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Re: no heat on 1999 blazier
Water pump may be worn and needs to be replaced. You can try flushing out the heater core it self buy disconnecting the two heater hose from the water pump and flushing water through it to get any restriction out. Once you flushed out the heater core, reattached the hose at the water pump and see if that helps. If not then your going to have to replace the water pump it self. Good luck
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Is your 3800 producing normal heat? If so, the temp sensor is probably bad...If not, try replacing the radiator cap...if your system has air trapped inside, it usually runs hot, not cold...the heat is the key to functioning properly for you...Your radiator is a 4 stage huge system that normally cools very well...if you have heat, I still think your temp sensor is bad...ask to see one at your parts store, will help you to locate it. Hope this helps.
indicates a head gasket problem
at idle the gasket is sealing but under load is allowing compression into water jacket
do a compression test
check cat converter for failure blocking exhaust
run fault codes to check for mixture control problems
disconnect the heat hoses going into fire wall , put hose into one with pressure and flush as it sounds like it could be bloked in the heater core,the other thing that could be the problem be the hot ,cold switch as it restricts the flow to makes the heater hoter or colder , it might need tlc or replacing as it is manaul not elec
You should always use 50/50 mix in the system. At that concentration it both lowers the freezing point and raises the boiling point. A good working pressure cap is also necessary. (and no leaks anywhere in the system) Having the proper mix of coolant will not change the coolant temperature though. Coolant temp is controlled by the thermostat in the engine, the radiator and the electric fan. If any of those items aren't right, the engine will run hotter than it should. Most newer engines run at between 210 and 220 degrees (f). (lower # is better) If you need info pertaining to a specific item just ask!
1. Make sure the car is cold. Remove the radiator cap (press & turn about 1/4 turn to remove pressure in the system) Once the pressure is bled off you can remove cap and leave it rest on the filler opening.
2. Find the petcock on the radiator (the little valve attached to the radiator. You have to open/turn clockwise to drain the anti-freeze. Drain anti freeze below thermostat housing. About 1/2 to 1 gallon.
3. Have a catch basin for the anti freeze under the car. Remove upper radiator hose from radiator and thermostat housing.
4. Remove thermostat housing from engine block (usually two or three bolts in the thermostat housing). Scrap off ALL old gasket material from engine block. Double check and make sure all gasket material is removed from surface. If not the thermostat housing will leak.
5. Install new gasket with some high temp silicone. Place a couple of dabs on the thermostat housing and gasket (the silicone is used to keep the gasket in place) *MAKE SURE YOU INSTALL the thermostat the same way you took it out. Don't over tighten the thermostat housing bolts.
6. Remove the radiator cap and replace the anti freeze you removed (make sure the anti freeze is clean). Fill the radiator to the top of the filler neck and replace the radiator cap (push and turn the radiator cap to the right- like a pill bottle). Start the car and make sure the temperture guage goes up. The guage pointer should be in the middle of the guage.
7. Check the radiator reservoir for proper anti freeze level. DO NOT OPEN THE RADIATOR CAP WHEN THE CAR IS HOT!!! THE ANTI FREEZE IS HOT AND WILL BURN YOU.
Re fill the system with the engine running and heater on high. Make sure that there are no leaks anywhere and that the electric fan is coming on as needed. If you see excessive white smoke from the tailpipe, coolant in the engine oil, oil in the coolant, you likely have a blown head gasket. With the heater on, it acts as an auxiliary radiator ...that's why the temp becomes lower. Many times if the actual radiator is internally plugged, the heater provides just enough additional cooling to prevent the engine from overheating. If you continue to have problems and have checked for leaks etc., I would look there for problems. One item: Your thermostat becomes unreliable after any overheat. You should replace it even if you find a problem elsewhere. I usually begin testing by changing that because if it has failed, you won't find the problem and, I know I will be replacing it, for the reason I mentioned, so better to get it out of the way to begin with. Good luck.
Usually when the temp is jumping around that's an indication the system is low on coolant. That could also be why you're not getting any heat. With the engine cold, remove the radiator cap and check the coolant level. If it's low add a 50/50 mixture of anti-freeze and water that should protect it against freezing to -30 F. Make sure you add the same color anti-freeze that's in the system, you're not supposed to mix different colors. The old cars always used green but that was not environment friendly. There should be a plastic burp or surge tank make sure that is filled to the proper level also. Check it again in a day or two to see if it's still full. You may want to check it periodically or have the system checked for leaks by a shop.
sound like you have a bubble in the system. make sure you drain all liquid out, make sure the thermostat is the proper temp rating and is not backwards. Fill the radiator up turn the car on turn the heater on full blast fill up the over flow with anti freeze. put the radiator cap on. watch the temp in the car. dont let it get all the way in the red. you should see the overflow tank start to get the anti freeze sucked out of it don't let run dry. I had this problem with my 2004 dodge ram. This is how a master mech told me to do it