Question about 1998 Ford F150 Regular Cab

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Positive it is not the engine its is a new rebuild. sounds similar to a very loud spark knock or rod knock and gets a little better as it warms up. however, under load it gets worse again the flulid levels are ok but the tailshaft bearing does have come play even though the universal joints dont

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A new rebuild would be the first suspect. Rebuilds have problems all the time. Take it to the shop that installed it. They can work with the rebuilder to resovle the problem, but first the problem has to be found. If its NOT the engine, you will have to pay. I dont know what a tail shaft has to do with a knock, its either in the engine or its not.

Posted on Dec 11, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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My acura is making loud banging noise from front when idling. sounds like a missing spark plug but all spark plugs are fine. what could it be?


Can be a lot of things.

Could be a bad rod or rod barring.

Could be a clearance issue in a rebuilt engine.

I wouldn't run it until you Take it to a shop for diagnostic.

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Geo metro threw low oil light started loosing power pulled off added oil started back up engine started to sound better felt better went to pull out of parking lot started to move forward and something in...


Would likely require a complete tear down and rebuild of the engine. A loose piston rod will cause a loud knocking noise. You said very very loud, so I think that would be the engine lower end, a rod or crankshaft or piston problem.
If that's the case, you'd be better off just replacing the engine.

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Loud knocking is a sign of internal engine damage-probably a loose piston rod from bad crankshaft bearings. It means rebuild time for the engine-major overhaul required. Cheaper to find a used engine.

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2000 pontiac grand prix gtp supercharged stalling and loud knocking nois on passenger side


You may have damaged the engine. So that being said either a bad rod bearing or other issue may be something needing to pull the engine. How is the oil pressure. A rod knock is east to hear. To faster the rpms the worse the sound. Rebuild or replace.

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Started off with a slight knock a few weeks ago,now is a loud grinding noise like a really dry bearing.its a 1998 hatch,manual.camt find where to check gearbox oil


Hello, With so little information, I would HAVE to assume that this is a rod knock. Does it make noise in neutral too? Or only when you drive it. Try to put it in neutral and step on the gas....Does it still knock? A rod knock means you need to rebuild that motor. A rod knock can usually happen from beating on the car or a timing belt slipped a couple of gears. I would check your engine oil level, not transmission. Because low levels of engine oil can create this sound too. Good luck and feel free to write me back with much more detail so that I can further assist you.

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Car sounds loud because its old......can pistons be replaced?


what do you mean sounds loud?? it it knocking really bad?? or what kind of sound is it?
but yes you can replace pistons, and connecting rods.. but i need to know a little more
about the sound, because if you need to replace pistons, your better off to get a junk yard
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Knocking in motor. Not valves


Sounds like you have a rod knock. Excessive bearing clearance happens and creates the knock. Time to rebuild the engine or get another one.

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1986 FORD 300 SIX CYLINDER ENGINE KNOCKS


Hi Bill 609!

Definitely sound like a rod insert to me. With my practiced ear, I cna tell the difference between a main bearing knock (deeper sound, more of a thudding noise), rod bearing knock (not so deep, gets louder as the engine revs, kind of a rat-tat-tat-tapping noise), and a wrist-pin knock (not quite as loud or deep and gets louder with decelerating RPM).

You can tell which cylinder the knock is on by removing the spark wires to each cylinder one at a time while the engine is still cold enough to knock. (Don't get shocked!)... when you hit the right one, the knock will noticeably quieten or possibly quit altogether!

The 300 Six is a tough old motor and I have seen them survive for years with rod knocks... Just allow the engine ample warm-up time before driving, drive on the conservative side, and keep an eye on oil level and pressure.

An oil and filter change to a higher viscosity oil with a can of STP Oil Treatment (Or something similar) is a good band-aid fix for now, I would recommend Castrol GTX 20/50w... in my opinion, Castrol is the best brand out there, I use it religiously - - - I have a customer with a Chevy Suburban who has followed my advice and adhered to good maintenance discipline that has racked up over 300,000 miles on the original small block and no consumption or engine issues, and is still running strong!

Bill, the temporary fix will work for a while, hopefully a long while --- BUT when it reaches the point that the knock doesn't go away, it is time to park it until the real repair can be done --- otherwise you risk throwing a rod and destroying your engine beyond repair!!!

Please don't hesitate to post a comment or ask if you have further questions. I hope this information answers your question and concerns and wish you well with the Ford. *** And remember to rate my assistance... Your rating is my only compensation for helping you in the free blog!!!***

Thanks!
-WildBill

Jun 27, 2008 | 2007 Ford F-150 Harley Davidson

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