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CHECK COOLANT FAN FUSES AND RELAYS. CHECK COOLANT LEVEL.MAKE SURE ITS NOT TOO LOW BECAUSE IF COOLANT TOO LOW . BY NO COOLANT AROUND OR COOLANT SENSOR NOT SUBMERGED IN COOLANT COOLING FANS WONT TURN ON.MAKE SURE YOU HAVE 50/50 ANTIFREEZE AND WATER. CHECK FOR CLAPSE RADIATOR HOSES.CHECK RADIATOR HOSE AT WATER PUMP.IF HOSE LOOK CLAPSE REPLACE IT AND BLEED COOLANT SYSTEM.IF EVERY THING HAS BEEN DONE YOU NEED ENGINE BLOCK FLUSHED OUT.HEATER CORE ALSO COULD BE STOPPED UP.A VERY HIGH MILEAGE ENGINE WILL OVER HEAT.OLD ENGINE LOSES COMPRESSION AND HORSE POWER.PUTTING MORE LOAD ON THE OLD ENGINE WILL MAKE IT OVER HEAT.IF COOLANT LEVEL IS LOW.BLEED COOLANT SYSTEM.START THE ENGINE LET IT IDLE FEW MINUTES WATCH THE COOLANT TEMPERATURE GAUGE.WHEN TEMPERATURE START RISING.TURN OFF THE ENGINE LET IT SET FOR 20 MINUTES.TAKE A LARGE RAG PLACE OVER RADIATOR CAP ON COOLANT EXPANSION TANK SLOWLY OPEN RADIATOR CAP JUST A LITTLE TO RELEASE A LITTLE PRESSURE AT A TIME.DONT OPEN CAP RAPIDLY OR YOU WILL GET SCALDED.ONCE THE RADIATOR CAP REMOVED.IF COOLANT LOW ADD MORE COOLANT IN THE THE COOLANT EXPANSION UNTIL YOU GET TO THE COLD MARK.REPEAT THIS PROCEDURE START ENGINE LET IT RUN UNTIL TEMP GAUGE START CLIMBING A BIT DONT LET CAR RUN TO OVER HEAT JUST IDLE UNTIL TEMP JUST START TO RISE.THEN YOU TURN OFF ENGINE. WAIT 20 MINUTES.THEN USE LARGE RAG OPEN RADIATOR CAP LITTLE AT A TIME. DO THIS PROCEDURE UNTIL THE COOLANT IN THE EXPANSION TANK STOP DROPPING. THEN ALL THE AIR IS BLEED OUT THE COOLANT.WHEN COOLANT LEVEL STOP DROPPING, WHEN YOU DRIVE CAR AROUND.AND TURN OFF ENGINE.WHEN ENGINE OFF CAR SET FOR A WHILE KEEP CHECK ON THE COOLANT LEVEL IN COOLANT EXPANSION TANK. THE COOLANT LEVEL SHOULD BE AT THE COLD MARK IN THE EXPANSION TANK.MAKE SURE COOLANT IS IN THE EXPANSION TANK.IF NOT AIR WILL DRAW IN COOLANT SYSTEM. CAUSING ENGINE TO OVER HEAT.IF BLEEDING AIR OUT THE COOLANT SYSTEM DONT HELP AND COOLANT FANS DONT TURN ON YOU HAVE PCM PROBLEMS.
can be challenging to "burp" Sometimes it takes several attempts to
get the air out of the system. The procedure is simple. Top off the
radiator, squeeze the hose a few times to help get the air out, replace
the cap and start the car. let it idle or drive slowly near home with
the heat on high. once the temp gauge begins to rise, if there is no
heat get the car back to the driveway before the temp gauge gets half
way. Shut the engine off wait for it to cool, at least 10 minutes.
Then check the radiator again. If there is still air top off again and
repeat. After 3 or 4 attempts if there is still air and or the coolant
reservoir seems to be filling, try replacing the radiator cap. If this
doesn't solve the problem, It may be a head gasket.
Sounds like a chronic case of plugged heater core. Water can flow through the tubes as long as the flow is slow. When the engine speed is raised, the flow decreases. If you would like to contact me again about this or other problems, feel free to do so. Bill ASE Master Technician
I have the same exact problem, but with idling roughly between 700 and sometimes upwards of 2000+ RPM. I don't have the problem you do as far as the engine heat goes, but I definitely feel the tug, hear the engine sounding bogged down at stops, and when in neutral, finding it idling extremely high. My check engine light had come on just this past month (with this problem occuring for a little over a year now), and it turns out I have a bad Throttle Positioning Sensor, which my mechanic says can cause the high idling. I'm replacing the sensor this weekend with a dealer part, which I got for $102, so I'll post again once it's done to let you know if that fixed the problem or not.
Hope this helps,