2002 Chevrolet TrailBlazer Logo
Posted on Dec 08, 2009
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Crank shaft sensor? is this the same as cam shaft

Crank shaft sensor? is this the same as cam shaft sensor?..2002 TB looses acceleration and stalls out.

  • 1 more comment 
  • Anonymous Mar 13, 2014

    how to change

  • Anonymous Mar 14, 2014

    How do i replace

  • Anonymous Mar 15, 2014

    THE VALVES WERE CHANGED ALONG WITH TIMING BELTS AND CRANK SHAFT AND CAM SHAFT SENSORS. WHAT IS THE PROBLEM

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  • Master 1,985 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 09, 2009
Anonymous
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Joined: Nov 17, 2009
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No each one has its own job,
crank sensor is counting crank shaft rpms
cam sensor is counting cam shaft rpms
is there any lights coming on just as this is happening?
i think you should have the fuel pressure checked when it dies out,you need at least 50psi at fuel rail

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2002 Chevy Astro P1345 possible short in the wiring? Where should I start?

This a very common problem.
A loose CMP sensor causing a variance in the sensor signal
Excessive free play in the timing chain and gear assembly
Incorrectly installed distributor - 1 tooth off in either advance or retard positions
A loose distributor rotor on the distributor shaft
A faulty crank position sensor
tip

CMP - Cam shaft Position Sensor

<p><b><span>3.2) <span> </span><u>CMP - Cam shaft Position </u>(sensor)<u> </u></span></b><br /> <p><b><u><br /></u></b><br /> <p><b><span>What is it?</span></b><span><span> </span>This electrical device is very similar in concept to the crank position sensor (above) in that it detects the position of the rotation of a shaft, in this instance the cam shaft.<span> </span>It is the cam shaft signal that indicates to the ECU that cylinder one is at top dead centre at compression and in the process provides the ECU with the timing reference for fuel injection.<span> </span>The cam shaft sensor provides extra information, to that of the crank sensor, to fine tune timed events such as injection and spark delivery.</span><br /> <p><span> </span><br /> <p><b><span>Where is it located?</span></b><span> The location of this device depends on the design and age of engine.<span> </span>On many modern overhead cam shaft engines the cam shaft sensor is located either on the end, or to the side of the end, of the cam shaft housing.<span> </span>On older pushrod engines the cam sensor is found where the distributor would once have been located.<span> </span>This type sensor assembly makes use of the distributor shaft meshing directly, at its bottom end, with a gear on the cam within the engine block.<span> </span>In this respect the distributor shaft is just an extension of the cam shaft.<span> </span>On the top end of this distributor shaft is a magnetic armature.<span> </span>The cam shaft sensor, that measures the movement of this armature, is located in the cover and uses either magnetic or 'Hall effect' pickup modules.<span> </span></span><br /> <p><b><span> </span></b><br /> <p><b><span>How does it work?</span></b><span><span> </span>The sensor detects the position of a magnet or set of teeth on the gear on the end of the cam.<span> </span>An electrical waveform output signal is sent to the ECU as the cam turns.<span> </span>The cam sensor tells the ECU that cylinder 1 is at TDC on its compression stroke prior to ignition. <span> </span>The cam sensor ensures the correct timing of the fuel injection cycle.<span> </span>If the timing belt ever jumps a tooth on the cam the lack of agreement between the respective signals from the cam and crank sensors is indicated as an error condition by the ECU. </span><br /> <p><b><u><span><span> </span></span></u></b><br /> <p><b><u><span>Symptoms of faulty cam sensor</span></u></b><br /> <p><b><span>Associated OBD2 error codes DTCs: <span> </span>P0341 - P0349; P1345</span></b><br /> <p><b><span> </span></b><br /> <ul> <li><b><span>Hesitant acceleration - </span></b><span>miss-timing of fuel injection due to a faulty CMP can cause intermittent loss of power.<b></b></span></li> <li><b><span>Starting difficulty/failure.<span> </span></span></b><span>If the faulty CMP timing problems are severe they may cause the engine not fire at all, or to fire and then stall, or stall at some random time without warning.<b></b></span></li> <li><b><span>Hot engine stall and failure to restart - </span></b><span>Sometimes the fault of the CSS only manifests itself when the engine is hot.<span> </span>Over time thermal stress can cause cracking and can weaken electrical junctions within the CMP.<span> </span>The CMP may work well at cold start up but can then cause a hot running engine to stop with little chance of restart whilst the engine is still hot;<span> </span>once cooled the down the engine may readily restart and again run for a limited period until hot.</span></li></ul> <p><b><u><span>Note </span></u></b><span>The cam sensor body often protrudes into the cam shaft gallery and when it's 'o' ring seal<span> </span>becomes age hardened, engine oil may leak back into the sensor electrical socket plug connector causing errors due to interruption of signal. </span><br /> <p><b><span> </span></b><br /> <p><b><span>How to check? </span></b><span>It is not technically<b> </b>easy<b> </b>to determine that the CMP is at fault and, like the crank sensor, may require the use of an oscilloscope.<span> </span>If it is part of a sophisticated on board diagnostics system its failure may be logged as a specific error code in the ECU. Due to the variability problems with engine running are often experienced well before any error codes are set by the ECU.</span><br /> <p><span> </span><br /> <p><span><span> </span>2 pin socket (magnetic - sine wave output).<span> </span>One pin is 'ground' the other is 'signal'.<span> </span>A voltmeter set to 2 volts AC should measure a signal in the 0.2 to 2 volts range on the 'signal' pin.</span><br /> <p><span><span> </span>3 pin socket (Hall effect, magneto - square wave form output).<span> </span>One pin is 'reference' (5volts), one pin is 'ground' and the third pin is 'signal'.<span> </span>A DC voltage should be detectable in the 0.5 to 1.5 volt range from the 'signal' pin.</span><br /> <p><span>It is important that the voltage measurement take place at start up when the engine is cold and again, 20 minutes later, when the engine has fully warmed up to operating temperature. Often the voltage output from faulty sensors declines with temperature rise.</span><br /> <p><span> </span><br /> <p><b><span>How to fix?<span> </span></span></b><span>If the CMP failure is due oil leakage into the electrical connector then a thorough clean and a renewal of the oil seal on the CMP may correct the situation.<span> </span>It can be a wise precaution to change the connecting cable as oil migration beneath the insulation may possibly contaminate components at some distance to the CMP.<span> </span></span><br /> <p><span>If the CMP has an internal fault then it must be replaced.</span><br />
0helpful
1answer

