I have a 1996 VW Jetta (2.0 L engine), 5speed trans. While driving, the case that the oil filter threads into cracked and all my oil spilled out, and the engine seized. Some damage was done to the engine (oil fliter filled with metal), but a friend was able to get it running with a bad knock. I need to get it driveable. What's the best way to go about this? First I need to know how to find the cracked part. Then what should I check next? I can't afford to replace the entire engine and I don't have the knowledge to fix it myself. But I also don't have the money to pay a mechanic to fix it either.
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Re: Oil filter case cracked!
Sorry dude but that engine is done for. Getting it driveable would mean getting the crankshaft out for a regrind at an engineer's shop. Compare/get prices for this: 1.Regrind 2.New big end bearings 3.New Main Bearings 4.Conversion gasket set. and then either: 1.Block(pistons and crankshaft included) 2.Full gasket set or: replacement engine You also need Torque wrench(essential) spline keys and a set of sockets (10-17 mm) Your easiest option would be a breaker's yard and a replacement engine. Or at the very least a bottom end(Block, crank,pistons) Fortunately for you VW's engines are a dime a dozen and they all fit on the same gearbox. Anything from a 1.6 litre upwards.(If you can't find a 2l block) With care you can do the swop yourself. If you're able to obtain a block and need to do the switch post here or mail me on firstname.lastname@example.org. It is quite a job but I can talk you through it and afterwards we can post the results here for the benefit of other members.
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Remove the oil filter and there is a nut that you take off (same threads as oil filter) the oil filter adapter will become loose, continue to slide it off, on the engine side of the adapter is the O-Ring, replace the o-ring and install in reverse order.
That would be the high speed oil pressure sensor telling you there is a problem with your oil pressure.Your computer is reading insufficient oil pressure to maintain engine integrity above 2000RPM.
There are 2 oil sending units mounted on top of the oil filter housing. I don't have wiring for your year so I can't tell you for sure, but on my 1992 they are brown ( low pressure) and white (high pressure). Check the wiring carefully for cracks or bare spots in the insulation and fix any you find. Also make sure the wiring is good at the plug-ins. VW wiring won't tolerate cracks and often will break right where it meets the plug-in. Also if you have recently moved these wires you may have plugged them in wrong. I would most definately get the pressure checked with a mechanical oil pressure guage to be sure of the pressure. If it's good, 29 PSI at 2000 RPM then I would be looking at a bad sending unit. Hope this helps.
THE 5 SPEED AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION At the bottom of the automatic gearbox (tiptronic) you will find one threaded plug on below surface, (follow red arrow in the picture below). This is for emptying.
The oil level threaded plug is placed on the car front lateral automatic gearbox surface, (follow yellow arrow in the picture below).
The filling oil plug is placed on the upper automatic gearbox surface, (follow green arrow in the picture below).
Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) checking: 1. Requirements for check: 1.1. Vehicle standing on level surface. 1.2. Transmission must not be in fail-safe mode. 1.3. Shift lever in "P" position, parking brake applied. 1.4. Engine idling. 1.5. Air Conditioner and heater OFF. 1.6. ATF temperature must not exceed 104 Fahrenheit degree (40 Celsius degree) at start of test. 1.7. Automatic gearbox oil capacity: 2,5 liter. Only ATF with VW designation may be used. Do not use any lubricant additives. 1.8. Automatic Transmission Fluid ATF - part number: VW G 052 990 A2 1.9. An ATF level check when transmission oil temperature is too low results in overfilling, when too high results in underfilling. 2. CAUTION: Too much or too little ATF will affect the operation of the transmission. The ATF level must be checked at regular intervals.
Hallo 1.Disconect lower hose from intercooler and oil (from 0,1 liter or more) (sometimes 1-2 liters) comes out, you should not drive it.(car had probably loose power) Change the turbine, oil and oil filter. do not forget to disconect lower hose and let oil drain out. Otherwise when new turbine is instald, the air flow will **** this oil inside the engine and distroy it. 2.your car is not designed to run without turbine and will not work like normal disel.(SDI). hope it helps Marko
I have a 1997 jetta and have been through this. Go to the volkswagen dealer and have them pull up the oil cooler housing. You will see a gasket (o-ring) that seals the two pieces of this housing together. Buy that. Your old one has gotten brittle from years of extreme temperature swings and cracked ( it will be like hard plastic when you remove it.) Unscrew your filter, take a 27mm socket (prob need deep well) and unscrew the nut at the top of stud where the filter screws to. Take it all the way off and remove the old o-ring. Clean the area well and put your new oil swabbed o-ring in and reverse the above steps. 30 min 8 dollar fix. Good luck!
Jetta GLI figuring it's a VR6 use a 6 mm allen socket to remove the drain plug to empty the oil and reinstall it. The use a 36 mm socket to remove the oil filter housing, replace the seal and torque it to 25nm.
Hi Dohn. The save levelto fill you oil is 3/4 from empty on your dip stick. This gives the engine space to breath. What has most likely happened here is, the engine has had too much oil and is trying to find a way out which will end up on your drive or through yor exhaust.
It can be either electrical short or mechanical trouble. Have the oil pressure test done on the car at two different sites - one in the engine block near the valve cover and another in the top of oil filter housing. If the pressure is in the normal range, then it's electrical short. If it isn't in the normal range, it is either something is blocking the oil from circulating or needs bearing replacement.
A quick (but not accurate) test would be to have the car running and check the oil level. If the oil level remains constant, then the oil might not be circulating (which is why manuals often say check the oil when the engine is not running). Be careful not to drive it if it looks like that the oil isn't circulating because it could lead to serious damage (in other words, engine rebuilding with bearing replacement).