I need a clutch plate assembly picture/ diagram where can I find this without having to purchase a book? I am trying to install this but the instructions are written in Chinese. If I could see a digram I can get it installed.
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the problem may have been in the damper spring setup in the clutch plate
it the clutch plate was a standard plate , it would have had 4 damper coil springs but the last plate fitted may have been a heavy duty plate that would have had 5 or 6 damper springs
if the springs are of insufficient tension then there is a grabbing action during clutch engagement but with more springs and different tensions that is overcome and the action is a smooth clutch application
manufacturers that have design faults quickly change the design as clutch shops are fussy when it comes to rework so I would think that it is not the clutch but an incorrect plate for the application
If you machined the flywheel and assembled the clutch without placing a shim between the flywheel and the engine crank shaft, this is most likely what your problem is. If you took 30 thousanths of an inch off of the flywheel, this could move the pressure plate in toward the engine just far enough that the throw-out bearing cannot get enough travel to disengage the clutch. You need to take it back apart and put a 30 thousanth flywheel shim in it. (or 40 thousanth, 50 thousanth, etc. depending on how much was taken off of the flywheel.) See the picture below of a flywheel shim. This is an example...one that will fit your car may look a little different.
It is best to replace the clutch driven plate, pressure plate and release bearing at the same time. You have to remove either the transmission or the engine(or both). On some vehicles it is not possible to remove the engine without the transmission. I prefer removing the transmission only, since it does not require a hoist. (Removing engine and transmission complete is a bit more complicated,theres much more things to disconnect, but makes things easier when mating the transmission to the engine after replacing the clutch assembly). When removing the transmission only make sure the engine is properly supported, since the engine is supported by the transmission and vise versa. Take note of all pipes and cables that you remove and mark them with masking tape since that gives you something to write a description on. Remember to mark the spot that you disconnect from as well. Taking close-up pictures of the engine bay will work wonders when your memory fails. Read through this : http://www.fixya.com/cars/t4984410-remove_front_axle_get_engine (solution 2) Drain transmission oil. Remove the driveshafts as described.
Remove any electrical connections to the gearbox.
Remove the gearshift linkage. Remove the clutch cable/clutch operating mechanism(hydraulic clutch) Remember to support the engine before unbolting the transmission from the engine. Remove any mountings still connecting the transmission to the body of the car.. Remove the transmission from the engine bay. It is possible to do this by hand (a helper would be a plus at this point) The clutch pressure plate is then visible on the engine and held in place by 6 bolts. It can be removed along with the clutch plate(which will drop free once the pressure plate is removed. Replacing the clutch is pretty straightforward, except that the clutch plate needs to be centered, or the transmission wont go back on. Autozone stocks a clutch centering tool which you can purchase although some clutch kits come with the centering tool supplied, else you can fashion one out of a wooden dowel. The dowel needs to fit snugly into the recess in the centre of the flywheel. Use insulation tape to build it up if it is too thin. The clutch plate can go in one way only. You will note that the clutch plate centre has a metal plate fitted on one side. This is the transmission side of the plate. Fit the clutch plate and pressure plate to the flywheel and tighten the bolts just enough to hold the clutch plate in place so that it doesnt move around. Using your centering tool make sure the clutch plate is nicely centered. Then tighten the bolts to the specified torque. Which means tighten them up without breaking them. Get the transmission fitted to the engine. This may take some doing especially if the clutch centering didnt go too well. Now reconnect everything and drive the vehicle to the nearest alignment centre to re-set the wheel alignment.
You need to get a manual. Try the Haynes manual for your car. Try autozone; generally available for around $20. This is not the type of thing that can be covered here in enought detail to do you any good.
disconect the negative battery cable, set parking brake
locate the trans mounting bolts
get something to support the engine and something to support the trans
seperate the trans from the motor by removing the bolts. On transverse mounted engines you will probably have to pull the trans to get enough room to remove the clutch and you'll probably have to remove the 1/2 shaft axles (front wheel cars) or drive shaft (rear wheel drive cars)
If replacing the entire clutc assembly (pressure plate, flywheel, and clutch), loosen the pressure plate mounting bolts gradually working your way around the pressure plate. If only replacing the clutch then seperate the sperate the pressure plate from the flywheel and remobe. Align clutch with a clutch allignment tools and replace pressure plate. Torque bolts to spec. reconnect the trans to the motor. Few other things to think about. You should replace the throwout bearng when doing a clutch. Lube the clutch fork as directed without getting lub on the clutch face. Hopefully I have convinced yu to get a manual or you will be hating life if you take this on without it.
