Question about 1999 Plymouth Grand Voyager

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Was the conveter supose to spin freely when bolted

Was the torque conveter supose to spin freely when bolted back to drive plate

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I take it you were installing a transmission or engine that caused you to unblot the torque converter? The drive plate is bolted to the crankshaft, the torque converter is bolted to the drive plate, it should turn with the engine only. Hope this helps, let me know

Posted on Dec 10, 2009

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2 Answers

Should the torque converter spin freely after you install the engine and you still haven't installed the torque converter bolts


Maybe put the bolts in and try it if installed correctly the converter should be engaged in the Pump of the auto box.
at worst pump drive broken.

Jan 22, 2018 | Cars & Trucks

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I bought a new 22re crate motor because the other one was blown, hole in side of block.went to marry engine to transmission and I know for sure that the torque converter is seated all the way.so my...


never knew that a torque bolted to a flywheel, it is always bolted to a flex plate that drives the torque converter and carries the ring gear for the starter
there are washers that fit either of that flex plate or on some engines only on the converter side with the bevelled edge facing away from the plate
the torque converter is bolted to the flex plate by 3 or 4 bolts facing back to the converter from the block end
why are flywheels not used with torque converters
the mass of the flywheel affects the engine acceleration and the torque converter full of oil takes over that job so the engine acceleration would be considerable slower if both were used

Nov 26, 2017 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Flywheel torque spec's for 1983 Ford F-100


Could it be a F-150 instead?
Ford Engine Bolt Torque Chart Bolt Torque Spec Chart for Ford Engines

These specs are for stock-type bolts with light engine oil applied to the threads and the underside of the bolt head. Moly and other lubes offer reduced friction and increased bolt tension, which will affect the torque figure. If you use after-market performance bolts like ARP's, you should follow the recommended torque specifications.

260, 289, 302 Torque Spec.
Fastener Type Torque Spec Main cap bolts 60-70 ft-lbs Outer main cap bolts 35-40 ft-lbs. Connecting rod bolts (40-45 ft-lbs. for 289 HP & Boss 302) Cylinder head bolts 65-72 ft-lbs. Rocker arms 17-23 ft-lbs. Intake manifold bolts 23-25 ft-lbs Oil pump bolt 23-28 ft-lbs. Cam bolts 40-45 ft-lbs. Cam thrust plate bolts 8-10 ft-lbs. Harmonic damper bolts 70-90 ft-lbs. Flywheel / flex-plate bolts 75-85 ft-lbs. Pressure plate bolts 35 ft-lbs. Front cover bolts 12-15 ft-lbs. 351W Torque Spec.
Fastener Type Torque Spec Main cap bolts 95-105 ft-lbs Connecting rod bolts 40-45 ft-lbs. Cylinder head bolts 90-100 ft-lbs. Rocker arms 17-23 ft-lbs. Intake manifold bolts 23-25 ft-lbs. Oil pump bolts 23-28 ft-lbs. Cam bolts 40-45 ft-lbs. Cam thrust plate bolts 8-10 ft-lbs. Harmonic damper bolt 70-90 ft-lbs. Flywheel / flex-plate bolts 75-85 ft-lbs. Pressure plate bolts 35 ft-lbs. Front cover bolts 12-15 ft-lbs. 351C, 351M Torque Spec.
Fastener Type Torque Spec Main cap bolts 95-105 ft-lbs. Connecting rod bolts 40-45 ft-lbs. (45-50 ft-lbs. For Boss 351C) Cylinder head bolts 105 ft-lbs. (125 ft-lbs. For Boss 351C) Rocker arms (non-adjustable) Rocker arms (non-adjustable) 5/16in. intake manifold bolts 21-25 ft-lbs. 3/8in. intake manifold bolts 28-23 ft-lbs Oil pump bolt 25 ft-lbs. Cam bolts 40-45 ft-lbs. Cam thrust plate bolts 9-12 ft-lbs. Harmonic damper bolt 70-90 ft-lbs. Flywheel / flex-plate bolts 75-85 ft-lbs. Pressure plate bolts 35 ft-lbs. Front cover bolts 12-18 ft-lbs. 360, 390, 406, 427, 428FE Torque Spec.
Fastener Type Torque Spec Main cap bolts 95-105 ft-lbs. Crossbolts for 406-427 40 ft-lbs. Connecting rod bolts 40-45 ft-lbs. (53-58 ft-lbs. For 406 and 427) Cylinder head bolts 80-90 ft-lbs. (100-110 ft-lbs. For 1963-67 427) Rocker arm shaft bolts 40-45 ft-lbs. Intake manifold bolts 32-35 ft-lbs. Oil pump bolt 12-15 ft-lbs. Cam bolts 40-45 ft-lbs. Harmonic damper bolt 70-90 ft-lbs. Flywheel / flex-plate bolts 75-85 ft-lbs. Pressure plate bolts 35 ft-lbs. Front cover bolts 12-15 ft-lbs. 429-460 Torque Spec.
Fastener Type Torque Spec Main cap bolts 95-105 ft-lbs Connecting rod bolts 40-45 ft-lbs. Cylinder head bolts 140 ft-lbs. Rocker arms (non-adjustable) 18-22 ft-lbs. Intake manifold bolts 25-30 ft-lbs. Oil pump bolt 25 ft-lbs. Cam bolts 40-45 ft-lbs. Harmonic damper bolt 70-90 ft-lbs. Flywheel / flex-plate bolts 75-85 ft-lbs. Pressure plate bolts 35 ft-lbs. Front cover bolts 12-18 ft-lbs.

