Question about 2005 Ford Freestyle
Mazda/Ford ute 2.5 turbo diesel, head cracked and was replaced with a brand new one. Only 3 weeks later we heard a poof, lost power and once we turned off the engine it wouldn't start again. It has oil pouring out at the front - kinda near the timing belt area. WHAT HAS HAPPENED NOW???
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
If I understand you right, the problem is at certain times the engine will not crank, that is turn over when you turn they ignition key to START. And at times it will start and run normally.
Might it be that the issue is with the starter system. The starter system is initiated at the ignition switch when the key is turned to start. At this point, the ignition switch then provides +12VDC to a starter relay. The relay is but a remote switch with slightly higher amperage capacity. The starter relay then engages and supplies +12VDC to the staring solenoid. The starting solenoid then performs two (2) functions. It provides the switching action (hundreds amps) from the battery heavy cable to the actual starter motor. The solenoid likewise pushes a small pinion gear along the shaft of the starter motor to engage the ring gear. The ring gear is of course on the edge of the flywheel which in turn is attached to the crankshaft.
Starter system problems could be corrected by:
1. check battery, battery cables and connections;
2. charge the battery if required;
3. clean brushes and guides of brush holders of the starter motor;
4. clean the commutator and commutator segments;
5. check/replace the armature or field coils if determined to be defective;
6. in some extreme cases it could be the drive pinion or the flywheel gear ring is defective.
7. often it is the big switch that the solenoid activates that looses contacts causing no +12V internally to the motor.
8. Most likely would be a defective starter relay or the IGN switch itself. Relative to this, you might try and check the connectors/terminals and electrical joints.
In the picture below, the upper portion is the starter solenoid while the one below it is the actual starter.
Given the amount of work to overhaul a starter, you might consider just replacing it.
This of course assuming that all other vital components of the car are working.
Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.
Good luck and kind regards.
Thank you for using FixYa.
Posted on Jun 09, 2008
If the engine is running ok it will be a return line,or a leaking injection line,Has your engine been worked on before on the top end if and line has been bent in the past it is proned to leak,I hope this helps
Posted on Sep 01, 2009
Testimonial: "sounds good, I'll check, I just got back from Iraq, and my wife had a friends husband work on my truck while I was gone, Thanks, love the name, Karl"
you need to have the engine coolant switch
checked,since the computer relies solely on sensors,the ect tells the computer how cold or hot it is so the
computer will make it a rich or lean mixture to start the engine,if it tells the
computer that it is 75 degrees the computer will lean the mixture like starting
a car in the winter without a choke.
Posted on Jan 06, 2010
The radiator should be under pressure. If the cap for the overflow or radiator is worn, then this can cause it to overheat and the system will not have pressure. If the cap is off, the water should be seen flowing, thus letting your know the thermostat and water pump are working, but it doesn't mean they are working 100%.
Posted on May 09, 2010
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