Car stalled then cut off and will not start I have an Oldsmobile auroras 2002

run the fault codes
check for cam / crank position sensor problem
check immobiliser operation
check that the cam shaft is turning(broken belt/chain)
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2002 gmc 2500 panel van......engine stalls....code was to change cam sensor....vehicle is fine after sensor is changed however after driving for a few hours , problem of stalling returns,cam sensor has...

Have the crank sensor checked, some times a generic scan tool or code reader will pull a code but list cam sensor and then when code is read with a gm tool it reads crank sensor, can you give me the code #?
you may also have a wiring problem to cam sensor or faulty ecm or bcm. ( computer) engine control module) good day
but still have the crank tested ,good day
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2004 chrysler sebring 2.4l dohc.

Have you ever replaced the timing belt?? If not the problem is likely to be a loose worn out timing belt. A floppy belt will play havoc with the sensor signals and trigger a check engine light and a camshaft sensor code.
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My 1998 Dodge Intrepid is starting & then stalling only after a few seconds. The engine light came on, & the code was P1391. Any ideas?

That code is indicating an intermittant crank shaft or cam shaft sensor fault. Because the engine is starting then stalling, check to see if you have spark after the stall. If spark is still present, you are probobley looking at a cam sensor circuit issue. The cam sensor controls the fuel injector pulse. If the cam sensor fails on a chrysler product, the fuel injectors will not function.
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Car would not start, after siiting for an hour it did start .

mcdevito75 here, BEST BET, let the shop do this work, too many un forseen problems could come up. The stalling and unable to start for a while could also be a bad ignition module, no test for this part, but I would have it changed, for if it is a bad ignition module, all this other work will not fix the stalling and later start of your car.
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2003 Jeep Liberty Stalls

thats correct, may have bad ecm (computer) or bad wire to crank sensor from ecm, also ive run into this problem and it was the new sensor i put in was no good and aftermarket,also cam sensor can do this, and also make sure the 5 volt feed wire is good,good luck hope this helps.
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I replaced the Cam Shaft Sensor. I also cleaned the Throttle Body with carb cleaner. I had my wife hold down the accelerator, while running I sprayed down the throttle plate and the entire area around it. Now my TB finally idles smoothly, and it hasn't died yet!! Check engine light is gone and I passed the emissions test!! Yea!!!
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