Dec 18, 2015 | Ford Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Torque spec's for the fly wheel


Ford Engine Bolt Torque Chart Bolt Torque Spec Chart for Ford Engines

These specs are for stock-type bolts with light engine oil applied to the threads and the underside of the bolt head. Moly and other lubes offer reduced friction and increased bolt tension, which will affect the torque figure. If you use after-market performance bolts like ARP's, you should follow the recommended torque specifications.

260, 289, 302 Torque Spec.
Fastener Type Torque Spec Main cap bolts 60-70 ft-lbs Outer main cap bolts 35-40 ft-lbs. Connecting rod bolts (40-45 ft-lbs. for 289 HP & Boss 302) Cylinder head bolts 65-72 ft-lbs. Rocker arms 17-23 ft-lbs. Intake manifold bolts 23-25 ft-lbs Oil pump bolt 23-28 ft-lbs. Cam bolts 40-45 ft-lbs. Cam thrust plate bolts 8-10 ft-lbs. Harmonic damper bolts 70-90 ft-lbs. Flywheel / flex-plate bolts 75-85 ft-lbs. Pressure plate bolts 35 ft-lbs. Front cover bolts 12-15 ft-lbs. 351W Torque Spec.
Fastener Type Torque Spec Main cap bolts 95-105 ft-lbs Connecting rod bolts 40-45 ft-lbs. Cylinder head bolts 90-100 ft-lbs. Rocker arms 17-23 ft-lbs. Intake manifold bolts 23-25 ft-lbs. Oil pump bolts 23-28 ft-lbs. Cam bolts 40-45 ft-lbs. Cam thrust plate bolts 8-10 ft-lbs. Harmonic damper bolt 70-90 ft-lbs. Flywheel / flex-plate bolts 75-85 ft-lbs. Pressure plate bolts 35 ft-lbs. Front cover bolts 12-15 ft-lbs. 351C, 351M Torque Spec.
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Fastener Type Torque Spec Main cap bolts 95-105 ft-lbs. Crossbolts for 406-427 40 ft-lbs. Connecting rod bolts 40-45 ft-lbs. (53-58 ft-lbs. For 406 and 427) Cylinder head bolts 80-90 ft-lbs. (100-110 ft-lbs. For 1963-67 427) Rocker arm shaft bolts 40-45 ft-lbs. Intake manifold bolts 32-35 ft-lbs. Oil pump bolt 12-15 ft-lbs. Cam bolts 40-45 ft-lbs. Harmonic damper bolt 70-90 ft-lbs. Flywheel / flex-plate bolts 75-85 ft-lbs. Pressure plate bolts 35 ft-lbs. Front cover bolts 12-15 ft-lbs. 429-460 Torque Spec.
Fastener Type Torque Spec Main cap bolts 95-105 ft-lbs Connecting rod bolts 40-45 ft-lbs. Cylinder head bolts 140 ft-lbs. Rocker arms (non-adjustable) 18-22 ft-lbs. Intake manifold bolts 25-30 ft-lbs. Oil pump bolt 25 ft-lbs. Cam bolts 40-45 ft-lbs. Harmonic damper bolt 70-90 ft-lbs. Flywheel / flex-plate bolts 75-85 ft-lbs. Pressure plate bolts 35 ft-lbs. Front cover bolts 12-18 ft-lbs.

