The brake pedal is going all the way to the floor and making a SSSSSSS like sound. If I pump them they go back to engaging higher but that only last one time then the hissing sounds & pedal goes to the floor again...The car has no problem stopping. This all happend after the parking break light came on but the parking break is not engaged. No fluid is leaking & fluid is full. the pedal even goes down when engine is off.
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Re: The brake pedel is going all the way to the floor
You have two problems here, one the Brake Master Cylinder is defective (pedal sinks to floor) and the other the Power Brake Booster is leaking (SSSS like sound), both will need to be replaced.
Here are the general instruction's on how to do this job, it is a 6 on a scale of 1-10 with 10 being the most difficult.
about the booster
The vacuum type brake booster on your vehicle multiplies the force you apply to the brake pedal to slow or stop the car. Engine vacuum acts on a diaphragm inside the booster, pushing a rod into the master cylinder to create the necessary pressure in the brake system. This booster diaphragm may develop punctures and other related mechanical failures after years of service.
Instructions, the booster and the master cylinder can be removed as one unit, make sure to bench blled the master cylinder before installing, the instructions to do this will come with the new master cylinder.
Things You'll Need:
Ratchet and socket sets
Slip joint pliers
New cotter pin
Removing the Old Brake Booster
Park your car in a safe place with enough room to work around the front and driver side of the vehicle.
Locate the booster push rod connected to the brake pedal.
Remove the cotter pin securing the booster push rod pin to the brake pedal using a pair of nose pliers.
Release the push rod pin from the brake pedal and slide the push rod off the brake pedal.
Unscrew the four mounting nuts off the brake booster studs using a ratchet, ratchet extension and socket. You should be able to see the four booster studs extending through the firewall, in front of the brake pedal.
Disconnect the vacuum hose from the brake booster, working from the engine compartment. Use a pair of slip joint pliers.
Remove the two nuts holding the brake master cylinder to the brake booster. Use a wrench or ratchet and socket.
Separate the brake master cylinder from the booster just enough to make room for booster removal.
Pull the brake booster off the firewall and remove it from the vehicle.
Installing the New Brake Booster
Set the new booster in place by sliding the push rod and four mounting studs through the mounting holes on the firewall.
Slide the brake master cylinder flange over the two mounting studs on the brake booster.
Start the two brake master cylinder mounting nuts by hand to avoid damage to the threads.
Tighten the two brake master cylinder mounting nuts using a wrench or ratchet and socket.
Connect the vacuum hose to the brake booster.
Screw the four mounting nuts to the brake booster working from inside the vehicle. Start the nuts by hand to avoid damaging the threads.
Tighten the four mounting nuts using the ratchet, ratchet extension and socket.
Position the brake booster push rod over the brake pedal and slide the push rod pin.
Install a new cotter pin to secure the booster push rod to the brake pedal.
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NO. the vacuum is used to make the brake pedal easy to push, power brakes. the pedal would be hard without vacuum, that is why the pedal gets hard with the key off and engine not running. the problem you are having is more of a hydraulic problem. Have the brakes checked asap. the brake system may have a leak causing the pedal to go low. check the fluid level and if it is low or empty then there is a problem, could be a rotted brake line leaking or a wheel cylinder leaking.
The clutch might be a hydraulic system. When it's leaking oil the pedal
sticks to the floor and has to be pulled back manually. Because it's
designed to be fail safe, it still works but only for some time till all
the oil has leaked out.
The burning smell might be clutch oil dripping on the exhaust - meaning the seal on the clutch servo is leaking oil.
There are repairkits for clutch servo's - usually it's suggested to replace the cylinder seal on the clutch pedal also.
I have the solution to your problem I have been thinking about it sir what is going on with you is you have air in your system and you did not properly bleed out your braking system that is why your pedal is touching the ground
Be sure to follow the proper steps to bleed the brakes. Start with a full master cylinder. Have someone in the car pump the brake pedal 3 times and hold it down while you loosen the bleed screw to let the air out. The pedal will go to the floor and must be held down until you tighten the fitting back up. If the brake pedal is let up before you tighten the fitting, it will draw air back into the system. You may have to do this procedure several times on each wheel to get the air out of all 4 lines. Be sure not to let the master cylinder run out of fluid while you are bleeding the lines.
hi from the uk have had this problem on a customers car b4 who had replaced frot calipers and pads and pedal went to floor on inspection of caliper i found that the steel spring clip that fits into two holes in the front face of caliper and must also locate behind the caliper carrierbehind two lugs was fitted incorrectly it had been fitted behind the outer pad resulting in when brake pedal off ?the caliper being floating type as it is known because it is fixed by two screw pins/bolts and moves on these pins/bolts as pads wear ? what happens is the spring fitted wrongly ? actually pushes against the outer pad and as a result the caliper piston is pushed back into its cylinder slightly as it moves on the locating pins/bolts resulting in pedal going to floor on 1st application but if pumped ? some brake pedal force is felt but is lost again when pedal released ? so try this ? remove the steel clips from both front calipers that retain caliper to carriers then press brake/pump pedal ? if as suggested above works? your pedal should pump up and remain ok when you release and still be firm when re applied ? all above is what i found on ford ford but many other models use similar calipers and spring locating recheck how this spring should locate hope this helps ? good luck
Many vechicals required maintenance to the brakes. Check your fuilds, usually pedel to floor means lack of fluids and also air in your break lines. Try cleaning grease your pins get the condition up to par. While you have the wheels off have a friend pump the brakes pedal and leave pedal to the floor Bleed your brake line one at a time there is a screw on the caliper release (usually on japan car 10mm screw) and tighten back up repeat proccess two times to brakes all around. Make you should you have brake fuild on hand buy the big bottle DOT3. If this process doesn't help than your would need to replace the master cyclinder, and booster
pump the pedal until it goes hard this is common when you push it back all the way just needs a few pumps to get it to extend back to the pads making contact with the rotor, is there any fluid leaking anywhere? is there brake fluid in reservoir?