Below is process for removing and replacing the clutch assembly.
Hope this helps, good luck.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
See Figures 1, 2 and 3
Fig. Fig. 1: Exploded view of the clutch disc and cover assembly
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
If equipped with a cable clutch (1982-84 vehicles), disconnect the cable at the clutch release lever and transaxle, as outlined earlier in this section.
For 1985-94 vehicles remove the sound insulator from inside the vehicle. Disconnect the clutch master cylinder pushrod from the clutch pedal.
Fig. Fig. 2: Disconnect the clutch actuator (slave) cylinder line - 1995-96 vehicles
Remove the transaxle, as outlined earlier in this section.
Mark the pressure plate assembly and the flywheel so that they can be assembled in the same position. They were balanced as an assembly at the factory.
Loosen the attaching bolts one turn at a time until spring tension is relieved.
Support the pressure plate and remove the bolts. Remove the pressure plate and clutch disc. Do not disassemble the pressure plate assembly; replace it if defective.
Inspect the flywheel, clutch disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing and the clutch fork and pivot shaft assembly for wear. Replace the parts as required. If the flywheel shows any signs of overheating, or if it is badly grooved or scored, it should be refaced or replaced.
Fig. Fig. 3: You must follow the specified sequence when tightening the pressure plate retaining bolts To install:
Clean the pressure plate and flywheel mating surfaces thoroughly.
Position the clutch disc and pressure plate into the installed position, and support with a dummy shaft or clutch aligning tool, tool J 29074 or equivalent. The clutch plate is assembled with the damper springs offset toward the transaxle. One side of the factory supplied clutch disc is stamped "Flywheel Side".
Install the pressure plate-to-flywheel bolts. Tighten them in the sequence shown in the accompanying figure, as follows:
Tighten bolts 1,2,3, then 4,5,6 in the sequence shown to 12 ft. lbs. (16 Nm).
Tighten bolts 1,2,3, then 4,5,6 in the sequence shown to 15-22 ft. lbs. (22-30 Nm) plus an additional 30° turn.
Remove the clutch alignment tool.
Lubricate the outside groove and the inside recess of the release bearing with high temperature grease. Wipe off any excess. Install the release bearing.
Install the transaxle, as outlined earlier in this section.
When adjusting the cruise control switch, do NOT exert an upward force on the clutch pedal pad of more than 20 lbs. (89 N) or damage to the master cylinder pushrod retaining ring may result.
For 1985-94 vehicles, attach the clutch master cylinder pushrod to the clutch pedal and secure with the retaining clip. If equipped with cruise control, check the switch adjustment at the clutch pedal bracket. Install the sound insulator.
If equipped with a cable clutch, attach the clutch cable at the transaxle and clutch release lever. Check the clutch operation by lifting the clutch pedal up to allow the mechanism to adjust the cable length. Depress the pedal slowly a few times to set the pawl into mesh with the quandrant teeth.
All 1982-84 models have a self-adjusting clutch mechanism located on the clutch pedal, eliminating the need for periodic free play adjustments. The self-adjusting mechanism should be inspected periodically as follows:
Depress the clutch pedal and look for the pawl on the self-adjusting mechanism to firmly engage the teeth on the ratchet.
Release the clutch. The pawl should be lifted off of the teeth by the metal stop on the bracket.
On 1985 and later models, the hydraulic clutch system provides automatic clutch adjustment. No adjustment of clutch linkage or pedal position is required.
Just put it back the same way you took it off. If you buy the right clutch kit (Sachs I think) it should come with a disc alignment tool. Remember to tighten the pressure plate bolts evenly all the way around the plate. And don't forget the pilot bushing or bearing.