Dec 18, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

When replacing a automatic transaxle on 2006 Mazda how do I Mach up torque converter to the driveplate


The torque converter will set back into the transmission housing. When you put it on the front shaft you have to turn it and wiggle it and push it in toward the rear of that housing. As you spin it it will drop back what feels like two times and there will be almost no clearance in the bell housing between them. So when you put it back up to the engine, the torque converter will spin free and be away from your flywheel flex plate. Then you can spin it to align to where it bolts. If you are bolting up tansmission and the torque converter does not spin freely you will ruin the front pump. I would also change the seal in the front for the converter because leaving the old one may leak. (Put a little grease on it does'nt let new seal run dry on initial start)

Jun 09, 2015 | 2006 Mazda 3

1 Answer

Is there a certain way you have to line up the torque converter to drive plate bolts? We're switching engines on my car and I don't want to mess anything up when putting the engine and transmission...


there is no set way to line up the converter to the flex plate. Some torque converters run 3 bolts and others 4 so check that before you reassemble. A very important clue to use here is when removing the tranny undo the torque converter from the flex plate and use a suitable restraint to keep the converter on the box shaft. It prevents contaminates from getting into the converter and keeps the converter engaged in the pump drive of the box and makes it a hell of lot easier when assembling up the box to the motor.

Jun 09, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

The flywheel bolt wont line up to where i can get the torque conveter bolts in


Make sure the torque converter is in all the way. It should spin freely and be about 1/2 - 1/4 inch away. You can either put a big socket on the bolt in the front of the harmonic balancer and turn the engine to where you can easily access the flywheel holes. Then while spinning the torque converter push in into the transmission. You may have to try to get a pry bar up in near the center of the torque converter to push it straight in (while spinning it). If not, you will either have to separate it again (take out the two side lower bolts first and insert some LONG ones of the same thread to give you room and keep it lined up) and remove the other 4 bolts completely. If you're sure it's in all the way. Either the torque converter or flywheel may be wrong. If you have a 4L60E and someone gave you a '98 or '00 there could be a problem as the '99 is supposed to be '99 only. Some people say otherwise. However it's been my experience that the '99 Astro/Safari/s10/s15 4 WD and AWD will work fine but other years sometimes have the peanut (small) converter. Or someone may have assumed that the 4L60E was the same from a full sized GM 4x4 product. I hope that helps. If so please leave a testimonial and rate my assistance. Thanks for using Fixya.

Feb 20, 2011 | 1999 Chevrolet Blazer

1 Answer

My 1992 Ranger has developed a violent vibration when engine is in gear and accelerating, especially uphill. Just had a new transmission put in and shifting is fine. When in park, engine can rev up and...


Hi,
if I were you, I would take the vehicle back to the shop which installed the Trans.
It sounds as if the torque converter has not been bolted securely to the engine flex / drive plate or is bolted incorrectly.

it will "load up' when you select drive, but will spin happily with no load applied as in Park or Neutral.

The drive shaft also needs to be checked, especially the mounting bolts and the UJ securing bolts.

\Either way, the shop which installed it needs to check it out.

Good luck.

Jan 25, 2011 | 1992 Ford Ranger

3 Answers

Torque converter will not turn after transmission bell housing bolts are tighten...what is wrong?


When installing a torque converter there are two separate steps for two separate shafts with two different sets of splines.You must first turn the torque converter when on the input shafts until you feel Both steps engage one at a time.And with each step the torque converter will go deeper into the bell housing.To tell if you have caught each of the steps correctly you will be able to easily turn the torque converter,even when the trans and engine are pulled up tight.There will even be a gap between the flex plate and torque converter.What ever you do don't use the starter to get the torque converter all the way in.Take out the two bottom bolts of the trans and replace them with 1" longer ones.Then remove all the other bolts from the housing.Slide the trans as far back on those two bolts as you can until the torque converter will turn easily again,then turn while pushing in toward the trans until you feel the converter slip in that last step.Slide the trans back up to the engine and make sure the converter still spins freely,then finish your install.My first trans I literally broke the transmission housing by not fully seating the converter.Hope this helps?

Jan 01, 2010 | 1999 Ford Econoline

1 Answer

98 toyota 4runner limited. I'm replacing the torque converter. Does it need to be bolted on to the drive plate in a certain way. I mean the manual tells to mark the torque converter to drive plate but...


You do not need to worry about where to bolt. One tip though, do not tighten the tC bolts until they are all in place. If you tighten one then you will not line up with the others. The exception to this is when you look at your fly wheel, see if one of the tc holes is slightly smaller than the others. If it is put that one in position for your first bolt. This will line up the tc for the other holes and you only have to turn it once and can torque the bolts down as you go around.

You do not need new bolts unless you damaged the ones taking them out. I owned an AAMCO and managed trans shops and never had to buy new bolts unless I lost them or they were rounded out getting them off.

Hope this helps

Nov 19, 2009 | 1998 Toyota 4Runner

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