mm and 14mm socket. The slave cylinder could be bolted to the bell housing using either size bolt head.
A 14mm and 17mm open end wrench. The hose to the slave cylinder could be found with either size.
a 10mm combination wrench for the bleeder screw. A small set of vice grip pliers.
Removal and installation instructions for the slave cylinder:
1.Take the small set of vice grip pliers and adjust them to where they just barely close down on the slave cylinder hose. Just enough to pinch off the flow of fluid but not damage the hose.
2. Using the 14mm or 17mm open ended wrench, break the hose loose from the slave cylinder, turning it in a counter clockwise direction. Make sure you have the wrench squarely on the fitting to avoid rounding it off.
3. using either the 12 or 14mm socket, remove the two bolts which hold the slave cylinder to the bell housing.
4. At this point with the slave cylinder lose, have the replacement part near by, make sure you have the copper crush ring with it.
5. Holding the hose, rotate the slave cylinder counter clockwise, spinning it off the hose.
The replacement part should have a small metal rod and rubber cover which retains it to the slave cylinder. Make sure to remove the old copper crush ring and put the new one on the end of the hose. If the part did not come with one, reuse the old one. Spin the new part on the hose and place it back on the bell housing, making sure that the rod fits into the steel linkage which projects out from inside the transmission. There is a shallow hole which the rod should fit in. Holding the part in place, don't try to tighten the hose yet, screw both bolts in by hand and tighten them. Make sure you have them both in before you go tightening anything.
6. Tighten the hose, a good snug pull is all that is needed. you don't have to crank down on the line.
Now you can remove the pliers.
7. At this point you will need the assistance of another person. Have them sit in the car, you top off the clutch master cylinder (the one which has just one resevoir) with DOT 3 brake fluid. See if you can find a small container to catch the fluid in, or just use an oil drain pan. With you stationed under the car with the 10mm wrench on the bleeder screw ready to open it up in a counter clockwise direction, have your friend ready to pump the clutch pedal.
HAVE THEM PUMP THE PEDAL AND TELL THEM TO "HOLD IT" They should keep the pedal on the floor while you open the bleeder screw up.
Some fluid and air may or may not come out the first time you open the bleeder. Close it and tell them to pump the pedal again. They need to pump the pedal at least 5 times and them tell them to "Hold It" again, holding it to the floor. Don't open the bleeder until they have the pedal to the floor.
Open the bleeder and then close it. Repeat the procedure until you see just fluid and no air coming out.. After the first three times you bleed it, check the clutch master fluid level again. Avoid running the reservoir empty other wise you will be bleeding the cluch for quite a while.
Brake fluid will attack paint so if you spill any on the paint, pour water on it and it will neutralize it. DO NOT GET WATER IN YOUR BRAKE FLUID!!!!
If everything goes well, by the fourth or fifth time you have had them pumped the pedal, you will notice the slave cylinder is pushing the release arm and the person in the car should be feeling a normal clutch pedal along with the "pedal free play" being roughly 1/2 " from the top.
I hope I not only answered your question, but have supplied you all the necessary information should you be up to the task of changing it.
Posted on Apr 23, 2009
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