Question about 1995 Chevrolet Lumina

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Battery installation or replacement there is a plastic piece or block that is shaped to fit aginst the battery and the metal plate that the battery sits on. I cannot figure out how to install this piece to keep the battery from shifting around. john

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That piece simply goes down beside the battery, and has a bolt that goes through it into the battery tray. Once you tighten the bolt down, it tightens up against the battery.

Place the small end down, and the fat end up.

If you cannot see the hole that the bolt goes into then move the battery forward or back. If the hole is still not visible, you may not have the right battery for the car.

Posted on Dec 10, 2009

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  • Chevrolet Master
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Hi:
The plastic piece is wedge shaped with a machine screw that runs down the middle. Your battery has a ridge that should lock under the edge of your metal battery tray, so the plastic wedge should force the battery back towards the edge of the metal tray.

Posted on Dec 10, 2009

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1998 pontiac gtp key will not come out of ignition


Did a search and found a temporary solution

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The muffler hanger broke on my toyota corolla, how do i replace the hanger?


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1995 Buick LeSabre, 3.8 engine. Plastic fitting from water pump hose into the engine block,(behind the alternator).This plastic fitting is broken off at the engine block. I assume that this part is...


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2001 alero. windsheild washer line from pump is routed around the battery that rubs aginst the corner of the battery causing a hole in the line resulting in loss of all washer fluid. this is either a...


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You're going to lose some coolant, so have a bucket or other container ready. Follow the upper radiator hose to the point where it's connected to the engine. The hose is clamped to a metal housing which is bolted to the engine. Remove the bolts (not the hose) and lift the housing to expose the thermostat (may require a little prying with a screwdriver or similar tool). Note how the old thermostat is fitted (which end is up), lift it out of the engine, and then remove all traces of gasket from the housing and the engine. Install the new thermostat and gasket, replace the bolts, add coolant as necessary, and you're done.

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I have a 99 buick century and it has a blown headgasket i need to know if it is the same problem that the 3.8 had with the plastic piece melting and they have a kit with a metal piece to replace it ??


yes the new system kits has launched with metal fittings instead of plastic.as when the heat increases the plastic starts melting but the metal does not get melt and due to this it lasts longer.but fitting metal piece is bit a garage mechanic job as its bit hart to set the metal piece and plastic piece fits quite easily.but once the metal piece is fitted then its no problem.
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Oct 30, 2009 | Buick Century Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

Driver's side window won't go up. Possible switch or motor? How to replace motor or get window to go up manually.


Solution: Chevy Impala Window Fix - If the window goes down but wont go up or stutters on the way up. This is a difficult process but if you have some common knowledge and a little know how it takes about an hour to fix.

I broke mine by leaving the window down and then rolling the window up while it was wet. I did this multiple times so I cannot blame Chevy for the problem. Started stuttering at 80,000 miles

Tools: Star drive screw driver, small flat head screw drivers, dental pick, Q-tips, thin sheet of hard plastic (I used two hotel room key cards) Optional: Soldering equipment

1.) Remove the two screws in the handle of the door to and take out the window control switch. (easy)
2.) Unclip the two wiring harnesses on the back of the panel - I did this with a flat head screw driver and a hotel room key card to wedge under the clips and not break the harnesses. (easy)
3.) Remove the back of the Window Switch box. Once again I used aflat head screw driver and two hotel room key cards to wedge under the clips. (complicated - most time consuming portion for me)
4.) Take off the five window switch tops, pull slighty to one side and then the other. They do come off but it feel like you're going to break the thing. (easy but do it slow)
5.) One the five button tops are removed take off the top of the switch plate. (easy)

Now you're looking at the main switch circuit board. I took a picture to make sure I knew what the circuit board should look like when reassembled.

6.) Remove the large plastic X in the middle of the board. Then use a dental pick to unclip the plastic "horseshoe" attached to the driver side window switch. (easy)
7.) Use a dental pick to carefully unclip the driverside window switch. Visually Note the position of the two "M" shaped pieces. Then take out the two little "M" shaped metal pieces. At this point the bottom right connection of the switch in my car was all blackened by lots of use. I used a Q-Tip to clean all the areas of the switch. Note: there should be some lubricant on the top of the 2 "M" shaped pieces of metal so the switch functions efficiently. (Complicated - go slow)

At this point I took apart the right rear window switch to see the difference in wear. Do not try to exchange another Switch with the driver side window switch. The driver side window switch has clips for the "horseshoe" piece that was detached earlier.

8.) Two choices to Fix the problem:
A:) Put a slight bend in the left "M" shaped piece of the switch so that the connection can be completed when pressing the window button. (Easy)
B:) Put a small dollup of solder to raise the connection area, to complete the connection. (Complicated)

I put a slight bend in the left "M" shaped piece. You can visually see the difference in the two pieces when you press them down. The Left "M" shapped piece in my Switch had to raise up an additional 1/16 of an inch to touch the lower side of the connection. With a slight bend it worked perfectly. I had my solder gun ready but figured if it went out again I could put a dollup of solder in the bottom connection to fix it the next time. No sense in taking the risk of over soldering when a simple bend did the trick.

9.) Reassemble - reattach the top of the driver side window switch ( make sure the blue dot is facing outward), reattach the "horseshoe" shaped clip to the window switch, put the large plastic X back in the middle of the Switch (it can only be put in one way, there is a gap to cover the auto roll down horseshoe piece), put the top plate of the switch back on, put the back of the switch plate back on, then reattach the window buttons to the top of the switch plate, reattach to the two wiring harnesses - Double check the button is working, then put back in the door and screw back in place. (easy)

Troubleshoot: If the button didn't work, redo steps 1-6, then slowly do step 7, then take apart another switch and compare, make sure the "M" shaped pieces are in the appropriate position, if they are add a small dollup of solder to the lower left portion of the window connection and file down the top of the solder for a flat solid connection. Reassemble and try again. If the window still won't go up. Take apart, then exhange components of another switch on the circuit board. You will no longer be able to use the Auto Roll down function but at least the window will work properly. By exchanging the pieces of another switch on the circuit board you may loose the function of that window, but you can always get out of the car and use the switch on that door to roll the window up or down.

Hopefully that works, if not, go to a junk yard and get the pieces out of another switch it can be almost any Chevy of similar year Switch.

Oct 20, 2009 | 2001 Chevrolet Impala

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